ps with the 1j trans with the 4:10 rear gear
work's really well with the 4:30 diff with slightly over sized tire
work's really well with the 4:30 diff with slightly over sized tire
The new build! Ultimate 10 second street car!
- Thread starter Devin LeBlanc
- Start date
^ WINNING!
Thought I would just post some pics of the previous cars we have done cages in. These are just a few of them, Mine will be the first supra but I think we've got it covered!
The Cage in our Formula Drift S14 (Full FD Legal cage with Nascar door bars)
Customers RX7FC (full FD Legal cage)
1JZ powered Cressida (Jungle Gym Cage)
Our Shop Car (Full FD Legal cage with Nascar bars)
S13 Hatch (Full FD legal cage with regular X style door bars)
Bolt in Half cage in a Porsche 911
Full cage in a Porsche 944
Enjoy!
Thought I would just post some pics of the previous cars we have done cages in. These are just a few of them, Mine will be the first supra but I think we've got it covered!
The Cage in our Formula Drift S14 (Full FD Legal cage with Nascar door bars)
Customers RX7FC (full FD Legal cage)
1JZ powered Cressida (Jungle Gym Cage)
Our Shop Car (Full FD Legal cage with Nascar bars)
S13 Hatch (Full FD legal cage with regular X style door bars)
Bolt in Half cage in a Porsche 911
Full cage in a Porsche 944
Enjoy!
Well looks like the JE High comp pistons and Eagle rods will be here Thursday! Then beginning first off with checking the p2w otherwise off to the machine shop with a new block. Everything is here other than the oil drain and feed flanges and the injectors..
I agree, Im still trying to decide if Im going to do a full cage or just a drag style cage, Half cage with a single door bar on each side.. All depends if I want to cut into the dash.
post videos asap of the new setup when done and tuned and up and running! wanna see some pulls in this bad boy!
Well got some stuff in today.
JE FSR 9.0:1 83.5mm Pistons
Eagle H Beam Rods
JE Chromoly ring set
JE calls for a .004 minimum piston to wall clearance for the size bore the 7M is. Then it says for Turbo, Super charger or Nitrous add on .001-.003 thousands of clearance on top. So .005 to .007 is what I want to be at. Pulled out the micrometers and bore gauge and measured up .006 on the 0. I'm really glad I don't have to start off with a new block! Planning on starting assembly and blue printing tomorrow night!
All I'm missing now is the injectors and in it goes for all the intercooler piping and exhaust to be fabbed up and welded! Should have it done in a week!
JE FSR 9.0:1 83.5mm Pistons
Eagle H Beam Rods
JE Chromoly ring set
JE calls for a .004 minimum piston to wall clearance for the size bore the 7M is. Then it says for Turbo, Super charger or Nitrous add on .001-.003 thousands of clearance on top. So .005 to .007 is what I want to be at. Pulled out the micrometers and bore gauge and measured up .006 on the 0. I'm really glad I don't have to start off with a new block! Planning on starting assembly and blue printing tomorrow night!
All I'm missing now is the injectors and in it goes for all the intercooler piping and exhaust to be fabbed up and welded! Should have it done in a week!
Got a few things done today. Spent a little over an hour cleaning the block. Every oil passage galley plug was removed, then a bristle brush was used with brake cleaner until I was happy with the results. Then the oil passages and galleys were flushed with water. After cleaning the internal block and exterior surface the block was blow dried with compressed air. The cylinder walls were dried and cleaned repeatedly with ATF until the crosshatching had no stone material or dirt present. A final wipe down of the cylinder walls and deck surface finished off the cleaning process to keep the rust off the newly machined surfaces. Until final assembly takes place.
Tomorrow I will clean the crank with the same process and remove all the oil passage plugs and brush through until clean. Then into the clean room to start checking clearances with a micrometer and bore gauge. This motor is going together fully blue printed and built to race spec.
Will slip fit the wrist pins in the pistons and rods, Balance, clean and start assembly tomorrow! Calling it a night, Friday. Party time, hopefully not to hung over to commence work tomorrow morning
Updates to follow!
Tomorrow I will clean the crank with the same process and remove all the oil passage plugs and brush through until clean. Then into the clean room to start checking clearances with a micrometer and bore gauge. This motor is going together fully blue printed and built to race spec.
Will slip fit the wrist pins in the pistons and rods, Balance, clean and start assembly tomorrow! Calling it a night, Friday. Party time, hopefully not to hung over to commence work tomorrow morning
Updates to follow!
Update time... Just got home from the shop.
Bottom end rotating assembly is all together. Oil pump and oil pump driveshaft is installed. All Oil galley plugs and block offs are sealed and installed. Plan for tomorrow is pull apart the head, clean it, and re assemble. Double check lash so its ready to be installed. Going to clean up the Front cover and put it on followed by the head. Then Ill pull it off the stand and install the rear main seal housing and put it back on the stand to put the oil pan on. Slap the valve covers on and will pretty much be done with the long block.
Main bearing clearance .002
Rod bearing clearance .0025
Crank thrust clearance .006
Oil pump drive shaft bearing clearance .002
Oil Ring gap .018
2nd Ring gap .021
1st Ring gap .018
P2W Clearance .005
Piston to Deck Height .011 Positive
Piston to Deck Rock Height .022
Main Bolt @ 75 ft lbs (oil)
Rod Bolts @ 45ft lbs (ARP)
Continued tomorrow with Head clearances and Piston to valve ect.
Thanks,
Devin
Bottom end rotating assembly is all together. Oil pump and oil pump driveshaft is installed. All Oil galley plugs and block offs are sealed and installed. Plan for tomorrow is pull apart the head, clean it, and re assemble. Double check lash so its ready to be installed. Going to clean up the Front cover and put it on followed by the head. Then Ill pull it off the stand and install the rear main seal housing and put it back on the stand to put the oil pan on. Slap the valve covers on and will pretty much be done with the long block.
Main bearing clearance .002
Rod bearing clearance .0025
Crank thrust clearance .006
Oil pump drive shaft bearing clearance .002
Oil Ring gap .018
2nd Ring gap .021
1st Ring gap .018
P2W Clearance .005
Piston to Deck Height .011 Positive
Piston to Deck Rock Height .022
Main Bolt @ 75 ft lbs (oil)
Rod Bolts @ 45ft lbs (ARP)
Continued tomorrow with Head clearances and Piston to valve ect.
Thanks,
Devin
Same ring gaps i used and that was with your formula IJ. With E85 wouldent you want to gap them a little different?
4 thou per inch of bore top, 5 thou second, as this is going to be well over 500rwhp I add 4 thou to the figures above.
Have nipped up a 7M in the past trying to run 4/5 at high load.
Have nipped up a 7M in the past trying to run 4/5 at high load.
My calculations assuming the block is bored .020 over and what Ian said, the gaps should be
First Ring - .026
Second Ring - .029
I am assuming the bore is 83.5MM (3.287402 in) which is what .020 are but obviously, he will have to verify that with his bore gauge and convert to inches.
First Ring - .026
Second Ring - .029
I am assuming the bore is 83.5MM (3.287402 in) which is what .020 are but obviously, he will have to verify that with his bore gauge and convert to inches.
The bore is 3.2874. With that being said I went by the sheet that came with my pistons and JE Rings. I called them to verify it and they said that the ring gap would be fine for the level of power I wanted to be at.
I went with the Circle Track/Drag race which is Bore x .0055 for the top ring and bore x .0057 for the 2nd and a minimum of .015 for the oil.
So for a 3.2874 inch bore
Top ring: .0180
2nd Ring: .0187
I went with top at .018 and the 2nd at .021 (I always go 2-3 thou bigger on the 2nd ring) I ran a tad bigger ring gap on a 4G63 that's running 52 PSI of boost and made 848 HP to all 4 wheels. With near a 1000HP @ the crank shaft. This is with a 86mm Bore. We have had no problems with that motor to this day.
I went with the Circle Track/Drag race which is Bore x .0055 for the top ring and bore x .0057 for the 2nd and a minimum of .015 for the oil.
So for a 3.2874 inch bore
Top ring: .0180
2nd Ring: .0187
I went with top at .018 and the 2nd at .021 (I always go 2-3 thou bigger on the 2nd ring) I ran a tad bigger ring gap on a 4G63 that's running 52 PSI of boost and made 848 HP to all 4 wheels. With near a 1000HP @ the crank shaft. This is with a 86mm Bore. We have had no problems with that motor to this day.
I understand cooler cylinder temps but there will be thermal expansion and then factor in 1/4 passes right after one another, it's safer this way.
You might get some blow by but that happens in all performance motors when the gaps are widened to run high boost and make big numbers.
Blow By? My catch cans help that.
You might get some blow by but that happens in all performance motors when the gaps are widened to run high boost and make big numbers.
Blow By? My catch cans help that.
I've never had blow by in any motors I've put together. And I've never had any problems with cylinder scoring due to the ring gap being to tight. The 4G63 has a tad bit of blow by on cold start but once warm it goes away completely. We made 50 dyno pulls with it at 48+ PSI.