The Luxocruiser 3650 lb sled thread

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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So, for a while I will be doing things that are more maintenance and support. One TEMS shock leaks, and they are original. They have to go. I might do the Tokiko Illumina 2, since I Tokiko makes a bunch of OEM shocks for Toyota anyway. They are a bit stiffer than stock from what I have read. One wheel bearing has a little bit of up and down play, so I will do all of them together. Pricey, but needed to maintain the car like new.

I also have the timing belt and tensioner with pulley. I believe the pulley to be noisey based on my stethescope. I will be doing the front crank and oil pump seal at the same time. As well as the cam seals. The rear main will get replaced when I do the IPT trans. Along with the oil pan gasket which is seaping lightly. Getting old sucks.

The radio that came in the car is unsat. I will get an Alpine with aux input for my ipod. I don't need the USB. I want to get my seats redone like some here have, with the original gray on the inside, and the outer portion of the seat in the shadow gray interior. That and various pieces of interior trim that are cracked/broken/missing. The door lock solenoids are also sticky. If I splurge on the theft enhancement system Champion says they have, I will do it with the solenoids.

Maintenance items already done are OEM radiator, fan clutch, both hoses and t-stat. The 3 drive belts including A/C. I replaced the leaking o-rings and the drier and have A/C again. So now Mrs M doesn't mind riding. I sourced a longer vacuum line to go under the heat shield instead of over or around. The previous owner put the shield in because of the K&N, and didn't change to a longer line. That is more cosmetic than anything. I also replaced the original accordian hose with a new unit from Toyota. I did the plugs and wires about 10k miles ago, OEM parts including wire holders.

The completed mods are the Boss Jr in 57 trim. The 1UZFE Meter from SupraSport and RC 550 injectors for management, but need the MKIV pump. I ditched the stock compressor bypass valve which as far as I know was working, but didn't need to push it with the bigger turbo. I have the heavy duty Bosch bypass valve for Saab, as so many others do. I have the LIPP elbow, HKS downpipe, main cat, and a geniune HKS turbo exhaust in 75 mm. It is quiet, but slightly deep drone under light load without opening the throttle. Perfectly acceptable. While winter and bad weather are actually a few months away, I am planning for it and the maintenance needs. Along with the pump and wiring a second resistor in parallel to keep the amps correct. 3.14's idea on that one.

Here it is, in all its glory.
 
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Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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Today I did unnecessary maintance that is an upgrade. I changed out the Halogen headlamps for a new super white bright light. And suprisingly, it was actually whiter while not being a tinted light like the gay blue ones. I am not sure how they do it, other than it isn't a standard incandesent bulb. The lights on my Snap On box looked like sun light. Now they look like an HID (high intensity gas discharge) is on them. Maybe tomorow I will get tires. I have been holding out because I want MKIV fronts all the way around with 245/40's. But my tires suck real bad. The previous owner bought H rated before I bought them, and they just suck.

whitemike;1614323 said:
Very nice ;)

Thanks.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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I am now dealing with the aspect of a 20 year old car. My new Toyota radiator from NipponDenso, manufactured now in China instead of Japan leaks from the top core. I should say seeping. Poor construction. You know I am a capitalist, yet I would rather have a UAW product than one from China at a discount.

My dash lights came on while running. I put the DVOM on the battery and got 12.45 running. I wiggled the alternator wiring and the idle bumped. I rechecked voltage and got 14.4. I pull the plastic cover and find corroded wiring and a rusted stud. I break the stud, on purpose. And I cut the wiring about a foot from the stud and spliced in a harness form a Camry in the junkyard.

Toyota wants way too much for the rectifier. I might buy it online from a supplier, since it is a part used on many cars, including non Toyotas.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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Maintenance.

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The car was charging, even in this bad of condition. Just not good. And then the nut was froze the rectifier, and the stud on it broke. I found it online. Toyota seems to have corrected their $400 price, back to $120. So I changed it and the brushes as long as it was off. Now it charges 14.6, which is pretty good considering winter and battery age.

Now the pulsation damper leaks fuel from the body. I saw the leak, popped the cap and the screw was loose and to the side. I tightened it, but it isn't actualy servicable. It still leaked after resintalling the screw. I ordered a new one with gaskets.
 
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Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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I ordered the discontinued Profec B spec 2 in black. Silver is ugly and doesn't match the interior. I might retest at about 13 psi assuming it can hold it. It did 255 at 10.1 psi on a Mustang loaded dyno. I also trapped 102 at that boost level with Boss Jr. That is 4 mph faster than the CT26 was at 13 psi.

The profec B in black has arrived in the Stl @ 10:49 PM. I will have something to do for a little bit tomorow. The roads have cleared up here with a few days in the upper 30's and sun. :)
 
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Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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I put the profec under the radio in the little cubby hole that goes with aftermarket radios. A little piece of 3M two sided tape holds it nicely. I drilled two holes in the back, and ran the wires under the dash to an existing hole that comes out under the booster. I am probably not the first.

The harness is secured with the large wiring harness and zip ties. I haven't decided where to pick up my ignition power source. I was thinking integrated into the EFI circuit that is powerd up after the EFI relay. The solenoid is mounted in a pre-existing hole from the charcoal canister. I used a longer bolt with a spacer to get over the ABS line.

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And this was the best $30.00 I ever spent on a go fast mod.

P1060587.JPG
 
Oct 11, 2005
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Nick, that drain hose failure you had back in July, any chance that was overheated rubber from super hot oil coming out of the turbo? IJ mentioned this can be an issue, and those hoses are likely only rated to 300F.
 
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Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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3p141592654;1693128 said:
Nick, that drain hose failure you had back in July, any chance that was overheated rubber from super hot oil coming out of the turbo? IJ mentioned this can be an issue, and those hoses are likely only rated to 300F.

I don't know. I took it to a local hose maker and he didn't think so. I was going to have him make another if I couldn't get what I wanted from SS. He said a hose like that should be no problem. More like just a random defect.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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I "street tuned" my Greddy Profec b spec 2. The Greddy manual is straight forward. I found a tuning guide from the DSM crowd online about safe baseline and went from there. I put it at 30%, and it was barely above the stock wastegate actuator. At 40% it went to about 12 psi. At 50 % it is about 14 psi and holding. I left it, and cranked up the gain and set gain a bit so it responds quicker. And I dropped off the car so the local dealer can install my tires and do the 4 wheel alignment. The rig is now ready for a drive to Vegas on May 1.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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SupraDreamPDR;1704361 said:
I enjoyed reading your thread. Good luck on your trip and happy modding.

Thanks.

Only a few mods left, but pricey. I am going to change the crummy 19 year old intercooler and hoses. And I really want to pick up that IPT Trans and valve body. With a torque converter, that will run about 4 grand. Fuel cut isn't worked out yet, nor is a tune which will not be agressive. The Lex meter of course extended fuel cut to somewhere. But now I am holding 14 psi with the Boss Jr 57. I laid down 250 rwhp at 5500 at 10.1 psi on a Mustang dyno. That is close to 300 on a dynojet. There is a dynojet down the road at a 4 x 4 shop. I might just go do my 3 pulls for X$.
 
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Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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I know this is very "riceish" but the tires look better. And it makes the stance look better. I installed an Alpine today. That makes me want to go get a small amp like the factory unit that isn't there.
 
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Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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86% relative humidity. I went anyway. 295.1 rwhp at 14 psi. And it is sitting at 294 at 6000 rpm. I like the Boss Jr. 311 torque.
 
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Oct 11, 2005
3,816
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Nice. I need to get mine out of the box and into the car. Does your Profec B tell you the AFM frequency? I am trying to get a better idea of how much slower the Lex AFM reads compared to the stock. Everyone says 25%, but I haven't seen any data to back it up.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,897
40
48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
3p141592654;1712949 said:
Nice. I need to get mine out of the box and into the car. Does your Profec B tell you the AFM frequency? I am trying to get a better idea of how much slower the Lex AFM reads compared to the stock. Everyone says 25%, but I haven't seen any data to back it up.

The profec B spec 2, I don't know if there is a Spec 1, is only a solenoid in series between the compressor and wastegate actuator. And the controller for the solenoid. So no, it doesn't monitor Hz.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,897
40
48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
3p141592654;1712949 said:
Nice. I need to get mine out of the box and into the car. Does your Profec B tell you the AFM frequency? I am trying to get a better idea of how much slower the Lex AFM reads compared to the stock. Everyone says 25%, but I haven't seen any data to back it up.

Speaking of the Profec, it displays in kpa. You can switch to PSI, but it doesn't have a decimal point. So 147 is 14.7 psi. Just so you know. 156 on the display is 15.6 psi.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,897
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48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
I cut a notch in the heat shield so I could reclock the water line that is too long. I didn't like it over the power steering resevoir, not that it hurt anything. Now the extra length is under the intake hose. Which is clearly visible, just not in this side shot.

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