The long Awaited SupraHero 1JayZ Build

suprahero

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927mgtepat said:
Not sure if anyone asked this yet, but i see in the first couple of pictures that it use to have the Turbo A duct. Do you have it?

I have it installed, but as you may have guessed, I haven't posted alot of pictures with it on. I have somewhere but I'll have to find them.

Here is one with it installed in my new bumper.
p562629_1.jpg


I'll have to take some good pictures once this pollen storm has gone.

I have not been getting on my car since I know it keeps flooding out. I"ve been driving without building boost just to get my clutch broke in. I would love to degree my cams.....................if I knew how. I thought that I could tune it on the dyno and adjust the cam gears that way. That's what I bought them for. I thought I would end up with the same results if I kept adjusting them over and over again. If this isn't true then someone tell me how to degree them. I've seen the video with the twins degreeing the MKIV, but I'm not sure that is enough to get me through the process. Any help or suggestions?

Lance, I've checked all of my couplings at least twice and I have no boost leaks, but like Aaron said, it wouldn't really matter that much. My car idles fine without even having my IC pipes installed. The problem is definately in my 624 injectors. I've got to either buy a new set of 540's or a set of 440's. I want a good set of 540's since the 440's limit my horsepower levels below what my turbo is capable of. I think a new set of 540's should work since alot of people install 550's with a resistor pack.

Thanks for all of the suggestions, but I'm still hoping for a little help with the cam degreeing. I wish Aaron and I had did that while he was down here, but we didn't so I"ll have to do some research on it. If any of you know where I can find some info, please send me a pm or post it up in here. Thanks, Jay
 

bigaaron

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Apr 12, 2005
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You can make adjustments by trial and error, but if it ended up at 7 degrees retarded, I think it was more error then trial. :biglaugh:

Here's an inexpensive degree wheel:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G1057&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Here's an explanation of how to do it:
http://www.enginelogics.com/camdegree.html

Cam degreeing kits:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400304+303168+115&autoview=sku

You can even print out a degree wheel on your printer and tape it to the crank, then use a paper clip as the indicator.
Then you just need a dial indicator whick you could probably get for under $20.
 

suprahero

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Thanks Aaron. I'll call them today and see if they have that kit in stock. I'll also read the how to when I get home from work. Looks like I have no more excuses not to degree them...................:icon_bigg

Matt, I did have them flowtested and found out that SARD isn't perfect like they would have you believe. They were all vey close to each other, but not close to what I ordered. Thanks
 

suprahero

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Yes, I have the Crower 272 small core cams. Why? You fixing to start making fun of them?...............:biglaugh:

You know I's be playing IJ..............are you about to offer me some seriously good advice on how to degree them?
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Was just wondering where you got the Specs to degree the stockies ;)!

No real advice other than go slowly and write things down!
(it's a tedious job at the best of times let alone doing it in a car)

Get a nice big degree wheel!
 

Rajunz

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Apr 5, 2005
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bigaaron said:
It's a 1jz so it is speed density, if he had a boost leak it just wouldn't make full boost. His problem is that it is bogging because of too much fuel..........................
I'm surely not trying to argue with you Aaron, just trying to help him sort it out. Thinking logically, what I said should still apply. Where is the airflow measured, it is still measured upstream of the injectors. I wouldn't think that it mattered how the air flow was measured, the ECU still gets an airflow reading and sends X amount of fuel to the injectors based on this reading. If you're losing the measured air, you're still getting full amount of fuel. Also, if what you're saying is correct, the A/R's would not instantly drop to 10's under boost. If the injectors were too big, Jay would have this problem throughout the rpm range, not just under boost...................Help me understand if I'm wrong here...................
 

bigaaron

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On a map based system the ecu is calculating air flow by measuring manifold absolute pressure and temperature. The pressure sensor is reading pressure right at the intake plenum. A boost leak in the ic piping would just mean less manifold pressure, so the fuel supply would not increase significantly with the decreased pressure, only if it was from tps enrichment. It might go a little rich but not like what Jay is experiencing, plus I know the injectors were too big from being there when it was being tuned. You can drive a 1jz around with no ic piping at all, it will be slow and it's probably not good for the turbo/s, but it doesn't just stall like a 7m.
 
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suprahero

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Well, I don't have an o2 sensor on it, but I don't know if that means anything or not...............:dunno:

If I can't get it leaned out at the dyno then I will buy some 440's, but last time it was running so rich that I had to keep changing my oil. For some reason since I had them flowtested and installed new orings on all of them, I have not had one ounce of fuel get into my block. I'm also running absolutely perfect except for when I start building boost. By perfect I mean my afr's is between 14 - 15 at all times. When Aaron was here it ran at 11.5 - 13.0 while just driving around. I am staying optimistic about being able to lean it out until I get to the dyno and see that it won't work. I'll definately keep you posted, and I really really really appreciate all of the suggestions and help that has been offered.............much love, Jay
 

tissimo

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Apr 5, 2005
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bigaaron said:
You do have an o2 sensor, the wideband's narrowband output is going to the input on the ecu.
is there something on the heater circut of the stock o2 sensor? It might be throwing off the ecu if its not connected?
 

bigaaron

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tissimo said:
is there something on the heater circut of the stock o2 sensor? It might be throwing off the ecu if its not connected?

Yes, Ricky brought over an old junk GM stereo and I unsoldered a resistor and used it to get rid of the o2 code, it was a like a MacGyver episode over there :biglaugh:
 

suprahero

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Thanks player. I'm hoping to get it tuned tomorrow if Blake can help me. If he can't then I"ll have to wait till he has more time. I'm going to try and get the cams dialed in without anyone trying to get me off of the dyno. Hopefully he has all day to work on it. I'll post up video if I get to go.............lol
 

JCP

The Big Unit
Apr 6, 2006
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1st of all lemme say this.. very very nice ride.. a very similar gt35r kit will be going on my 1jz with Brian Crower 264's.

I will make 1 suggestion.. rip all that piggyback stuff out.. sell it.. clean up the wires and buy you a standalone setup. AEM.. maybe stinger.. w/e but you could be at a much higher level with the proper tunable equipment.. not saying you cant get the job done with whats in there, but its a lot harder tuning wise and doesn't have the "potential" of a standalone.. just my 2, but hey I ain't hatin.. Great supra and good luck getting her dialed in!
 

suprahero

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What exactly do you mean by ............do my wife?.............With ten grand I could buy a standalone.............:biglaugh: