OMG in 20 posts the only 3 guys to get it are Johnathan and skim and the original poster.
ITS A BHG 100%
You dont have to have a milkshake in you oil cap or oil in your coolant. Most of the head gasket failures are from 5 or 6 blowing the firing ring into the water jacket on the exhaust side of the head.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. But I wil be very surprised if its not a BHG.
If you dont know how to change a head, cross your fingers the block isnt to corroded/pitted and start a pullin. Just use a cherry picker to lift that head out of there, unless your pretty burly and have a strong back.
Also heres more food for thought and a real good trick. If you catch (diagnose) a BHG right away.
It seems that BHG's go hand in hand with rod knock. As it was explained to me from an old timer, the ethylglycol (antifreeze) attacks the tin in the babbit and decreases the thickness of the rod and main bearings while it has time to sit stagnant in your motor. While you are pineing away on your BHG repair the very small amount of ethylglycol is eating away at your bearings.
Possible solution: Go get an oil change before you take the head off. Remove the head, and all related BHG requsite items, AND the front cover. Drain that fresh oil, put the oil pan bolt back on, refill more fresh oil thru the holes on the deck put 5 fresh quarts back in and a new oil filter. Now look at why you removed the front cover. That big pulley driven by the timing belt, that seems to spin relatively freely, is the oil pump drive pulley. put a 14mm socket on your rechargable drill and have your buddy plug the oil supply holes to the head and flush clean oil thru all the bearings.
Now you can sleep well knowing you did as much as you could possibly do to keep this motor from falling victom to the dreaded rod knock.
Oh wait the previous owner replaced the radiator?!?!
Forget everything I just said and pull the whole motor and change the bearings while your doing the BHG. Read the TSRM on bearing sizes you will be glad you did, The crank is marked with the proper sizes to put in the motor. It seems Toyota sized this motor with the bearings. They stamped the crank lobes (between 3 and 4) with the bearing oversize number 1-5.
You do not have to remove the crank from the block or even disturb the main seals. If you want to know how just let me know. However removing the oil pan while the motor is in the vehicle is just about impossible, People said they have done it but I call BS.
ITS A BHG 100%
You dont have to have a milkshake in you oil cap or oil in your coolant. Most of the head gasket failures are from 5 or 6 blowing the firing ring into the water jacket on the exhaust side of the head.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. But I wil be very surprised if its not a BHG.
If you dont know how to change a head, cross your fingers the block isnt to corroded/pitted and start a pullin. Just use a cherry picker to lift that head out of there, unless your pretty burly and have a strong back.
Also heres more food for thought and a real good trick. If you catch (diagnose) a BHG right away.
It seems that BHG's go hand in hand with rod knock. As it was explained to me from an old timer, the ethylglycol (antifreeze) attacks the tin in the babbit and decreases the thickness of the rod and main bearings while it has time to sit stagnant in your motor. While you are pineing away on your BHG repair the very small amount of ethylglycol is eating away at your bearings.
Possible solution: Go get an oil change before you take the head off. Remove the head, and all related BHG requsite items, AND the front cover. Drain that fresh oil, put the oil pan bolt back on, refill more fresh oil thru the holes on the deck put 5 fresh quarts back in and a new oil filter. Now look at why you removed the front cover. That big pulley driven by the timing belt, that seems to spin relatively freely, is the oil pump drive pulley. put a 14mm socket on your rechargable drill and have your buddy plug the oil supply holes to the head and flush clean oil thru all the bearings.
Now you can sleep well knowing you did as much as you could possibly do to keep this motor from falling victom to the dreaded rod knock.
Oh wait the previous owner replaced the radiator?!?!
Forget everything I just said and pull the whole motor and change the bearings while your doing the BHG. Read the TSRM on bearing sizes you will be glad you did, The crank is marked with the proper sizes to put in the motor. It seems Toyota sized this motor with the bearings. They stamped the crank lobes (between 3 and 4) with the bearing oversize number 1-5.
You do not have to remove the crank from the block or even disturb the main seals. If you want to know how just let me know. However removing the oil pan while the motor is in the vehicle is just about impossible, People said they have done it but I call BS.