SupraRon's Refreshment
- Thread starter SupraRon
- Start date
Yes you were and it helped me figure it out. Thanks again.
Yeah the harness is kinda beat up. I'm rewrapping where I can leaving the rest. I'm just so anxious to hear/see her run at this point. Esthetics will come 2nd.
Quick update: Got the DM clutch line installed. Its the 1 piece from the master to the slave. Also connected the fuel supply line. Just have to tighten it a bit more.
Left to do is fill fluids and install belts and dp. Should be able to turn it over by the weekend. :crosses fingers:
Yeah the harness is kinda beat up. I'm rewrapping where I can leaving the rest. I'm just so anxious to hear/see her run at this point. Esthetics will come 2nd.
Quick update: Got the DM clutch line installed. Its the 1 piece from the master to the slave. Also connected the fuel supply line. Just have to tighten it a bit more.
Left to do is fill fluids and install belts and dp. Should be able to turn it over by the weekend. :crosses fingers:
Some more minor progress. Got the clutch fluid in. Nice stiff pedal feel! Also, torqued the fuel supply line. It's all good. Had to relocate the coolant reservoir to the other side of the engine. Had to splice and lengthen the wire for it to reach the connector. Lastly, here are some pics of the relocated oil cooler, the lines I had to run for it, the new belts installed and the new clutch release cylinder and 1-piece DM clutch line.
Oil cooler mounted:
The oil cooler lines:
The new belts:
You can barely see the release cylinder. The line is obvious. I still need to tie it up and remove the old line:
---------- Post added at 09:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:18 PM ----------
All that is left: Get a lower rad hose as the stock one doesn't work with my IC pipes, fill motor oil, fill trans oil & fill the coolant. Also have to connect the ABS speed sensor. For some reason I forgot to connect that before I put the trans in place. Hopefully I don't have to loosen the trans mount to get it connected. Then I'll just close my eyes and cross my fingers and hope she turns over. Actually I'm not too worried about that so much as I'm worried about leaks. Wish me luck!
---------- Post added at 09:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:24 PM ----------
Every time I look at the photos I see another thing I forgot. This time it's the ground. You can see it in the last pic.
Also, torqued the fuel supply line. It's all good. Had to relocate the coolant reservoir to the other side of the engine. Had to splice and lengthen the wire for it to reach the connector. Lastly, here are some pics of the relocated oil cooler, the lines I had to run for it, the new belts installed and the new clutch release cylinder and 1-piece DM clutch line.Oil cooler mounted:
The oil cooler lines:
The new belts:
You can barely see the release cylinder. The line is obvious. I still need to tie it up and remove the old line:
---------- Post added at 09:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:18 PM ----------
All that is left: Get a lower rad hose as the stock one doesn't work with my IC pipes, fill motor oil, fill trans oil & fill the coolant. Also have to connect the ABS speed sensor. For some reason I forgot to connect that before I put the trans in place. Hopefully I don't have to loosen the trans mount to get it connected. Then I'll just close my eyes and cross my fingers and hope she turns over. Actually I'm not too worried about that so much as I'm worried about leaks. Wish me luck!
---------- Post added at 09:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:24 PM ----------
Every time I look at the photos I see another thing I forgot. This time it's the ground. You can see it in the last pic.
Looking good Ron. The harness doesn't look too shabby :naughty: I think building a new one is going to be my next project. Cant wait for a turnkey vid
GC89;1602126 said:
Thanks man. I would love to build a new one with a quick disconnect where it comes off the firewall on the driver side. It would make for engine swaps really easy. Man, I can't tell you how anxious I am to hear the engine turn over. Almost there. I'll be sure to post it up.
I have been contemplating putting a connection at the firewall but Im not sure what type of connector to use yet.
I was thinking a connector with the same amount of pins that there are wires in the harness. :dunno:
Well a not so good update. I got everything back together and all fluids topped up, tried to start the car and it turned over, however I hear a hissing sound. Take a look and there is fuel all by the back three injectors. Also, there is a coolant leak. I believe its coming from the water neck, but it's hard to tell without taking stuff out. So now I don't know if I can get this done before our annual meet. Argh!!
Well a not so good update. I got everything back together and all fluids topped up, tried to start the car and it turned over, however I hear a hissing sound. Take a look and there is fuel all by the back three injectors. Also, there is a coolant leak. I believe its coming from the water neck, but it's hard to tell without taking stuff out. So now I don't know if I can get this done before our annual meet. Argh!!
You can easily check for fuel leaks by shorting the fuel pump at the diagnostic block. (Fp>B+) I also ran into fuel leaks when I installed my 550's.
There are two ways to replace the Insulators and O'Rings. You did install new right?!
Way 1: Remove the TB...
Way 2: Leave the TB... (I chose this method)
Likely what happened is that the O'Rings and/or Insulators got boogered up upon install. It's not that hard to fix; but, you will need to replace the leaking ones with new.
That T-Stat housing can be pain to deal with...
There are two ways to replace the Insulators and O'Rings. You did install new right?!
Way 1: Remove the TB...
Way 2: Leave the TB... (I chose this method)
Likely what happened is that the O'Rings and/or Insulators got boogered up upon install. It's not that hard to fix; but, you will need to replace the leaking ones with new.
That T-Stat housing can be pain to deal with...
Thanks Ken. Well I don't think I need to short the fuel pump. I will start by installing new O rings and insulators. Yeah that's right I didn't install new ones. :nono: Rookie mistake! :facepalm:
I'm really not looking forward to that the T-stat housing. Well tomorrow is a new day and I plan to get this fixed. If I can't figure it out or find I don't have enough time, its going to the shop. I can't miss this meet!
I'm really not looking forward to that the T-stat housing. Well tomorrow is a new day and I plan to get this fixed. If I can't figure it out or find I don't have enough time, its going to the shop. I can't miss this meet!
Once you get all the new injector rubber replaced, short FP before you button it all back up.
When I did mine, I shorted the pump just after I installed the rail. I had a "Fuel Sprinkler" under my hood. Had I buttoned everything up then started the car, it could've been a much worse outcome!
How long before the meet?
When I did mine, I shorted the pump just after I installed the rail. I had a "Fuel Sprinkler" under my hood. Had I buttoned everything up then started the car, it could've been a much worse outcome!
How long before the meet?
SupraRon;1602409 said:
I figured this much lol, just havent found any I like. I am also going to see what sensors and wires I can ditch with the maft pro and ffim. I would love a connector similar to Rons but Im not sure where he got it, guess Ill have to ask next time I see him.
On shorting the fuel pump, there is a FP pin in the dia block jumper it with B+ to supply 12v to the pump and make it run thats what Ken means.
SupraRon;1602508 said:
Yeah, when I say "short the pump", I mean this...
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=71
Doing this will pressurize the fuel system without the car running. A muuuuuuch easier AND safer way to check for leaks. After you get the injectors back in, let the pump run while you check for leaks up top (injectors, fuel damper, fpr, etc...) and down low (banjo fittings, lower fuel lines, etc...).
You don't have to rush. It's ok to let the pump run for a few minutes while you check.
Oh, and you don't need an "SST". A paper clip or small piece of wire will work.
Cool. Was just curious how the fuel system worked, but thats a great method to check.
TODAY: I started to tackle the coolant leak. It appears I have 4 coolant leaks. One from the upper rad hose, another from the thermostat housing, another from the water pump and the last from the water neck at the block. I guess the clamp for the rad hose has lost its retention although I didn't have a leak before. The leak from the thermo housing is because the t-stat is moving around within the housing. I have a new gasket for that. The water pump didn't leak when it was on my other engine. I'm wondering if there's a difference between 89+ and pre-89, but I doubt it. Also, I used a new gasket so I'm not sure why its leaking. I'm gonna pull it off and compare with the one I got with this engine. I'll have to get a new gasket for that. As for the water neck, not sure why it's leaking, but that will be a tough one to troubleshoot. I guess I wasn't as precise as I thought I was when I assembled everything. Just for future reference is there any way to check for leaks when the engine is out of the car? This would've made things a lot easier.
TODAY: I started to tackle the coolant leak. It appears I have 4 coolant leaks. One from the upper rad hose, another from the thermostat housing, another from the water pump and the last from the water neck at the block. I guess the clamp for the rad hose has lost its retention although I didn't have a leak before. The leak from the thermo housing is because the t-stat is moving around within the housing. I have a new gasket for that. The water pump didn't leak when it was on my other engine. I'm wondering if there's a difference between 89+ and pre-89, but I doubt it. Also, I used a new gasket so I'm not sure why its leaking. I'm gonna pull it off and compare with the one I got with this engine. I'll have to get a new gasket for that. As for the water neck, not sure why it's leaking, but that will be a tough one to troubleshoot. I guess I wasn't as precise as I thought I was when I assembled everything. Just for future reference is there any way to check for leaks when the engine is out of the car? This would've made things a lot easier.
Big Update: Well today a friend and local supra owner came out to give me a hand. It appears that the water housing was corroded to one of the studs. That same stud was corroded to block. I had a spare one from the my old engine so Vic decided it was best to take the one off the new engine (by all means necessary). He first tried heat on the stud and the housing started to come out a little more, but was still hanging on. So he asked if we could hack into it and I said 'Please do'! Vic drilled into the housing above the stubborn stud and then right on top of it. By doing this the tip of the stud sticking out of the housing broke off and then with a little shimmying and prying it came off. Vic then cleaned up the contact at the block, installed a new gasket (which he brought with him) and then installed the spare housing I had. So now all the coolant leaks are taking off. While Vic was working on that I was working on removing the fuel rail. Got it out and examine the state of the rubber for the injectors. They weren't too bad, but some were a little brittle. I did however find 1 o-ring that was torn. So I replaced all the o-rings and the insulators that sit on the injectors bottom. 'm just waiting to hear back from Vic if he has some new top insulators at home. So barring any more major problems I should have this thing going in a couple days. Hopefully that will be enough time to road test her and get her prepped for the meet.
Here's a pic of the housing that Vic removed:
Here's a pic of the housing that Vic removed:
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Yuck Ron! Well, at least you're still moving forward. Don't forget to pressurize the rail after you get it installed...and...BEFORE you button her all back up!
Yeah it wasn't pretty Ken, but thankfully I had the spare so I wasn't too worried. Well I got the insulators from Vic, installed them, bolted the rail down and 'jumped the pump' Leak coming out of injector #3. The leak was coming from where the injector sits in the head. I couldn't figure why it would be leaking there. The rail and all injectors were seated properly. So I had to remove it all and take a close look at everything. It all looked good. I thought possibly the rail was bent or warped, but I couldn't see anything to prove that. Anyhow, I swapped #3 & #4 injectors, reinstalled the rail and the lines, jumped the pump and turned the ignition to the 'on' position. I did not see any further leaks. I hear a slight hissing sound, but imagine this is the fuel flowing into the head!? :dunno: I had to call it quits for the night there, but I will check again in the morning for leaks and if all is good, button everything up and try to start 'er up!
Leak coming out of injector #3. The leak was coming from where the injector sits in the head. I couldn't figure why it would be leaking there. The rail and all injectors were seated properly. So I had to remove it all and take a close look at everything. It all looked good. I thought possibly the rail was bent or warped, but I couldn't see anything to prove that. Anyhow, I swapped #3 & #4 injectors, reinstalled the rail and the lines, jumped the pump and turned the ignition to the 'on' position. I did not see any further leaks. I hear a slight hissing sound, but imagine this is the fuel flowing into the head!? :dunno: I had to call it quits for the night there, but I will check again in the morning for leaks and if all is good, button everything up and try to start 'er up!