Supercharger on a 7M
- Thread starter tubbie
- Start date
This is crazy! We need more pics and vids. How much boost is the SC and turbo going to be running? I have always wanted to twincharge a supra. I was thinking about getting a 1G-GZE and turboing it too. But its hard to tune, build, and maintain
I've looked everywhere, and I can't find any of my old pics! :3d_frown:
That's ok, I'll get plenty of pics when I go over the Ion :evil:
That's ok, I'll get plenty of pics when I go over the Ion :evil:
very cool. i would pay your nephew to weld ANYTHING i ever needed! hes a talented fabricator, kudos to him!
i hope to take on a project soon that involves multiple air compressors for the 7M
that blower is an M90 right, same as the Thunderbird Supercoupes? those are rated for something like 360hp IIRC. that setup looks like its compounded. i couldnt see any switching valves/butterflies.
he will probably have to keep it at stock boost since the stock belt doesnt have enough ribs to fully engage the blower pulley. also, the stock pulley may be good for stock boost IF and only IF the 7M crank pulley is the SAME diameter as the 3.8 V6 pulley. did he get measurements for the stock 3.8 crank pully to compare against the 7M to figure out a ballpart blower-only boost pressure?
i hope to take on a project soon that involves multiple air compressors for the 7M
that blower is an M90 right, same as the Thunderbird Supercoupes? those are rated for something like 360hp IIRC. that setup looks like its compounded. i couldnt see any switching valves/butterflies.
he will probably have to keep it at stock boost since the stock belt doesnt have enough ribs to fully engage the blower pulley. also, the stock pulley may be good for stock boost IF and only IF the 7M crank pulley is the SAME diameter as the 3.8 V6 pulley. did he get measurements for the stock 3.8 crank pully to compare against the 7M to figure out a ballpart blower-only boost pressure?
UPDATE:
He finally took the engine out. He's making a new manifold, this time cutting the intake runners shorter so that the SC will be even closer to the engine. The way it is now, you can't install the SC without taking out the engine or head. Here is the picture of the intake manifold for the SC. There is a plate (not pictured) that covers up the holes for cylinder 1 and 2, so that the air gets distributed more evenly to all the cylinders.
He finally took the engine out. He's making a new manifold, this time cutting the intake runners shorter so that the SC will be even closer to the engine. The way it is now, you can't install the SC without taking out the engine or head. Here is the picture of the intake manifold for the SC. There is a plate (not pictured) that covers up the holes for cylinder 1 and 2, so that the air gets distributed more evenly to all the cylinders.
since he is mounting the s/c on the intake manifold, he should really using a phenolic plastic (aka hondata intake manifold gasket) as a gasket. this will minimize the heat soak effect from mounting it on the intake manifold. it has been proven on a N/A honda you can gain 8hp from a gasket. Imagine the amount of heat that s/c creates and now mounting it on the intake manifold. trust me, take my advice, your going to need it for efficiency sake.
tuning is going to be hard? I keep hearing this, and I have only heard one person say what should be done. and it's easy people. you have a valve that disengages the s/c when the turbo hits 1 psi or whatever you designate. this is what was done on the twin-charged svt truck that i worked on. i designed the valve myself for god sakes. the transition is smooth having power from just after dead idle all the way to 6800 on that svt. while a compound twin-charge setup works, it is not efficient and puts a lot of strain on the supercharger. you must make the setup sequential like a mkiv. the #1 turbo is your supercharger and then the #2 turbo is your actual turbo that you have designated to take you all the way to redline, cause we all know why. the aem unit is more than capable of handling this transition.
tuning is going to be hard? I keep hearing this, and I have only heard one person say what should be done. and it's easy people. you have a valve that disengages the s/c when the turbo hits 1 psi or whatever you designate. this is what was done on the twin-charged svt truck that i worked on. i designed the valve myself for god sakes. the transition is smooth having power from just after dead idle all the way to 6800 on that svt. while a compound twin-charge setup works, it is not efficient and puts a lot of strain on the supercharger. you must make the setup sequential like a mkiv. the #1 turbo is your supercharger and then the #2 turbo is your actual turbo that you have designated to take you all the way to redline, cause we all know why. the aem unit is more than capable of handling this transition.
It seems like a great idea for eliminating the lag of big turbos. Why haven't more Mk4 guys attempted something like this, given the $$ they throw into their cars?
tekdeus;903994 said:
A few have, there is a big thread on this over on SF and people have mixed feelings on it. It is must easier to bolt a GTxx series turbo and tune than doing this. But then again, your hard work pays off because you wont have any lag.
IJ.;904014 said:One backfire and they're history....
Just tune without it, then add it after the tune. Then tune with it if A/F'rs are off, which they wont be by much at all.
This thread is awesome.
If some day a 35R wont cut it for me, I'm definitely doing this with a 45R
If some day a 35R wont cut it for me, I'm definitely doing this with a 45R