Stinger thread....

[Pharnhyte]

Thanks for the help so far guys, I just changed my settings for starting to the stock settings, and it starts up on the first try. The last issue that I am having now is that it idles at 550~or so... I set the idle control to manual and it put it at 850, but no change in idle lol....

Any ideas?

 

[turbo joe]

Thanks for the help so far guys, I just changed my settings for starting to the stock settings, and it starts up on the first try. The last issue that I am having now is that it idles at 550~or so... I set the idle control to manual and it put it at 850, but no change in idle lol....

Any ideas?

You have to play around with the base duty cycle until you can manually control the valve. Just sweep it up (or down) a bit until the idle increases.

 

[Pharnhyte]

You have to play around with the base duty cycle until you can manually control the valve. Just sweep it up (or down) a bit until the idle increases.

Alright I understand that totally, the car now idles fine when it warms up a bit, and when I start it after its been running for awhile.

The only thing that I cant get for the life of me is the cold start. The only way that it will stay on is if I keep my foot on the gas for like twenty seconds or so, or if the car is already warmed up.

The only thing I have touched is on the ECU setup screen, I have the cold start percentage at 55% I think. I don't know if thats to low or to high, and I have no idea what else I need to mess with, so if anyone knows that would be great



Thank you

 

[gravesdu_99]

Hey guys, I'm trying to get my supra running and I need help right from the start. I can't get the stinger to connect to my computer. When I say that I mean that I can't get the stinger online. I had to buy a serial to usb cable to connect the stinger to my computer. I don't know if this is my problem or not. Any help would be great. Thanks

 

[turbo joe]

Hey guys, I'm trying to get my supra running and I need help right from the start. I can't get the stinger to connect to my computer. When I say that I mean that I can't get the stinger online. I had to buy a serial to usb cable to connect the stinger to my computer. I don't know if this is my problem or not. Any help would be great. Thanks

When you use a USB/serial adapter, you have to figure out which "port" the computer is using, then select that port in the stinger software.

The way I locate it is to go to the Control Panel and "search for new hardware". The USB adapter will show up on one of the comm ports as a device.

 

[gravesdu_99]

thanks for the input. I've got it all figured out and the car started, but idles at 3000+ rpm. But I have about 50lb of oil pressure and although my wideband was bouncing all around it didn't go above 15+ afr. I've got a lot of work cut out for me though. I wished there was someone in NY that could help me with this.

 

[Pharnhyte]

thanks for the input. I've got it all figured out and the car started, but idles at 3000+ rpm. But I have about 50lb of oil pressure and although my wideband was bouncing all around it didn't go above 15+ afr. I've got a lot of work cut out for me though. I wished there was someone in NY that could help me with this.

Same here. I think any decent tuner would be able to figure out your problems though, from what I have read, the Stinger is one of the easiest to tune.

 

[turbo joe]

I've said it a million times...and I'll probably be saying it a million more times.

STEP AWAY FROM THE LAMBDA GAUGE.



Really...

For one...The idle being too high has nothing to do with the ECU. There's too much air getting into the engine. Either the IAC is partially open, you have a vacuum leak or the throttle blade isn't closing properly.

Second...once you get the idle speed sorted, you just need to sweep the cells around where the engine is idling (a 4X4 or 6X6 block around the center will work fine) up and down until the engine idles the best, regardless of what the lambda says.

 

[gravesdu_99]

I've said it a million times...and I'll probably be saying it a million more times.

STEP AWAY FROM THE LAMBDA GAUGE.



Really...

For one...The idle being too high has nothing to do with the ECU. There's too much air getting into the engine. Either the IAC is partially open, you have a vacuum leak or the throttle blade isn't closing properly.

Second...once you get the idle speed sorted, you just need to sweep the cells around where the engine is idling (a 4X4 or 6X6 block around the center will work fine) up and down until the engine idles the best, regardless of what the lambda says.

Yeah I still have some vaccum ports open. And I just wanted to keep track with the wideband, because it makes me feel safe inside. What is the IAC that you are talking about(Pics would help if you don't mind). And I talked to aaron about the cell thing but I didn't really understand it. This is my first motor swap that I have done all by myself, so I feel good that it acutally started first try.

 

[turbo joe]

Yeah I still have some vaccum ports open.

That's most likely why your idle is too high.

And I just wanted to keep track with the wideband, because it makes me feel safe inside.

The motor would quit running long before you could hurt it. Really, at anywhere less than full throttle, a lambda sensor is close to useless as a tuning tool...even at full throttle, it has only limited use without a dyno. If you make the car drive nicely (good throttle response, no smoking or stumbling/popping), you MUST be very near the correct air-fuel ratio...otherwise it wouldn't drive correctly.

What is the IAC that you are talking about(Pics would help if you don't mind). And I talked to aaron about the cell thing but I didn't really understand it. This is my first motor swap that I have done all by myself, so I feel good that it acutally started first try.

It's the "Idle Air Controller". It's the computer-controlled valve that your original ECU used to keep the idle at the proper speed for every condition. It allows air to go around the throttle blade.

The IAC on your car is basically an electric motor with a valve on the end. It's like a garden hose valve only faster...with the electric motor replacing your hand. If it was partially open when you disconnected the stock ECU, it won't close automatically on its own, you have to make it close by turning the motor on and forcing it to close. I'm pretty sure there's a diagram of the terminals in this forum somewhere. If I were you, I would get all the vacuum leaks fixed first and see where you're at...don't worry about it if you don't need to.

 

[suprahero]

^Why can't you live in the center of the States, and that way we could all drive to your house and you could cook us all a steak and tune our cars while we ate?..............:biglaugh:

I apologize for the fantasy world I live in sometimes.

 

[turbo joe]

I work pretty cheap...LOL...and I like to travel.

 

[suprahero]

I work pretty cheap...LOL...and I like to travel.

Dont' put it pass me. I've already flown Big Aaron out here once............:biglaugh:

 

[rakkasan]

Dont' put it pass me. I've already flown Big Aaron out here once............:biglaugh:

LOL, I sent my car TO him.....from Florida

 

[suprahero]

I say why go to Rome, when you can have Rome come to you?.........:biglaugh:

 

[turbo joe]

Yep...most of the time, it's cheaper to fly a person out than it is to ferry a car out for sure...at least for some tuning. :biglaugh:

 

[gravesdu_99]

Yep...most of the time, it's cheaper to fly a person out than it is to ferry a car out for sure...at least for some tuning. :biglaugh:

I might just take you up on an offer like that. I need to get my intercooler piping welded up and finish my downpipe first. I fixed all the vaccum leaks and now the car idles at about 900rpm.

 

[Bigzavs]

i currently have the map that rakkasan sent me for 550s, ive upgraded to 850 top feeds, how do i need to adjust the fuel on the 550 map to get it to work on the 850s?

 

[turbo joe]

I would just do a 35% negative fuel trim...since the injectors are about 35% larger. That should get you in the ballpark.

 

[gravesdu_99]

One more conversion from the master. I have some 682cc injectors. I figured that I would have to go -55% on the fuel trip percentage from marks 440cc injectors. Is this correct.