Stinger thread....
- Thread starter rakkasan
- Start date
Did you wire your tach directly into the Stinger tach wire? I've been trying to get my tach to work since I went to stinger....10secdream;1054337 said:
LOL, ass :sarcasm:bigaaron;1054426 said:
Regarding this has made me realize, I have a few things to share.
My tach seems to be a little "low" on the reading side. When I'm doing 7,800rpm my tacho is only reading slightly more than 7,000rpm. Maybe I need to find a higher or lower resistance resistor. Haven’t tested yet.
As for idle control - the stinger has no way to control the stepper motor ICV we use so the tuner in NZ who deals with these a lot adjusted my idle screw all the way out, and adjusted the fuel and ignition maps so the idle would settle down. When warm it hunts which is fine by me because it means cold start is mint! Problem solved!
As for the ignitor and coil side of things. Aaron don't take this the wrong way, you know I tried all I could but I never managed to get your diode matrix it to work. It annoyed the hell out of me as I believe it does work and should've for me. End of the day I used a V6 Mitsi wasted spark ignitor and 7M-GTE coils. Problem solved.
Fuel pump wiring as Aaron said is perfect! Works a treat
Oh yeah, the aux input. I have mine on a basic on/off switch. I don't have it on a single pole dual throw – I have used it for both “Two step rev limiter” and “Drag antilag”. When switched off, I’ve not had any problems with interference etc (that I’ve noticed)
I’m sure there’s other stuff I’m forgetting.....
My tach seems to be a little "low" on the reading side. When I'm doing 7,800rpm my tacho is only reading slightly more than 7,000rpm. Maybe I need to find a higher or lower resistance resistor. Haven’t tested yet.
As for idle control - the stinger has no way to control the stepper motor ICV we use so the tuner in NZ who deals with these a lot adjusted my idle screw all the way out, and adjusted the fuel and ignition maps so the idle would settle down. When warm it hunts which is fine by me because it means cold start is mint! Problem solved!
As for the ignitor and coil side of things. Aaron don't take this the wrong way, you know I tried all I could but I never managed to get your diode matrix it to work. It annoyed the hell out of me as I believe it does work and should've for me. End of the day I used a V6 Mitsi wasted spark ignitor and 7M-GTE coils. Problem solved.
Fuel pump wiring as Aaron said is perfect! Works a treat
Oh yeah, the aux input. I have mine on a basic on/off switch. I don't have it on a single pole dual throw – I have used it for both “Two step rev limiter” and “Drag antilag”. When switched off, I’ve not had any problems with interference etc (that I’ve noticed)
I’m sure there’s other stuff I’m forgetting.....
5uprahboy;1054603 said:Regarding this has made me realize, I have a few things to share.
My tach seems to be a little "low" on the reading side. When I'm doing 7,800rpm my tacho is only reading slightly more than 7,000rpm. Maybe I need to find a higher or lower resistance resistor. Haven’t tested yet.
As for idle control - the stinger has no way to control the stepper motor ICV we use so the tuner in NZ who deals with these a lot adjusted my idle screw all the way out, and adjusted the fuel and ignition maps so the idle would settle down. When warm it hunts which is fine by me because it means cold start is mint! Problem solved!
As for the ignitor and coil side of things. Aaron don't take this the wrong way, you know I tried all I could but I never managed to get your diode matrix it to work. It annoyed the hell out of me as I believe it does work and should've for me. End of the day I used a V6 Mitsi wasted spark ignitor and 7M-GTE coils. Problem solved.
Fuel pump wiring as Aaron said is perfect! Works a treat
Oh yeah, the aux input. I have mine on a basic on/off switch. I don't have it on a single pole dual throw – I have used it for both “Two step rev limiter” and “Drag antilag”. When switched off, I’ve not had any problems with interference etc (that I’ve noticed)
I’m sure there’s other stuff I’m forgetting.....
The diode circuit most assuredly works absolutely great, I had it on my own car and a few customer cars too. It is a lot more tricky to wire up as per the diagram then it looks in the diagram :icon_wink
As for the tach being off at 7800 rpm, that would probably not be the Stinger or the resistor circuit causing it. What are you comparing it to?
As for the tach output, if your tach is not working correctly, try using that circuit to have the Stinger drive the stock tach. It's a black wire in the small yellow connector above the glove box. Most of the gauge wiring runs through that connector. I didn't notice any problem with the 1jz igniter running the stock tach with a Stinger though.
bigaaron;1054821 said:
Yeah I know the diode circuit works. Hell I have no idea why it didn't work for me. I wired it perfectly. Maybe I had a bad batch of diodes lol.
Well the hard rev limit on the Stinger is set to 7800 (soft limit is for pansies :evil2
but when at the drags it would be hitting rev limiter when the stock tacho was reading about 7,400rpm. More a fair bit more than the "just over 7,000rpm" I had previously mentioned sorry.I'm using that stock tacho wire and the stinger to drive the tacho. Not the igniter's tach output (it wouldn't work for some reason - didn't troubleshoot as your "resister off the stinger output" trick :icon_razz).
So I was messing around with my Stinger EMS yesterday, trying to get it to run a bit leaner, because its black smoke all day. Well I realized that having a wideband would have been a good idea:nono:
So do I need just a wideband 02 sensor KIT like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-...007QQitemZ170230369558QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Or can I just buy a wideband sensor itself and hook it up through the Stinger?
I would like to learn how to tune the car myself, well actually I figured out how last night, but now I have to figure out the wideband side of it.
I am totally new to this EMS stuff, and I rather ask here then make a thread.
Or if anyone has a stock twins tune map that I can just download for now?
So do I need just a wideband 02 sensor KIT like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-...007QQitemZ170230369558QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Or can I just buy a wideband sensor itself and hook it up through the Stinger?
I would like to learn how to tune the car myself, well actually I figured out how last night, but now I have to figure out the wideband side of it.
I am totally new to this EMS stuff, and I rather ask here then make a thread.
Or if anyone has a stock twins tune map that I can just download for now?
You're better off getting on of these:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
I have a contact who "should" be able to get the LC1 for a good price, however she's in New Zealand so it'd require shipping from NZ to where-ever you are. I paid $350NZD for mine a while ago.
Great product, easy to use, easy to install, easy to set up, cheap and good quality.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php
I have a contact who "should" be able to get the LC1 for a good price, however she's in New Zealand so it'd require shipping from NZ to where-ever you are. I paid $350NZD for mine a while ago.
Great product, easy to use, easy to install, easy to set up, cheap and good quality.
I know my FAST can emulate a 1v sensor, so that should work fine as well. That's actually a fairly common feature.
bigaaron;1038391 said:
Aaron, where exactly are your maps at? I can't find them anywhere on your site. I am looking for a stock twin turbo tune basically lol
I spoke to you on the phone yesterday about a GT35 turbo kit lol
Anyone have a good map for 850 injectors?
I need to get running and I don't have a stock fuel rail to do the initial start with 370's
Thanks
I need to get running and I don't have a stock fuel rail to do the initial start with 370's
Thanks
garagefujimoto;1063764 said:
Why not just cut back the injector time scale to get the car started? Then you can adjust the map from there on.
Yeah I could.
I haven't really played with the program at all.
I suppose 850/370 = drop the values from 100 to 43%??
I haven't really played with the program at all.
I suppose 850/370 = drop the values from 100 to 43%??
I have my car running great now, changed the plugs pulls hard and it does not break up at all.
My only issue is cold starting, I have to give it gas in order for it to stay on, else it will stall about three times or so.
I have my Idle control valve thingy hooked up and I turned the Idle control off, what should I look at or adjust for cold starts?
Thanks
My only issue is cold starting, I have to give it gas in order for it to stay on, else it will stall about three times or so.
I have my Idle control valve thingy hooked up and I turned the Idle control off, what should I look at or adjust for cold starts?
Thanks
To control my cold start my using a 12V air solenoid valve on the rpm based aux output. It works very well.
Can somebody sketch a quick diagram of the other connection besides the harness?
I have some unconnected wires that aren't part of the plug, and I am also unsure of where the O2 sensor connects/
I have some unconnected wires that aren't part of the plug, and I am also unsure of where the O2 sensor connects/
Edit:
I found a diagram.
Please tell me if I'm wrong.
The ECU gets power through the engine harness, no extra wiring.
The white/white on O2 are +/-
The Black/Grey are to the grey/orange signal wires.
I found a diagram.
Please tell me if I'm wrong.
The ECU gets power through the engine harness, no extra wiring.
The white/white on O2 are +/-
The Black/Grey are to the grey/orange signal wires.
garagefujimoto;1066506 said:
That is correct. One white wire to 12V and the other to ground. Then just connect the signal wires according to the Stinger wiring diagram.