Stinger thread....

[10secdream]

Have any of you guys got the 2 step or the anti-lag to work? I have a switch with one end going to the yellow/black wire and the other end going to a 12V power source and it is not working. Am I doing something wrong? Also in the aux section I do have the 2 step activated but whenever I turn the switch on nothing happens.

 

[Pharnhyte]

I am picking up a 1jz car with a Stinger... wondering where to get software at? Cant to seem to find a stinger website


thanks
Steve

I am guessing it has an adjustable rev limit feature also?

 

[bigaaron]

Have any of you guys got the 2 step or the anti-lag to work? I have a switch with one end going to the yellow/black wire and the other end going to a 12V power source and it is not working. Am I doing something wrong? Also in the aux section I do have the 2 step activated but whenever I turn the switch on nothing happens.

Did you set the rev limit low and see if it limits the rpm? Nothing happens with a 2 step until you rev the engine to the rev limit set for the 2 step.

 

[FIL]

I am picking up a 1jz car with a Stinger... wondering where to get software at? Cant to seem to find a stinger website


thanks
Steve

I am guessing it has an adjustable rev limit feature also?

http://www.enginemanagement.com.au -> online agent for the Stinger (or something like that)

They have the software available for download there, and a support forum that may be able to help out as well... (Mind you, there's a lot of knowledge right here on SM too)

 

[10secdream]

Did you set the rev limit low and see if it limits the rpm? Nothing happens with a 2 step until you rev the engine to the rev limit set for the 2 step.

I did set the rev limit low and nothing happens. I checked the switch and it works fine as well. I just cant seem to figure out what is wrong.

 

[bigaaron]

I believe the problem is that you are switching 12v to the aux input wire, but it is a ground trigger. So if you follow the diagram for the Stinger, you need a single pole, double throw switch, or they might call it: (ON)-ON or SPCO with no off position in the center. The NC (normally closed) pin goes to 12v, the Common pin goes to the Stinger, and the NO (normally open) pin goes to ground. I think you could probably get away without having 12v for NC, but they do that because it's possible if you leave that pin floating (not connected to 12v or ground), it could get electrical noise and cause the rev limiter to kick on intermittently. Make sure you have the 2 step feature enabled under the "input control circuits" tab in the "aux settings" menu.

To test it, just disconnect the wire from your switch that goes to 12v, and connect it to ground instead.

EDIT: here's a diagram I made

 

[bigaaron]

A few more diagrams for the Stinger thread:

 

[10secdream]

Thanks a bunch Aaron!

 

[Pharnhyte]

http://www.enginemanagement.com.au -> online agent for the Stinger (or something like that)

They have the software available for download there, and a support forum that may be able to help out as well... (Mind you, there's a lot of knowledge right here on SM too)

Thanks I really appreciate it

 

[10secdream]

Heres a question for all of you. When your car is fully warm and idling does the idle stay really consistent or does it tend to bounce up and down ~80-100 rpms? Mine seems to bounce up and down and I was just wondering if this is normal. I set my idle to around 750 but it always goes up to 850 then back down to 750 like its always trying to adjust itself.

 

[rakkasan]

Heres a question for all of you. When your car is fully warm and idling does the idle stay really consistent or does it tend to bounce up and down ~80-100 rpms? Mine seems to bounce up and down and I was just wondering if this is normal. I set my idle to around 750 but it always goes up to 850 then back down to 750 like its always trying to adjust itself.

It's not normal. Mine idles very smoothly at 900rpm. Check to see what your idle AFR is and if you have any vacuum leaks, it's not trying to adjust itself, it can't unless you've wired in some sort of PWN/air valve.....

 

[rakkasan]

Aaron, when you say "stock tach", does that include the 1JZ tach also?

Nice schematics BTW....

 

[10secdream]

It's not normal. Mine idles very smoothly at 900rpm. Check to see what your idle AFR is and if you have any vacuum leaks, it's not trying to adjust itself, it can't unless you've wired in some sort of PWN/air valve.....

Ya I figured it was suppose to be a consistent idle. My AFR at idle is 14.7. I guess I will have to start checking for vacuum leaks now.

 

[IJ.]

It's not normal. Mine idles very smoothly at 900rpm. Check to see what your idle AFR is and if you have any vacuum leaks, it's not trying to adjust itself, it can't unless you've wired in some sort of PWN/air valve.....

Have a look at the cells around your idle speed on the Ign and Fuel maps, a trick I use to help keep idle stable is to have less ignition above the idle point and more below it this way if the idle speeds up the lower ignition timing slows it down and pushes it back to normal idle and the same happens if it slows. (this works well with an Auto trans so you don't get a jerk from N to D)

 

[bigaaron]

Aaron, when you say "stock tach", does that include the 1JZ tach also?

Nice schematics BTW....

If you want to have a Stinger aux output run the stock Toyota tach because you're running a 7m-gte igniter on the Stinger, or if you have an aftermarket igniter, you use that circuit or the tach will be all jumpy and inaccurate.

 

[10secdream]

Hey guys I started the car again tonight and the idle is still a little jumpy. I checked for vacuum leaks and could not find any but maybe I am missing something.

What AFR's are you guys running at idle? I am running pretty rich ~13's and if I try to take away fuel the idle even gets more jumpy. Are my current AFR's ok or am I missing something.

 

[rakkasan]

Hey guys I started the car again tonight and the idle is still a little jumpy. I checked for vacuum leaks and could not find any but maybe I am missing something.

What AFR's are you guys running at idle? I am running pretty rich ~13's and if I try to take away fuel the idle even gets more jumpy. Are my current AFR's ok or am I missing something.

I don't remember my exact AFR, but I do recall that is a bit on the rich side. Heres the way i adjusted mine:

1. play with/adjust your fuel map until the idle RPM is the highest (just play with it and watch the RPM on the software)
2. once you have the highest RPM possible, turn down the idle speed via the set screw on the throttle body to the desired RPM

One other thing to note. My car idle is set to 900rpm because it seems to give a good smooth idle. 800rpm is decent, but anything lower gave my motor a not so desirable idle (misses, unstable, plug fouling, et al.). That seems to be the nature of the beast with stand alone.....

 

[rakkasan]

If you want to have a Stinger aux output run the stock Toyota tach because you're running a 7m-gte igniter on the Stinger, or if you have an aftermarket igniter, you use that circuit or the tach will be all jumpy and inaccurate.

So this won't work with the stock 1JZ ignitor? I'm a little confused (go figure :sarcasm: ).

 

[10secdream]

So this won't work with the stock 1JZ ignitor? I'm a little confused (go figure :sarcasm: ).

I think it only applies to the 7M ignitor. My 1JZ with the stock tach seem to be spot on with the stinger tach.

 

[bigaaron]

I think it only applies to the 7M ignitor. My 1JZ with the stock tach seem to be spot on with the stinger tach.

Give this man a prize! :icon_bigg