Sawbladz build. Lots of pics...possibly some progress.

gsmokez

New Member
Feb 18, 2007
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Brampton, Ontario
yeah I got it everywhere you described except the hatch and I'm not sure about the mouldings yet. I really hope the mouldings are clean but I doubt it. Although I'm not too worried because all my rust is REALLY minor. It would just need sanding and priming.
 

kotu100

Active Member
Nov 23, 2006
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Easton, Ma
i wouldnt just sand and paint rust without treating it with a rust inhibitor beforehand. like sawbladz says, rust is a cancer and it spreads like so.
use something like this to strip all the paint and rust from the area then seal w/ primer, then paint.
10332.jpg
 

Sawbladz

Supramania Contributor
Mar 14, 2006
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Oshawa, ON, CA
Went and visited two semi-local machine shops today. If any of the locals want to PM me for the names of these shops, feel free. I would be glad to share my thoughts. I don't know if it's right to bring the shops name into this since I have no first hand experience with their work yet, just impressions.

Machine Shop #1:

Asked if they could do a hardness test on the head. He did not know what I was talking about.

Asked if he had a torque plate. He said he had one but not anymore. He then stated that a torque plate only makes 2 thou difference.

I asked if he could do an RA of 30 or less, he said yes.

I asked if they are able to measure and line hone the bearing saddles and cam saddles. He told me that they can do this. I then asked about how he would deal with a warped head. He stated that he would not heat/straighten the head, he would only line hone the cam saddles. He stated that he did not like heating the head to straighten it because of the high heat needed.

I asked about what was needed to be bolted to the engine for boring. He said nothing. Not the bearing caps or the timing belt tensioner. He did mention that the front timing cover was needed as it has to be milled as well. His exact words were "...that's just an old school idea. We checked and it makes no difference."

I asked what kind of bearings he recommends. He said King bearings and that he didn't use Clevites. He didn't like the tri-metal construction of the Clevite bearings.

Pricing:

450 for head work (includes valve job, shimming of cams, milling)
450 for block work (milling, magnafluxing, cleaning, painting, boring, crank work)
400 for balancing (not done in house, needs the dampener, flywheel, etc.)
170 for bearings (King main and rod bearings)

650 for full assembly (I don't want this but I thought I would ask anyway)

Overall I was not too impressed. The place was dark, dirty and did not seem overly organized. The shop was large but was also shared with a tuning shop. There was a very nice Mk4 in the shop but I don't know if it was a customers car or not. During the entire meeting he didn't write anything down or try to break down the pricing for me at all.


Machine Shop #2


When I first walked in I was greeted and asked what I was there for. As soon as I mentioned getting a quote he sat down and started taking notes. He documented everything I asked about and made sure that I knew what I wanted and why.

I asked about a hardness test and magnafluxing. He told me he doesn't touch it until it has been done. Doesn't want me to waste my money. He also mentioned that he would check for warping on the head. He stated that he would be able to straighten the head (in an oven) and line bore it but if it was warped too much, it would be cheaper/better to get a different one.

I asked about a torque plate and he said he didn't have one. He doesn't see enough M series motors to warrant having one. This did not surprise me at all.

He asked about the condition of the motor I plan on rebuilding. Since I am not positive (don't have it apart yet), he said he would get me two prices. One for just polishing the crank, the other if it needs to be ground.

I asked about balancing and he said he had no problem doing that. He told me that I would need to bring in the flywheels and balancer to do this.

We discussed bolting all the stuff onto the block. He started tell me the reason to do this is to simulate how it would be all assembled. He even started talking about how in a perfect world you would machine it at opperating temp. This reminded me of IJ. lol He wasn't sure about how necessary bolting on the timing belt tensioner was. He asked about the water jacket around the cylinders and if it would make that much of a difference. Once I am done writing this I will go look for an picture IJ took of how he deformed the cylinder wall with that bolt. I want to print it off and show it to him.

I asked him about bearings and he suggested Clevites or some type of race bearing I had never heard of. He used to race bearings in his personal engines and loved them. He doesn't think they are made for 7M applications but he is looking into it. In the mean time he is quoting me on the Clevites since I indicated that was what I wanted.

He asked me how much of the build I wanted to do myself. I said I wanted to do quite a bit but not necessarily all. He then suggested that he do the head for me. He wants to shim the head and install everything. He will give me a quote on both him doing it and doing it myself. Then I can decide.


I am still waiting for prices since he wanted to call his suppliers and give me accurate prices. As soon as he calls I will add them here.

My impressions of the shop were very positive. It seemed clean and orderly but not overly so. There were engines and cylinder heads around the shop in various states of assembly. All the people there were older and seemed very experienced. The shop itself is family owned and has been in business for a long time. He seemed very excited about the motor and loved their design. Unless his price quote is astronomical I am pretty sure he will be building my motor.


So what do you guys think? I am very glad I organized my thoughts before I went. I am also very glad I went to more than one shop. VERY glad. lol
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
For me it's not worth spending a single cent on a head until it's passed a hardness test.

Sorry to harp on about this but it's that important.

The Tester is a cheap bit of gear and not terribly sophisticated I'd steer clear of any shop that doesn't have one or know about them.

"The Shore (Scleroscope ) Hardness Test

The Scleroscope test consists of dropping a diamond tipped hammer, which falls inside a glass tube under the force of its own weight from a fixed height, onto the test specimen. The height of the rebound travel of the hammer is measured on a graduated scale. The harder the material, the higher the rebound. The scale of the rebound is arbitrarily chosen and consists on Shore units, divided into 100 parts, which represent the average rebound from pure hardened high-carbon steel. The scale is continued higher than 100 to to allow for metals having greater hardness.

The shore scleroscope test does not normally mark the material under test. The Shore Scleroscope measures hardness in relation to the elasticity of the material.

Advantages of this method are portability and non-marking of the test surface."
 

Sawbladz

Supramania Contributor
Mar 14, 2006
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Oshawa, ON, CA
Is there an acceptable range of hardness that our head should be in? The second machine shop said they would check the head for hardness but I failed to ask how they would do that.
 

Sawbladz

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Mar 14, 2006
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Oshawa, ON, CA
hottscennessey;955514 said:
Off topic: Sawbladz, you ever get to try out those traction bars to see if they helped with wheel hop?

Not yet. The full rear suspension is being done as soon as the snow melts. That includes the traction bars and poly bushings. I will then go to the track and see what happens. It has to be better than it is now. My only other options would be to replace the shocks. They are getting old anyways.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Sawbladz;955493 said:
Is there an acceptable range of hardness that our head should be in? The second machine shop said they would check the head for hardness but I failed to ask how they would do that.

As long as it's NOT T-0 and is uniform across the head it should be fine
(they tend to go on the Exhaust side first if they've been cooked)
 

SupraRon

Supramania Contributor
Jan 2, 2008
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Canada
kotu100;955112 said:
i wouldnt just sand and paint rust without treating it with a rust inhibitor beforehand. like sawbladz says, rust is a cancer and it spreads like so.
use something like this to strip all the paint and rust from the area then seal w/ primer, then paint.
10332.jpg

Thanks. I'll do that!
 

SupraRon

Supramania Contributor
Jan 2, 2008
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Canada
Sawbladz;954738 said:
It isn't just under the mud flap moulding that is the problem. It is the mud flap itself. It is metal backed and rusts from the inside out. I had to replace at least one of mine. It was a long time ago and I don't recall 100%.

Common places for rust are wheel wells, rear tire well, hatch, around windshield, behind any and all mouldings, lower edges of doors and the targa.

I still have a bubble on my targa (nobody knows it's there but me) and some spots around my windshield. The windshield rust will get done if/when I ever break the windshield. The targa spot will be done when I add a 3-piece wing.

Rust is an evil cancer that never sleeps. I have nightmares about rust.:(

Thanks man! I'll be sure to ask for your input when I get to tackling mine! I know I must have rust hiding in most of those areas you mention.

Sorry I don't have any input for you on the machining. I'm a rook!

Ron
 

Mr.PFloyd

I am the Super Devil
Jun 22, 2005
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Mississauga, Ontario
Yeah i know machine shop 1, and you really can't judge the book by it's cover... mine was done there, as well as a million other locals. I stand behind him and his work... and guess who PUR sends their stuff to?
 

Sawbladz

Supramania Contributor
Mar 14, 2006
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Oshawa, ON, CA
So I just installed the first part from my winter mods pile. The JDM tail lights. I just have to say, I don't know if I like them or not. I think this has a lot to do with the darker center trim. This confirms that I need to paint the trim or learn to live with it being mismatched.

I took many pictures during the install and I might do a write up on it just to clarify the modifications needed for the lock cylinder. I will check out the pictures and see if they turned out well.

This is the picture that shows the problem the best. I will take more pictures outside and from angles that make them look good.

After
p1006696_1.jpg

Before
p1006696_2.jpg
 
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gsmokez

New Member
Feb 18, 2007
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Brampton, Ontario
Hey man I think the 3 piece tails look beautiful and would look even better if you got a 3 piece spoiler but I see what you're saying about the darker piece of moulding. Have you ever thought about getting the 89+ mouldings for your car?