Sawbladz build. Lots of pics...possibly some progress.
- Thread starter Sawbladz
- Start date
funny cause I bought a few things for christmas and ss brake lines was one of the things I got.Keep the updates and pics coming you already know I love this car.
very nice, its very clean but at the same time has lil sublties that change the look.
what kinda suspension did you put in? looks like tokico HP's with eibachs. how do they ride? any problem with the lowering springs blowing out the struts?
what kinda suspension did you put in? looks like tokico HP's with eibachs. how do they ride? any problem with the lowering springs blowing out the struts?
Damn! Nice supra there! I hate red but this one is clean! Ill be keeping an eye on this build.
Hey Kotu! :icon_surp
Hey Kotu! :icon_surp
kotu100 said:
I have the HP's paired with H&R's. It is very low but it rides quite well. These shocks are over 4 years old and have never been replaced. They are still operating just fine but I intend to replace them soon anyways.
Thanks for the encouragement guys. I am waiting for spring so I can install this small pile of parts I have accumulated. I also need to find a place to store the spare engine I located for my build.
Ok, the time has come to go shopping for the build...
I want to double check my list of questions before I go in person to the local machine shops for quotes.
My parts to buy list:
Eagle rods
Clevite rod/main bearings and thrust washers (probably have the machine shop order these)
Toyota oil pump (reminder: shim relief valve ~5mm)
Oil pump shaft bearing
Oil squirter bolts (6 of them)
HG locator pins (2 of them)
TOYOTA freeze plugs
headgasket (waiting to measure block before choosing thickness)
ARP head studs
rubber hoses (won't know what I need till I have the engine out)
Timing Belt/tensioner/accessory belts (gates and Toyota, spring and pulley for tensioner)
gasket set/FIPG (decent one off ebay)
Crank bolt
Mint used dampener or ATI (funds make this choice)
Torque plate (if I can't find one locally)
Questions for machine shop:
Determine the hardness of the head.
Do they have a torque plate for 7M?
Cost to clean and check block/head for cracks and warping?
What RA are they capable of producing? (what is required for an HKS? <30?)
Cost to mill head+block to that RA?
Cost to balance rotating assembly? (what all would they need for this step?)
Cost for 3-angle valve job?
Ability to hit cylinder bore diameter at .0005" accuracy?
Ability to measure and line hone the main bearing saddles if necessary?
Cost to size rods for crank?
Cost to polish/grind crank if required? (not likely required since the motor have never knocked)
Make sure the Machine shop...
Machines with torque plate.
Machines with the main bearing caps in place and torqued to spec.
Machines with the front timing plate in place to match the top surface with the block deck.
Machines with the timing belt tensioning pulley installed and torqued down.
I know this is a lot but I would appreciate if you guys could read through this and give me some feedback. I don't think I am forgetting anything but I am doing this well in advance to ensure that I don't. Thanks.
I want to double check my list of questions before I go in person to the local machine shops for quotes.
My parts to buy list:
Eagle rods
Clevite rod/main bearings and thrust washers (probably have the machine shop order these)
Toyota oil pump (reminder: shim relief valve ~5mm)
Oil pump shaft bearing
Oil squirter bolts (6 of them)
HG locator pins (2 of them)
TOYOTA freeze plugs
headgasket (waiting to measure block before choosing thickness)
ARP head studs
rubber hoses (won't know what I need till I have the engine out)
Timing Belt/tensioner/accessory belts (gates and Toyota, spring and pulley for tensioner)
gasket set/FIPG (decent one off ebay)
Crank bolt
Mint used dampener or ATI (funds make this choice)
Torque plate (if I can't find one locally)
Questions for machine shop:
Determine the hardness of the head.
Do they have a torque plate for 7M?
Cost to clean and check block/head for cracks and warping?
What RA are they capable of producing? (what is required for an HKS? <30?)
Cost to mill head+block to that RA?
Cost to balance rotating assembly? (what all would they need for this step?)
Cost for 3-angle valve job?
Ability to hit cylinder bore diameter at .0005" accuracy?
Ability to measure and line hone the main bearing saddles if necessary?
Cost to size rods for crank?
Cost to polish/grind crank if required? (not likely required since the motor have never knocked)
Make sure the Machine shop...
Machines with torque plate.
Machines with the main bearing caps in place and torqued to spec.
Machines with the front timing plate in place to match the top surface with the block deck.
Machines with the timing belt tensioning pulley installed and torqued down.
I know this is a lot but I would appreciate if you guys could read through this and give me some feedback. I don't think I am forgetting anything but I am doing this well in advance to ensure that I don't. Thanks.
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guy, why the hell are you looking so much for a torque plate? Stop trying to have a placebo effect or attempting to build a f1 car engine...
CryoSlash;954421 said:
It just annoys the hell out of me that there isn't a machine shop that can do the job right. If at all possible I only want to build this motor once. In the near future, I will be shooting for a decent amount of power and I want the most reliable engine possible. At the end of the day, $400 is a drop in the bucket.
IJ: Thanks, I will add that to the list.
Great ride Jamie! Nice to see how much you progressed over time. Keep on posting the pics. See you at the TSC meets!
BTW, I already told George I'll be getting the RR 3" exhaust system, from the DDP to muffler! Love the way it looks on yours. Badass!
Ron
BTW, I already told George I'll be getting the RR 3" exhaust system, from the DDP to muffler! Love the way it looks on yours. Badass!
Ron
Sawbladz;813482 said:I had some money left over from selling the Civic so I quickly started on maintenance. The rust had to go so…..
Hey Jamie, when you repaired the rust around the wheel well, did you cut out the rusted parts and replace with new pieces or did you simply sand, prime, paint and whatever else is involved?
Ron
Whats up SupraRon? You got rust on your wheel wells too? I actually have to get that repaired as well I HATE rust. I remember messaging him about this and he didn't mention anything about cutting the metal out. I'm 99% sure he said it was sanded, primed , and then painted. Pretty funny how all the TSC guys are here.
nvm I was completely wrong lol. Heres the message. Kinda scares me because I have an 87 and still haven't checked under my mouldings yet. So much stuff to do once the weather gets better.
I had it done in the spring or 2005. I has rust behind the mouldings and behind the front mudflaps. I replaced all trim and mudflaps because they were metal backed and rusty. The rust wasn't that bad at all. There were holes through the metal so it required new pieces welded in. It needed new metal in both doors and both rear fenders. The car was then painted on both sides and blended into the roof and other panels. My paint was in good condition so the blend worked perfectly.
I had it done in the spring or 2005. I has rust behind the mouldings and behind the front mudflaps. I replaced all trim and mudflaps because they were metal backed and rusty. The rust wasn't that bad at all. There were holes through the metal so it required new pieces welded in. It needed new metal in both doors and both rear fenders. The car was then painted on both sides and blended into the roof and other panels. My paint was in good condition so the blend worked perfectly.
gsmokez;954704 said:
What's up! Yeah, I think it is a very common problem especially in the wheel well areas.
I figured I'd join as there is tons of material for reference and good ideas! Anyhow, Jamie holla at me when you get a chance.
you got any rust under your mouldings or anything like that? So far I have rear wheel wells, the little part of the passenger side skirt, I guess its called the mudflap, and a little bit on the hood and driver's door. Rust hides in so many little places I didn't even realize them all until I thoroughly looked at the car for about an hour lol.
It isn't just under the mud flap moulding that is the problem. It is the mud flap itself. It is metal backed and rusts from the inside out. I had to replace at least one of mine. It was a long time ago and I don't recall 100%.
Common places for rust are wheel wells, rear tire well, hatch, around windshield, behind any and all mouldings, lower edges of doors and the targa.
I still have a bubble on my targa (nobody knows it's there but me) and some spots around my windshield. The windshield rust will get done if/when I ever break the windshield. The targa spot will be done when I add a 3-piece wing.
Rust is an evil cancer that never sleeps. I have nightmares about rust.
Common places for rust are wheel wells, rear tire well, hatch, around windshield, behind any and all mouldings, lower edges of doors and the targa.
I still have a bubble on my targa (nobody knows it's there but me) and some spots around my windshield. The windshield rust will get done if/when I ever break the windshield. The targa spot will be done when I add a 3-piece wing.
Rust is an evil cancer that never sleeps. I have nightmares about rust.