San antonio

slopra

Formerly tsavenged
Jan 15, 2010
284
0
0
San Antonio, TX
I'm looking at going with a plug and play aem standalone system. Standalone will always be the best route to go, but there are some pretty good piggybacks. It all depends what you want to do tuning wise.
My power steering is just bypassed and my rack is leaking everywhere and I drove just fine for almost a year lol

Old school ftw!
 

Suprapowaz!(2)

New Member
Apr 10, 2006
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San Antonio, Tx.
Ok, I got off my lazy ass today. But still didn't finish what I wanted to do. Almost done with the downpipe. I got up this morning and went to my friends shop. He has that mig welder there that I'm welding fluxcore wire through. It's ugly, but functional. Not to mention that I'm going to take an angle grinder to it and clean it up some. Anyhow, I was there just to tack up some pipes that I cut. I was going to take the downpipe back home and fit it up to the rest of the exhaust. From there I made my final cuts and marked where they need to be welded. Unfortunaly I ran out of time since he leaves the shop early on Saturdays. I'll have to make one final adjustment, and weld it all up for good. I have to shorten the DP about an inch close to the turbine side. Then I have to drill a hole for the O2 sensor bung and weld it on. I spent half the day running back and forth to the shop cause I left some pipes and all. Wife was pissed. I knew she'd be so no biggie. This Monday I'm going back to the shop to finish it up. Just one question... what's the best method to drill a hole for the O2 bung? Which bit could I use? It's either 3/4, or 1 inch hole I'm gonna need to drill. Here's a pic.


downpipe004.jpg
 

Suprapowaz!(2)

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Apr 10, 2006
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San Antonio, Tx.
Yeah. Just need to finish this DP, get a new O2 sensor, and a couple of vacuum lines. I still need to figure out what I'm gonna do about a catch can. I'm also going to start up the car with my MAP ECU delete AFM. I'm going to run their 550cc with smaller turbo map file and go from there. I have 550cc's and a Garrett 60trim. If it doesn't start or run right with that map then I'll have to see about running the AFM. I hope I don't have to.
 

Suprapowaz!(2)

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Apr 10, 2006
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San Antonio, Tx.
9 years. 9 long ass years. Today I went to my friends shop to finish up some welding and shorten the downpipe. When I got there he was really cranky and didn't want to be bothered. I then realized that he just got back from the dentist and had a tooth pulled. So I guess I'll let him rest a couple of days to recoup. In the meantime I guess I could go and get some vacuum lines and route 'em. I'm not going to be rerouting the positive crankcase ventilation line, or the one from the idle speed control valve into the intake. I think I'll just run a couple of breather filters on the PCV line. Could I do the same for the ISC valve? Or does that have to be rerouted back into the intake?
 

Suprapowaz!(2)

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Apr 10, 2006
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Ok, I've asked the question in the tech section about running breathers on the PCV and ISC lines. It's been advised not to eliminate the PCV system as it does serve a function other than venting. So I guess I'll have to fab up an intake pipe in front of the turbo with provisions for both PCV and ISV lines like the stock system. I'll take a look at what I'm gonna have to do tomorrow.
 

CT26smoker

Banned
May 25, 2010
223
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Houston
Suprapowaz!(2);1677525 said:
It's been advised not to eliminate the PCV system as it does serve a function other than venting.

Bull Shit.......
The PCV is terrible about putting crap into the turbo, and intercooler.
Although it will pull a slight vaccuum, it is hardly worth the downside of gumming up everything in the induction system.
I either run the crank case vent into the exhaust using one of the many available exhaust evac kits, or just a couple of long hoses down past the bellhousing, with some stainess steel wool stuck up inside to keep mud dobbers out.

The Evac set-up is best, as it will pull a good vaccuum on the crank case during full throttle, and help the rings seal.
I might even have a couple of the special check valves around here, they are your if you want them, as I found some high $$ military ones out at Kelly when they were shutting down.

The best, is to run a vaccuum pump, but that is normally just used on all out race cars.
I used to supply crankcase vaccuum pumps to an aircraft company on the west coast, that were far superior to the automotive ones that race shops sell, as they were miniature roots style blowers, where as the automotive ones are vane pumps.
They had failures withy the race car stuff, but the roots would never fail, even when they tested the things to 18,000 rpm.
 
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san supra

New Member
May 21, 2009
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san antonio
hmmmmmmmmm i might be a cheap ass and run the lines past the bellhousing

---------- Post added at 04:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:49 PM ----------

i finished my hard pipes back in oct. or something, and i couldnt get past 4k in second without fuel cut.
now the car runs fine but it feels slower and will go till 5k and then hit fuel cut.

basically it takes longer to spool. Its not from the weather change because there were some warm days in oct. also.
any ideas of things to check?
 

san supra

New Member
May 21, 2009
833
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san antonio
newish stock waste gate and no controller. 57trim maybe has 10k on it.

its a small difference but noticeable to me.

even with my 57trim i bet i couldnt hit 14psi in second gear. (if fuel cut wasnt an issue)


maybe i need an aftermarket controller
 

S.A. supra

New Member
Feb 15, 2009
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Buda, Texas
I took pictures of that car on I35 a couple of months ago. I'll post pics when I get home. I especially like the tribal tattoo that goes all the way around it.