The pistons all depend on where the crank is sitting at the time..doesn't' mean anything. Good to see you got the bolt out without using any extreme measures.
Rod knock?
- Thread starter Epy
- Start date
old man to the rescue hehe
are you sure he didn't hammer in a Torx bit??? trust me they work good.
are you following the TSRM?? It'll help.
are you sure he didn't hammer in a Torx bit??? trust me they work good.
are you following the TSRM?? It'll help.
Supracentral;1236395 said:
No I'm just unfamiliar with an inline 6.
I've only owned a buick and two hondas. On one of my hondas when I opened up the engine, 4 and 2 were in the same spot, and 3 and 1 were almost at tdc. I would've figured with a 6 ... it would've followed the same pattern and there would be 3 pairs of pistons at the same position insted of 4 and then 2... just using my common sense ...
but I guess not.
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If the crank was turned to TDC, #1 and #6 would be at TDC and the remaining pistons would follow the same type pattern you described. In this case, the crank was not set at TDC.
grimreaper;1235357 said:
where's the inblock cam on the 7m?
just giving you some shit. :rofl:
and btw you have to start somewhere. so feeling like you don't know shit is normal. i remember rebuilding my old 2000 yamaha blaster back in the day. i was so scared i was going to fuck it up. i had it bored over .40 then slapped it together and it ended up running really strong. i sold it and it runs fine to this day.
A deep socket (the right diameter), a rag and a rubber mallet 
I hope you kept the lifters in the correct order so you can put them back in the same location.
Don't lay the head combustion chamber down on a hard surface, you risk bending the valves. Actually, a valve job is something I leave up to a competent machinist.
I hope you kept the lifters in the correct order so you can put them back in the same location.
Don't lay the head combustion chamber down on a hard surface, you risk bending the valves. Actually, a valve job is something I leave up to a competent machinist.
Epy;1236544 said:
If you are going to have a shop build the head, just give it to them assembled.
Just remove the cams - this puts all the valved in a "closed" position and helps prevent damaging them.
Going with oversize valves will only be useful if you plan on a high HP build (big turbo) and need the flow through the head...there's a lot more to it than just the valves. If you are staying with a NA motor, oversize valves on this motor will not do anything for you.
I have everything removed,
There was something odd I found, on the number 6 cylinder, there was NO carbon?
(#5 was cleaned by me) you see, besides directly on the valves, there isn't any.
The water jackets and the crankshaft and EVERYTHING on the inside are very rusty? Could that just mean they used water instead of actual coolant. (My grandpa said he's never seen that much before and he's opened and done a few engines)
*EDIT*
OK SO, if you've read any, I do want a HP build, I AM Getting turbo, SO NOW
SHOULD I DO OVERSIZED VALVES?
There was something odd I found, on the number 6 cylinder, there was NO carbon?
(#5 was cleaned by me) you see, besides directly on the valves, there isn't any.
The water jackets and the crankshaft and EVERYTHING on the inside are very rusty? Could that just mean they used water instead of actual coolant. (My grandpa said he's never seen that much before and he's opened and done a few engines)
*EDIT*
OK SO, if you've read any, I do want a HP build, I AM Getting turbo, SO NOW
SHOULD I DO OVERSIZED VALVES?
Sometimes you can have a coolant leak from the h/gasket into the cylinder and it does a great job of cleaning the head and the piston.
No you don't need bigger valves, the stocko ones have been pushed well over 600hp before and the fact you have a tight budget it wouldn't make sense.
Before making any rash judgments on the head get it checked out by a machinist who will test it and can weld up any corrosion that may have gone to far.If it makes you feel any better i've seen worse heads that were repairable but they were all pretty straight which just a photo doesn't tell.
Before making any rash judgments on the head get it checked out by a machinist who will test it and can weld up any corrosion that may have gone to far.If it makes you feel any better i've seen worse heads that were repairable but they were all pretty straight which just a photo doesn't tell.
Epy;1236738 said:
#6 tends to run hot, it's not unusual.
Epy;1236738 said:
When coolant is exposed to exhaust gas it becomes acidic and creates lots of rust. If the motor was run with a BHG between compression and the water jacket (most common 7M failure mode), it may have been that.
Did the motor sit for a long time?
Epy;1236738 said:
If you're planning on over 650 rwhp, go ahead, otherwise the head will flow good enough in stock form.
Yes crank is rusty.
I don't know if the motor sat for awhile or ever had a BHG, don't have history.
(didn't even have manual, I jsut ordered one off of factoryautomanuals.com(GREAT SITE BY THE WAY!!)
OK SO NO i wont be doing oversized valves, im only going for 400 or a lil more(I want ot be able to stay with the w58 for now because I don't know if ill have enough money for an r154)
I'm getting a 272 regrind anyways
Alright well now it's just up to me choosing a machine shop. it's ready to go...
one last question, IS arp like the only trusted brand for bolts and studs because everyone and their mother seems to use them.
I'm going to get them, but it was just a curiosity question because i acutally don't think I've seen any other brand being used.
I can't remember if I actually showed you guys the video of that actual 2 spun rod bearings I found...
but heres a pic...
I don't know if the motor sat for awhile or ever had a BHG, don't have history.
(didn't even have manual, I jsut ordered one off of factoryautomanuals.com(GREAT SITE BY THE WAY!!)
OK SO NO i wont be doing oversized valves, im only going for 400 or a lil more(I want ot be able to stay with the w58 for now because I don't know if ill have enough money for an r154)
I'm getting a 272 regrind anyways
Alright well now it's just up to me choosing a machine shop. it's ready to go...
one last question, IS arp like the only trusted brand for bolts and studs because everyone and their mother seems to use them.
I'm going to get them, but it was just a curiosity question because i acutally don't think I've seen any other brand being used.
I can't remember if I actually showed you guys the video of that actual 2 spun rod bearings I found...
but heres a pic...
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Epy;1236738 said:
What I've been reading is you changing your mind more often than a guy changes his underwear. That (and a few other nuggets) suggests you need to read more and do less at this point in time.
Good luck...I think you're going to need it.