Rod knock?

[Epy]

Yes that spun a bearing for sure. Had you drove it much more it could have thrown the rod. Black I think hit the nail on the head, probably wasn't clearanced properly when it was rebuilt. If yopu were to plasticgauge the others you will probably find that they are not sized right either.

The only other thing I can think of to cause that is no oil or loss of pressure for some reason. Happens with the 7M under hard braking or cornering.

See I think I might be tackling too much. I'm confused as to what clearances I'd have to check?

I'm really afraid of doing this rebuild and starting it up and driving it for 5 minutes and something fucks up even worst.

I keep reading threads left and right of stuff happening.
I'm trying to stay confident but I really don't want it going down the drain...

Like this guy...
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=518680

 

[grimreaper]

let a good shop do the machine work and spend a few hundred extra for them to put it together as well.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

See I think I might be tackling too much. I'm confused as to what clearances I'd have to check?

I'm really afraid of doing this rebuild and starting it up and driving it for 5 minutes and something fucks up even worst.

I keep reading threads left and right of stuff happening.
I'm trying to stay confident but I really don't want it going down the drain...

Like this guy...
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=518680

You need to have a machine shop clearence the bearings, check the head, crank, etc. You can check the rod and main clearences youself to see were they are at now. Easy to do with Plasticgauge. A Haynes or TSRM would show you how. If you don't feel comforable with it it should be done by a shop. Call your local Toyota dealer and ask them if they can recommend a good shop they use. Have them check it and let you know how much they want to at least put the bottom end together.

 

[Epy]

OK cool.

But now, will a good machine shop allow me to purchase the items I want(let's say online) and install them for me?
Cuz I want to go JE pistons 8.4 cr. I've heard CP is good but I heard there way more and je is good for the price.
I've also heard of probe

I'm also going to go with eagle rods.

At the end of the rod(where the caps and bearings are and the screws) should there be play left to right? like I can move the whole rod left to right...
I'll try to get a video for it as soon as possible...

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

OK cool.

But now, will a good machine shop allow me to purchase the items I want(let's say online) and install them for me?
Cuz I want to go JE pistons 8.4 cr. I've heard CP is good but I heard there way more and je is good for the price.
I've also heard of probe

I'm also going to go with eagle rods.

At the end of the rod(where the caps and bearings are and the screws) should there be play left to right? like I can move the whole rod left to right...
I'll try to get a video for it as soon as possible...

Yes most will work with you with the parts. They will need them before the can machine anything.

Why are you wanting to drop the compression ratio? Before you order anything the shop should look things over to see what has to be done.

Yes there is some play back and forth, there is a limit that can be. The TSRM will give you the tolerances.

 

[Epy]

Because I want to go turbo, and I've heard it's best to do that.

 

[gaboonviper85]

Because I want to go turbo, and I've heard it's best to do that.

Only do that if you know for sure you will boost it! It's a very expensive process to turbo an na car...the ge compression can handle a good bit of boost just not as much as a gte...gte generally makes it to ruffly 500hp on pump gas while the ge about 350hp...350hp makes a very fun supra.

 

[Epy]

Well wait, why does the gte get so much more to the ge?

Would it be really worth it go the gte route?

What if I made the internals as close to a gte?

So if I am understanding right, it's good to higher the compression on an N/A, and good to lower the compression on a boost?

What if I stayed stock compression with the ge, stock bore, and boosted what would happen?

I took another video of that 'play' back and forth and found another spun rod bearing, 5 AND 6 spun.

It almost looks like number 4 may be too and theres play in it.
I took pics also, got the cams and cam gears and cover off today

I just can't upload it because my computer which has the digi camera stuff installed is being worked on cuz I picked up a bad virus :X, like i was running a fake xp, like it overran my xp and had a completely fake one on there like recording my strokes and shit.

 

[grimreaper]

are you the one actually putting this motor back together? Higher compression + boost on timing tables set up for lower compression (AND lower boost then most run) = detonation. These are basics that should be considered with the direction you build is headed.

 

[Epy]

I know, but then I go to say about lowering the compression and people are saying why?

I already read about detonation.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

I know, but then I go to say about lowering the compression and people are saying why?

I already read about detonation.

With a NA you can go as much as 11to1 compression ratio with premium fuel. The only reason you would want to lower it would be if you want to go NA-T. Read some of the stickies about going NA-T or swapping to a GTE. There's a load of info on both.

 

[88 Blue_Dragon]

With a NA you can go as much as 11to1 compression ratio with premium fuel. The only reason you would want to lower it would be if you want to go NA-T. Read some of the stickies about going NA-T or swapping to a GTE. There's a load of info on both.

what happens if you go higher then 11:1 in a ge? or are you just saying for premium and if you go higher you'll need race fuel.

 

[Supracentral]

It's a matter of octane.

For 93, that's about the upper limit.

On race fuel you can go as high as you like provided you use the right fuels.

 

[88 Blue_Dragon]

It's a matter of octane.

For 93, that's about the upper limit.

On race fuel you can go as high as you like provided you use the right fuels.

oh ok thanks lol

sorry about the thread hi-jacking

 

[Epy]

ok gotcha.

So IT WOULD be a good idea to lower the compression if I'm going to go turbo.

Now if I don't, then it was a bad idea to lower c/r?
Does the c/r ratio actaully matter when putting out numbers, like for instance, an 11:1 on an NA is better than 8.4:1?

Could you link me to those stickies, I'm not good at finding shit and search button don't work.

As soon as I get my computer back ill upload pics, because I need to know at what I go at next.
thanks guys

 

[truckman1966]

If you don't know these things then you shouldn't be meddling inside of an engine. the only reason to run even lower c/r is for more than stock boost. If you bump the c/r up, it will in increase hp on an na and a turbo both, but detonation is always a factor. yes, you can go to 11:1 but I would never even think about a turbo at that point. if you are going for big hp, then run gte pistons, or maybe lower c/r. you have to have a goal as to a boost pressure or hp output. if you were to go 11:1 then you would be doing some na buildup stuff which is not necessarily block buildup but little things like port matching and na cam upgrades (good luck finding 7M-GE hotrod cams). The 7M is a motor that has a much bigger following for turbo motors intead of na stuff. power would be easier from a turbo swap. but who am i to tell you what to do. to each his own.

 

[Epy]

I've already said, well maybe I haven't...

I made my build thread on sf.

I'm shooting for 10 psi, 20 or more on track

500-600 hp.
THat would be sufficient enough for me.

So god damnit everyone, can I ask the big question.

Should I lower the C/R and to what rate? or will stock hold this?
I've bene told 8.4:1

truckman, it's not that I don't know what I'm doing, but I've gotten a differen response out of every single person of let's say over 20... and then when I get a few in line(saying to lower c.r and go boost) a day or two later, some come out and say omg why would you do that, it's like, wtf people.

My plan for what I ME would like is 500 hp or more through boost built up motor and eventually nos.

 

[grimreaper]

I've already said, well maybe I haven't...

I made my build thread on sf.

I'm shooting for 10 psi, 20 or more on track

500-600 hp.
THat would be sufficient enough for me.

So god damnit everyone, can I ask the big question.

Should I lower the C/R and to what rate? or will stock hold this?
I've bene told 8.4:1

truckman, it's not that I don't know what I'm doing, but I've gotten a differen response out of every single person of let's say over 20... and then when I get a few in line(saying to lower c.r and go boost) a day or two later, some come out and say omg why would you do that, it's like, wtf people.

My plan for what I ME would like is 500 hp or more through boost built up motor and eventually nos.

:bsflag:

if your going to boost it, run turbo pistons, and stock compression ratios would be decent to shoot for if the block and head are getting decked (when selecting hg thickness). Drop the CP to much and your going to have a pig.

 

[Epy]

OH, so, now the new opinion is stay stock, correct?

 

[wiseco7mgt]

I've already said, well maybe I haven't...

I made my build thread on sf.

I'm shooting for 10 psi, 20 or more on track

500-600 hp.
THat would be sufficient enough for me.

So god damnit everyone, can I ask the big question.

Should I lower the C/R and to what rate? or will stock hold this?
I've bene told 8.4:1

truckman, it's not that I don't know what I'm doing, but I've gotten a differen response out of every single person of let's say over 20... and then when I get a few in line(saying to lower c.r and go boost) a day or two later, some come out and say omg why would you do that, it's like, wtf people.

My plan for what I ME would like is 500 hp or more through boost built up motor and eventually nos.

Woh! slow down there matey, don't get over excited.500-600hp is a lot and costs a lot unless your into dyno queens.
Ever driven a 400rwhp supra? my guess if your going from a n/a to a 400rwp turbo you'll soil your pants once boost kicks in and the tail starts moving around.
Keep your goals simple and work from there, reliability is the key unless you have a daily and a lot of money.
Start your goal at a sweet running, well tuned 300-350 rwhp.That will feel like a monster for you till you get used to it.
Look for 8.5-9.1 compression and that will be good for all your power goals at first. Get a ct26-57 trim to start with, there a great mix of power and reliability at a cheap price. Get a lex afm and a apexi or the like to tune with.
Get a good afpr and set it as per tsrm.
Use a good quality intercooler and pipes.
Find out how to work the search button and look for products that people are using with success and learn from there mistakes.