Rod knock?

Supracentral

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
10,542
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You need a breaker bar. Most people don't have the arm strength to bust those loose with just a ratchet.
 

Epy

New Member
Jan 15, 2009
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Florida
Kinda sorta what I meant by adding 2 feet of pipe on a ratchet, it's almost the same thing.
That is the last thing I haven't done yet because I don't have one.
damnit i guess im gonna have to make a run to the store cuz i need it now. i want this shit off
i hope autozone has some good ones

now when doing this, i read the tsrm , do 3 passes in that order they show.

should I do like, break it loose, then half way out, then all the way off as my 3 passes?
 

dumbo

Supramania Contributor
Jul 16, 2008
1,911
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Albera, Too Far North
yes, do what the book says. edit: turn each bolt the same each pass(ex. maybe 1/4 turn each) dont loosen and remove one at a time.

if you dont have a breaker bar, or a cheater(pipe, snipe ect)

the ultimate bad habbit is to use the box end of a wrench:naughty:...be careful.
 

Epy

New Member
Jan 15, 2009
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Florida
fuckin wonderufl the dumbass pieces of shit(dont knwo if u remember abotu talkign abotu guy before me diong a rebuild) fucking stripped the #5 bolt to the head, its completely rounded out.

I am clueless as to what to do, I cant get a pair of vice grips in there, un less i start with the valves first, even then it'd be hard, and i dont have one size up hex bit, i bought a set that goes to ten, im gonna run out the store now to ssee if i can get one and give that a shot but if it dont work then idk. what do i do?

bad typos due to rush and me being pissed

2eclsp4.jpg
 

Epy

New Member
Jan 15, 2009
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Florida
Well I ended up giving up. they dont make 11 mm in hex bits, and they go from 3/8 to 1/2 so they dont even have a lil bigger in sae.

im done for today im goin out, see what responses i get and ill try tommorrow im off again.

well I talked to a mechanic and he said soemthing about a spring loaded punch might do it. i have no idea what it is but he said u cant buy it at autozone u gotta go to like a norther toll equipment or united rentals
 
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wiseco7mgt

dirty mechanic
Aug 12, 2007
811
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0
queensland
well your not going to reuse the headbolts so i'd just drill the head of the bolt off and once the head is removed clamp onto the bolt shaft with a pair of vice grips.Never known anyone to round off a head bolt, he must have had the wrong sized hex key.:nono:
 

Supracentral

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
10,542
10
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wiseco7mgt;1235325 said:
well your not going to reuse the headbolts so i'd just drill the head of the bolt off and once the head is removed clamp onto the bolt shaft with a pair of vice grips.Never known anyone to round off a head bolt, he must have had the wrong sized hex key.:nono:

We saw a few at the shop. Customers who "tried to do the job themselves and then gave up" kind of stuff.

It's generally the end result of:

A: using the wrong sized tool.
-and-
B: Electric impact guns.

Combine those two together, and you can fuck up just about anything.
 

Epy

New Member
Jan 15, 2009
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Florida
Supracentral... I really hope that wasn't directed at me.

how the hell am I gonna drill that? you think it'll be alright with that one bolt just coming out at once by itself... it should be alright?

what about that spring loaded punch thing the guy I said talked about?

btw just wanted to say thanks, you guys are alot mroe help than sf just get me through this, it wont be that painful.
 
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dogdrake

New Member
Oct 25, 2008
148
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Gadsden Alabama
just drill the bolt head off and the head will lift off . thats all you can do.use some thick oil or something to help lubrication and aid in keeping the shavings from flying everywhere slower speed would be better.or get the head vatted and you shouldnt have a problem . if you dont plan on cleaning the head use a vacume while you drill it . just use your common sense.
 

wiseco7mgt

dirty mechanic
Aug 12, 2007
811
0
0
queensland
If your drilling steel its better to drill at low speed anyway, and lets face it the whole head will need the valve stem seals done anyways ,the previous guy wouldn't have done it right going off your current situation. So you may as well pull the valves and give them a regrind while your head is off and you have such great access to them. Look for any pitting in the seats and try your best to get a consistent grind pattern the whole way round the valve and seat.
The whole head will need a bath before you put it all back together so check all galleries are clear and clean it several times for good luck.
Don't forget to get the head surfaced to suit a mhg and check for straightness or get a machinist to check for you.There may be a little warpage after the headbolt fiasco but you may get lucky, the worst case is getting a little more shaved off than just a light surface grind.
There's heaps of threads that go into great depth about rebuilding the 7m head for both performance and reliability, just do a search.
 

Epy

New Member
Jan 15, 2009
74
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Florida
Im I thinking of a different drill or something, im asking bro, what do you mean by drill it off?
Like drill a hole through the center of the head?
when you say drill, i'm thinking of a drill and drill bits...

like easy-out style?
 

wiseco7mgt

dirty mechanic
Aug 12, 2007
811
0
0
queensland
yeah matey use a drill bit similar size to the shaft, just big enough to drill the head of the bolt off. If you do it slowly but with plenty of pressure and a good bit you'll make hardly any mess at all. I recommend a pilot hole with a thin drill bit first.
 

MadNad

New Member
Jan 25, 2008
44
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Lafayatee, CA
Epy;1235153 said:
fuckin wonderufl the dumbass pieces of shit(dont knwo if u remember abotu talkign abotu guy before me diong a rebuild) fucking stripped the #5 bolt to the head, its completely rounded out.

I am clueless as to what to do, I cant get a pair of vice grips in there, un less i start with the valves first, even then it'd be hard, and i dont have one size up hex bit, i bought a set that goes to ten, im gonna run out the store now to ssee if i can get one and give that a shot but if it dont work then idk. what do i do?

I had the same thing happen to me on my motorcycle. I used a screw extractor. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40349

I've never had that much luck with these, but it freakin worked!
 
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Epy

New Member
Jan 15, 2009
74
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0
Florida
Idk. that's the thing.
my grandpa did on his own.

i just came home and hes like look what I did, he said he had to hammer in the hex bit or something and then, use like a screwdriver or some idk some thing that he could stick in to have like a groove to help catch it(at one of the angles were 2 sides meet)(he said it wasn't COMPLETELY rounded on the inside, only towards the edge), it looks like what happen was the guys when they were torquing it, they didn't have the hex all the way in and had like oil that would make it slip(btw we found another one, there were two like this, but the 2nd one wasn't as bad)

so it wasn't really a 'good' way, it was ghetto. Wasn't really a 'method' lmao.

Waiting for me to remember my pbucket password to upload the pics. i forgot it.
 

Epy

New Member
Jan 15, 2009
74
0
0
Florida
Fuck it. I'll just use tinypic for now. just 2 for now.\

I'm going out on a limb here and hoping it's not a stupid question but, why are 4 of the pistons in the same position and the other two towards bdc and the others like almost at tdc?
you can't really tell but there in the same exact spot... now I haven't moved the crank at all, how would it be firing like that?

286thnd.jpg


315hpxv.jpg
 
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