Ridiculous 1000HP 7M Street MK3 Build
- Thread starter NegativeGeForce
- Start date
Are you running that tig on 110 power? If so what size breaker? I have been thinking about getting a small tig to toss in the basement, my 400 amp inverter tig is too big to take out of the shop.
Thanks,
-Sean
Thanks,
-Sean
Keep the info coming about the motor. I just did a rebuild on my motor, but I am already thinking of building another one. And this time MORE POWER. 
How have you liked the TIG machine? Also how did you like the work the machinist shops did on your motor? Were they actually familiar with the 7M or did you have to guide them through most of the process?
How have you liked the TIG machine? Also how did you like the work the machinist shops did on your motor? Were they actually familiar with the 7M or did you have to guide them through most of the process?
Im running the tig on 240 through 50amp breaker and so far I haven't tripped it when maxing it out. I tried running it on 120 through 20amp breaker and it kept tripping it when I got near 100amps on the machine (goes up to 156 with 120 volt).
Engine lab seems pretty knowledgable. They have done plenty of 7M's. Page 7 has pics of the head they did for me. They matched up the valve job pretty well to my port work, but next time im gonna have them bore the valve seats before I port. Unless you're really specific they might call you back and ask. They have done that several times for me. I gave them a torque plate but without the spacers so asked for those. Some things they just did correctly without asking like putting normal viton stem seals on in take and high temp's on exhaust valves. They also did head straightening without asking as apart of the head reconditioning.
Monday I am finally getting my coated j&e asymmetrical pistons and going back in to engine lab with my torque plate spacers, clutch, ati damper, rods and pistons to have them finally do the machine work.
I should be putting the engine together beginning of feb. I will probably give more details then.
Meanwhile im trying to scramble all the parts I will need to get the engine together. Im going with ACL duraglide bearings. They are the best bearings for the 7M....one step below race bearings. Wish they made race bearings for the 7m but its probably best to run duraglides vs race anyways if its a street car. I haven't measured their clearance with a polished stock crank, but i'll make sure to post those numbers. I'm looking for around .0020" clearance on rods and mains. Might need to coat the bearings if its too loose or possibly buy a brand new crankshaft. I also want to post the balancing blueprint to show how much off a stock 7M balance is when using lighter pistons and rods when doing modern dynamic balancing.
Engine lab seems pretty knowledgable. They have done plenty of 7M's. Page 7 has pics of the head they did for me. They matched up the valve job pretty well to my port work, but next time im gonna have them bore the valve seats before I port. Unless you're really specific they might call you back and ask. They have done that several times for me. I gave them a torque plate but without the spacers so asked for those. Some things they just did correctly without asking like putting normal viton stem seals on in take and high temp's on exhaust valves. They also did head straightening without asking as apart of the head reconditioning.
Monday I am finally getting my coated j&e asymmetrical pistons and going back in to engine lab with my torque plate spacers, clutch, ati damper, rods and pistons to have them finally do the machine work.
I should be putting the engine together beginning of feb. I will probably give more details then.
Meanwhile im trying to scramble all the parts I will need to get the engine together. Im going with ACL duraglide bearings. They are the best bearings for the 7M....one step below race bearings. Wish they made race bearings for the 7m but its probably best to run duraglides vs race anyways if its a street car. I haven't measured their clearance with a polished stock crank, but i'll make sure to post those numbers. I'm looking for around .0020" clearance on rods and mains. Might need to coat the bearings if its too loose or possibly buy a brand new crankshaft. I also want to post the balancing blueprint to show how much off a stock 7M balance is when using lighter pistons and rods when doing modern dynamic balancing.
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Good to hear about the TIG and the machine shop. I have been dying for a TIG machine for quite sometime now, but I haven't been able to find one within my budget.
I am up here in TN and the machine shop that worked on my motor kind of scared me a bit with their lack of knowledge of the motor. After reading through all your posts, I am kinda worried that the idiots up here screwed something up, especially since I am starting to get valve chatter on a brand new motor. I need to find time to check the valve lash.
I am up here in TN and the machine shop that worked on my motor kind of scared me a bit with their lack of knowledge of the motor. After reading through all your posts, I am kinda worried that the idiots up here screwed something up, especially since I am starting to get valve chatter on a brand new motor. I need to find time to check the valve lash.
Got my pistons finally :> Stock next to one of them :>
stock piston 369g
stock rod 728g
stock pin 119g
je piston 293g
pauter rod 666g
je .210" wall heavy duty pin 133g
overall 11% lighter and infinitely stronger? :>
stock piston 369g
stock rod 728g
stock pin 119g
je piston 293g
pauter rod 666g
je .210" wall heavy duty pin 133g
overall 11% lighter and infinitely stronger? :>
If anyone is wondering, yes im retaining the clover leaf casting in the combustion chamber. Decided to give the clover leaf a try based on my talks with a few people and the fact custom pistons would take forever to get. Its probably not worth the added flow to be honest anyways unless im going for 1500whp. Ive been told cloverleaf sacrifices top end flow for better quench and low to mid range torque. Torque wins races and horsepower sells cars as they say. Just need to figure out a gasket thickness that puts quench near .040". Alot of material was taken off the head so I may end up with cr of around 9.5:1 which im fine with since e85 loves it.
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Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
The only thing that effects quench is taking material from the block not the head
Taking from the head just effects the cc's of the chamber and timing
The clover leaf is there for mainly emissions since the 7m never had a egr in japan
Taking from the head just effects the cc's of the chamber and timing
The clover leaf is there for mainly emissions since the 7m never had a egr in japan
ca91mkIII;1985631 said:
I'm an electrician and their is no way in hell 110volts could run any welder haha, but the plugs for them are cheap about ~10$ and then you need 10 gauge wire minumum (I usually use the orange jacket stuff for Air Conditioners) and atleast a 40 amp breaker. Putting it in the panel is easy but if you don't know what your doing I wouldn't recommend it especially if you have an old panel that is a rats nest. If it's clean and professional looking inside though it's not bad because it's only 3 wires, two powers and your ground. (you use both the white and black as power wires on the breaker and no neutral) the bare copper wires goes to the green ground screws.
p.s. I enjoy reading this thread everytime I come back to it I learn something new. I've also been told balancing motors is a joke but like you said once you get into high horsepower applications it needs to be done. I think the problem is where I live everyone only builds V8's and knows nothing about turbo's and inline six's. Another reason why I think people give up on 7M's is because they people working on them half-ass it and next thing you know they get another BHG when it was preventable with care.
Beals, inverters dont need as much power but are very limited on 110. It is possible to make welds on my machine with 110 as long as you arent doing anything too thick.
I do have to agree, if you get caught in a redneck shop you could get burnt on your 7M but that goes for any inline 6 or import engine. If you just look around and ask some basic questions then you will find a good local machine shop. It's not impossible just requires some investigation. Building a good 7M isn't that hard but its alot harder than bolting in Jay Zed.
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I do have to agree, if you get caught in a redneck shop you could get burnt on your 7M but that goes for any inline 6 or import engine. If you just look around and ask some basic questions then you will find a good local machine shop. It's not impossible just requires some investigation. Building a good 7M isn't that hard but its alot harder than bolting in Jay Zed.
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NashMan;1986129 said:
Cloverleaf is NOT for emissions. Its the opposite infact. Its a design to reduce detonation mainly to get more out of pump gas but it also helps swirl and promote a more even burn....equates to more torque. On e85 that means I can just run even higher static compression and push e85 further than a hemispheric chamber.
I understand removing material from the head doesnt affect quench and only the gasket and block height does - was refering to the increased C/R which is gonna be pretty high up there if im gonna use a 1.4 - 1.6mm mhg.
eraezer;1986146 said:
Yea, tumble....thats what I meant. Sorta the same effect. Thats what I need...some tumbling.
Man, just realizing how this entire thing is a giant experiment. Never built something this insane. Most difficult thing is listening to various conflicting opinions of people and having to decide whats gonna work best for me. I hope this works out.
If u guys want to know how insane this has gotten...I spent 25k on parts and 8k on tools so far. I dont even have an engine yet or turned a bolt on the car itself. I think I have 3k in waste from buying stuff and taking a loss from changing my mind about it. Am I nuts? Lol
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It will be worth it when this thing fires up afer 8 years sitting and sound like a pissed off dragon awaking from its slumber.
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NegativeGeForce;1986147 said:
Sorry to be a PITA, but it's pretty far from each other, tumble and swirl. Swirl in an otto engine will promote terrible combustion.
Every hobby costs money, at least this hobby will have something to show for it. So no, your not nuts.
Hahaha Yea you're definitely a pita. Ok so i cant get my terminalogy right but you know what i mean...spinning the air...making it go round and round. Lol
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Yes and swirl is spinning the air around the y-axis while tumble is spinning the air around the x-axis
final post about this, promise
final post about this, promise
If I remember correctly the side's of the chamber are for tumble and swirl Swirl for intake and tumble for comperssion which then leads to squish don't remember after that to cleary to commentNegativeGeForce;1986137 said:
Pent clover leaf is to raise comp ratio and help with emissions( nox being the biggest one) for a better cooler burn that's it in nut shell side effect is poor for flow.
If you have a hemi head they suffer from high nox but a hotter burn which runs cleaner. some what like the open pent roof but it has more squish.
comment away in case I messed up or missed some thing but this what they smashed in my head at school and many books I have read over the years
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I am going to be ccing my head coming up here since my valves just came in
kinda neat to see the difference
kinda neat to see the difference