ran across a problem.....
- Thread starter gixxer750
- Start date
Its pretty much stock head and block...(head surface was just mainly polished as was the block) with a .051 head gasket... Like I said, the thing is about maybe 1-3 degrees off... So if I move it another degree it should make some more power...right? I'm just trying to get kind of a rough tune done tomorrow...
I'm not sure which set of holes is advanced and which is retarded sorry.
I do mine with a degree wheel bolted to the crank but haven't done a 7M yet.
You could do the bum dyno thing and see if you can feel a difference in settings.
That's the beauty on a non interference engine like ours no chance of bending a valve.
here's the disclaimer though: Personally I WOULDN'T put in anywhere near a dyno without correcting it as it's such a harsh environment for an engine.
I do mine with a degree wheel bolted to the crank but haven't done a 7M yet.
You could do the bum dyno thing and see if you can feel a difference in settings.
That's the beauty on a non interference engine like ours no chance of bending a valve.
here's the disclaimer though: Personally I WOULDN'T put in anywhere near a dyno without correcting it as it's such a harsh environment for an engine.
I should be able to see the offset with the bolt and washer off, right? So, line the cam mark up with zero, see what way it needs to move with the timing belt still on, pull the belt, move the dowel pin, and try that. How much power difference does 1 or two degrees of cam timing make? This motor feels like it is definetly down a little power... I'm not sure how much of that is from compression loss(cleaned all the carbon off the pistons+thicker head gasket) and how much loss is from cam timing itself.
well, my exhaust cam is off just a hair to the left.... so I need to go with the 2 oclock one....I think
Points learned so far.....I think
A .051 head gasket on a an almost stock height head and block raises the head ?
That should clock both cams slightly right ?
I need to put the pins in the 2 oclock holes and reset the cam timing as close as possible(and maybe pull the belt a hair tighter to get them even closer)?
That sound right to you guys?
A .051 head gasket on a an almost stock height head and block raises the head ?
That should clock both cams slightly right ?
I need to put the pins in the 2 oclock holes and reset the cam timing as close as possible(and maybe pull the belt a hair tighter to get them even closer)?
That sound right to you guys?
to me, it would seem that the two oclock holes will shift the cams further to the right. There is nothing between the oil pulley and the intake cam, so you can't do much about the right side with tension, it all slacks up on the exhaust side, and the tensioner eats it. With the cams cocked to the right, that advances them a tad. Putting the gear in the 2 oclock hole moves the GEAR to the left, which actually moves the cam to the right. (the holes are closer in the cam, so gear shifts left when pin is in right hole) So you should place the pin in the right (10 Oclock) hole to shift the gear to the right, and the cam to the left. Unless, when you fixed the timing, you shifted the cams one tooth to the right, and now they're retarded. Then you should either pull them a tooth and put the pin in the left, or leave them there and put the pin in the right.
I'm tired.
I'm tired.
Gixx: I think stock compresses to 1.27 mm (sticks in my head for some reason)
This is why I asked earlier how is the head higher as most times it ends up lower through machining.
This is why I asked earlier how is the head higher as most times it ends up lower through machining.
I had a similar problem when I redid my headgasket. It turns out when I put the Timing Belt back on, I started with the exhaust side and went to the intake side so any slack in the belt was between the crankshaft and the intake cam instead of the other side where the tensioner was. Once the crang starts turning, it throws off the timing on the cams by about 1/2 a tooth on the belt. I didn't think it made much of a difference when I did it the first time but it does.
well, I retimed the cams with the dowels in the 10 oclock hole, and the car seemed to run better.....so I let the guys put it on the dyno. Apparently there is still something WAY wrong.... because the below graphs speak for themselves...
anyone see problems here? I finally got the boost to stay somewhat constant, but the power just falls off.... My tuner says it seems to be an igniton or timing problem... He tuned it to 11.5 A/F across the board with little variance.
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