hurry up and get that crank pulley on man jeeze. call the fire department and tell them to bring the jaws of life lol
Project Clean 87
- Thread starter honestabe
- Start date
Well as a select few of you know, I got my ATI crank pulley hub stuck on my crank (thanks to ATI making the hub too tight to fit). In the process of trying to get the hub off I broke a brand new $90 caged 5-ton puller, and got the cap that goes on the end of the puller jammed inside the crank snout. With the help of Trevor, 10+ hours of cutting, and 4 or 5 cutoff wheels, we were able to get the hub off my crank. In the process though we accidently nicked the timing belt, cut the timing gear that goes on the crank, and cut the ring that holds the gear on. Oh yeah, and we had to break my lower timing cover to be able to cut the entire hub off (that will make for 3 replacement timing covers this year, the first 2 due to my crank pulley failures). I spent 2 hours today with a dremel sanding drum (well, 6 or so drums) sanding out the stupid cap that goes on the end of the 5-ton caged puller that I broke trying to remove my ATI crank hub. I had to sand a notch out of the piece (after drilling it out the best I could) and then use a hammer and punch to rotate the piece around enough times so that it became loose enough to pull out.
I've already spoken with ATI about this issue and I will take measurements of my crank and then have them hone and trim the hub so it properly fits. Of course I have to shell out atleast another $140 for this replacement hub (on top of the $350 I already spent to buy the whole crank pulley). This blows chunks and my Supra hates me.
I've already spoken with ATI about this issue and I will take measurements of my crank and then have them hone and trim the hub so it properly fits. Of course I have to shell out atleast another $140 for this replacement hub (on top of the $350 I already spent to buy the whole crank pulley). This blows chunks and my Supra hates me.
Well I cut the timing belt off today and bought a new one, along with a tap for my crank (18x1.50 btw). I then removed the timing gear, which was a pain in the ass and took a bit of work and some assembly grease to remove, and tapped the crank end to clean up the threads. Lastly, to repair the accidental damage to the crank, I mixed up a batch of JB Weld and filled in the cuts. I'm going to let the JB Weld cure for a day or so, then sand it until it's flush and smooth with the crank. Probably use 400 and 600 grit sand paper. I consulted with a couple master mechanics (including my father who professionally worked on cars for 24 years, and had to retire because of an injury 8 years ago) about the damage to the crank and they said the JB Weld should be fine, especially considering that it will be encased in 1/4" of high grade forged steel (ATI hub). Here's pics.
After I sand down the JB Weld so that it's flush with the edge of my crank the difference in weight will be extremely small. This is exactly what my ATI Super Damper is designed for, to balance the crank 
Pardon?honestabe;1638761 said:After I sand down the JB Weld so that it's flush with the edge of my crank the difference in weight will be extremely small. This is exactly what my ATI Super Damper is designed for, to balance the crank
(the hint is in it's name)
:evil2: dampener ? that is super at its job? although how much out of balance are you going to get when the metal missing is from the front vs the crank weights? and the amount is a pretty small amount that was missing, it looks like alot with that jb weld on it though lol
northwestsupra;1638813 said:
Yep, very little to do with "Balance" on our engines as they're internally balanced
The PMoI is so low that close into the centerline of the crank I doubt you could measure a difference in balance even without the JB Weld in place.
IJ.;1638814 said:Yep, very little to do with "Balance" on our engines as they're internally balanced
The PMoI is so low that close into the centerline of the crank I doubt you could measure a difference in balance even without the JB Weld in place.
so then his fix will be fine correct, never seen jb be used for this lol. But i think it says on the side of the box it can be used on rods lol.
correction, right from JB's site
AUTOS, MOTORCYCLES, MECHANICAL
fuel tanks
radiators
cracked engine blocks
transmission & rear-end casings
cylinder heads & sleeves
generators, starters, water & fuel pumps
axles & hubs
valve guides
press fit bearings
crankshaft pulleys
casting defects
door stops
key ways
stripped threads
body shop repairs
Dunno, never used it but I did inherit an engine that had that repair done with DevconA Ti epoxy......
They just splooged it on the snout installed the damper and bolted it down...
Trouble came trying to pull the Damper, totally trashed the engine getting it apart and destroyed 2 pullers :nono:
Think I would have used a cheesegrater file on it before it had set up fully to get it close to the desired shape as it's going to be a bitch to work when hardened...
They just splooged it on the snout installed the damper and bolted it down...
Trouble came trying to pull the Damper, totally trashed the engine getting it apart and destroyed 2 pullers :nono:
Think I would have used a cheesegrater file on it before it had set up fully to get it close to the desired shape as it's going to be a bitch to work when hardened...
lol crankshaft pulley is the closest thing on that whole list, well he gonna sand it down at least, although i dont know how well jb weld sands lol, probably just start it with a flap sander then measure it around to make sure its "round" I have the tool for that Adam if you dont.
---------- Post added at 05:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:12 PM ----------
never heard of that as a technical term lol, wouldnt be talking about a coarse file. like i said a flap sander would speed the process up, i know he had one for his metal grinder
---------- Post added at 05:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:15 PM ----------
lol how well you think jb weld would as threads? ill admit i have used jb weld for "ghetto" uses before, like my fuel tank sump is welded but had micro cracks that were causing leaks, so we sealed it all the way around with jb weld and then rubber coated it lol, and to top it off it looks better with the jb on there cause you can use a heat gun and it will smooth it out so it blends a little better, my return on the tank is also JB welded on to and i've put some serious force on that fitting and still hasnt came off. so its good stuff as long as you prep the surface for it.
then measure it around to make sure its "round" I have the tool for that Adam if you dont.---------- Post added at 05:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:12 PM ----------
IJ.;1638817 said:
never heard of that as a technical term lol, wouldnt be talking about a coarse file. like i said a flap sander would speed the process up, i know he had one for his metal grinder
---------- Post added at 05:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:15 PM ----------
lol how well you think jb weld would as threads? ill admit i have used jb weld for "ghetto" uses before, like my fuel tank sump is welded but had micro cracks that were causing leaks, so we sealed it all the way around with jb weld and then rubber coated it lol, and to top it off it looks better with the jb on there cause you can use a heat gun and it will smooth it out so it blends a little better, my return on the tank is also JB welded on to and i've put some serious force on that fitting and still hasnt came off. so its good stuff as long as you prep the surface for it.
Nope I'm talking about a Cheesegrater file, commonly used for Bondo and works exactly like a cheesegrater
Personally wouldn't use it for anything other than emergency repairs and never on a thread, that's what Keenserts/Helicoils are for.
Personally wouldn't use it for anything other than emergency repairs and never on a thread, that's what Keenserts/Helicoils are for.
Most of the JB Weld I put on will be coming off when I sand it down. I just put on a good coat to make sure I don't have any low spots. I do have a decent collection of files to use on it (which I think I'm going to do here in a minute). Like you said, the difference in weight, especially where it is, is really minor. I'm not concerned about it. When I eventually rebuild my motor, I'll replace the crank with an unmolested one and have it lightened and knife edged and balanced. Hell, I'm picking up a spare motor here shortly that has everything I need to do a rebuild without having to pull apart my motor (although when that motor is eventually ready on the inside I'll have to swap over everything that bolts onto the outside of the motor).
Ian, I feel your pain. Getting the ATI hub off was a massive PITA that broke my cheap $10 puller along with a $90 caged 5-ton puller.
Ian, I feel your pain. Getting the ATI hub off was a massive PITA that broke my cheap $10 puller along with a $90 caged 5-ton puller.
IJ.;1638822 said:Nope I'm talking about a Cheesegrater file, commonly used for Bondo and works exactly like a cheesegrater
Personally wouldn't use it for anything other than emergency repairs and never on a thread, that's what Keenserts/Helicoils are for.
cheese graters are for cheese you weirdo lol jk. dont forget time-sert
Its possible to find emery cloth TAPE and do it by hand with shoe-shiner-like motion.
That'd help keep the smoothing action even.
I'll vouch that JB weld can hold up to some crazy tasks:
A brass feed port on a chainsaw carburetor busted off the nylon plate that gets sandwiched between the venturi and throat and does the delicate stuff for distributing fuel (diaphragms/needle mixture valves/screens).
JB weld put that port back on and the saw saw 5 more years of work, holding that brass to that nylon enduring vibration, gasoline, and what not.
On my build, the machinist determined that the paint inside the ATI hub needed to be honed off to achieve clearance for the dampener to have a chance at fitting.
The first 1/4" will engage. After that a puller is needed (aka bolt) to pull the dampener in place.
And I've removed it twice, the 2 jaw puller I was using was nearly successful in bending the lip of the belt divider on the dampener.
So i guess the trick is to lightly hone, with a taper right at the lip so it'll start.
My initial question of prepping for install was my wondering if you did the "dampener in boiling water" install method.
If it wasn't hard work, it wouldn't be worth the effort
That'd help keep the smoothing action even.
I'll vouch that JB weld can hold up to some crazy tasks:
A brass feed port on a chainsaw carburetor busted off the nylon plate that gets sandwiched between the venturi and throat and does the delicate stuff for distributing fuel (diaphragms/needle mixture valves/screens).
JB weld put that port back on and the saw saw 5 more years of work, holding that brass to that nylon enduring vibration, gasoline, and what not.
On my build, the machinist determined that the paint inside the ATI hub needed to be honed off to achieve clearance for the dampener to have a chance at fitting.
The first 1/4" will engage. After that a puller is needed (aka bolt) to pull the dampener in place.
And I've removed it twice, the 2 jaw puller I was using was nearly successful in bending the lip of the belt divider on the dampener.
So i guess the trick is to lightly hone, with a taper right at the lip so it'll start.
My initial question of prepping for install was my wondering if you did the "dampener in boiling water" install method.
If it wasn't hard work, it wouldn't be worth the effort
Might I recommend removing the outer portion of the pulley and then using the puller on the hub? I'll be giving ATI my specs shortly. Yes I did try boiling the hub in water, but the hub was just too small (as demonstrated by how much I had to do to pull it off).
I didn't disassemble the dampener before hand and don't want to open that can of worms in-car.
There just isn't working room in the car like that lol
There just isn't working room in the car like that lol