Here are all the details for your new Probe Industries Forged Pistons!
The following applies to ALL sets of pistons:
THE PISTON RINGS WILL REQUIRE A VERY SPECIFIC FINISH IN THE BORES TO SEAT PROPERLY.
Standard size pistons are in actuality, 0.003" oversize from stock. This is to allow your machinist room to properly hone the block, to get your piston to wall clearances proper.
The .020" and .040" are already oversize, so should present no problem for those of you (like myself) planning on boring the block anyway.
Tell your machinist you are running a chrome steel top ring, so you want a 220-280-400 stepped plateau finish, with a 30 degree crosshatch.
If you are not comfortable with running a chrome steel top ring, then you are free to use any other ring you wish. Remember that the top ring is 1.2mm thick, in whatever diameter you ordered your piston in. For what it's worth, I will be happily running a chrome top ring.
For those planning to run 450-500rwhp and under:
This would be for you guys planning on running an upgraded CT26, or even a larger bolt on, but staying under 500rwhp -
I'd recommend a .0032" piston to wall clearance. If you KNOW you'll be at 500rwhp, I might even say a .0035" clearance.
I'd also recommend a .016"-.018" top ring gap, and .018"-.020" 2nd ring gap, followed with a .013" oil ring gap.
For those planning to run 500+ rwhp:
This would be the group I belong to (and I know some of you others are planning on being here!)
I'm going to run a .0035-.004" piston-wall clearance. I'm going to be running a .020" top ring gap, with a .022" 2nd ring, with a .015" oil ring gap. (I'll be running a PTE67 @ 20-24psi boost, with a 100 shot on top, just to give you an idea of the pressures I intend to deal with)
These are 2618 alloy pistons, so there should be some expansion, but not a whole lot from them.
Also, if you are concerned about the thickness (or lack thereof) around the valve pockets, you can safely take that wall out, with no problems. I'll be removing mine, I know
Any questions, feel free to ask!
The following applies to ALL sets of pistons:
THE PISTON RINGS WILL REQUIRE A VERY SPECIFIC FINISH IN THE BORES TO SEAT PROPERLY.
Standard size pistons are in actuality, 0.003" oversize from stock. This is to allow your machinist room to properly hone the block, to get your piston to wall clearances proper.
The .020" and .040" are already oversize, so should present no problem for those of you (like myself) planning on boring the block anyway.
Tell your machinist you are running a chrome steel top ring, so you want a 220-280-400 stepped plateau finish, with a 30 degree crosshatch.
If you are not comfortable with running a chrome steel top ring, then you are free to use any other ring you wish. Remember that the top ring is 1.2mm thick, in whatever diameter you ordered your piston in. For what it's worth, I will be happily running a chrome top ring.
For those planning to run 450-500rwhp and under:
This would be for you guys planning on running an upgraded CT26, or even a larger bolt on, but staying under 500rwhp -
I'd recommend a .0032" piston to wall clearance. If you KNOW you'll be at 500rwhp, I might even say a .0035" clearance.
I'd also recommend a .016"-.018" top ring gap, and .018"-.020" 2nd ring gap, followed with a .013" oil ring gap.
For those planning to run 500+ rwhp:
This would be the group I belong to (and I know some of you others are planning on being here!)
I'm going to run a .0035-.004" piston-wall clearance. I'm going to be running a .020" top ring gap, with a .022" 2nd ring, with a .015" oil ring gap. (I'll be running a PTE67 @ 20-24psi boost, with a 100 shot on top, just to give you an idea of the pressures I intend to deal with)
These are 2618 alloy pistons, so there should be some expansion, but not a whole lot from them.
Also, if you are concerned about the thickness (or lack thereof) around the valve pockets, you can safely take that wall out, with no problems. I'll be removing mine, I know
Any questions, feel free to ask!