Ok all, I need to know what type of lube do you all Put on your Pistons, Cylinder walls, Rod and Main Bearings before you torque everything down. Basically, So you dont have Dry Startup on a freshly rebuilt Engine.
Robert
Robert
Pre-lube Suggestions
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Someone told me that there was a Specific type Lube that you were to use so everything spins freely. When I put a Breaker bar on the Crank and turn it, Its Extremely tight but this was before I put any Lube on anything. Pulled the motor back out, and in the Process of lubing everything. I was wondering why a Brand New Battery couldnt get it to turn over..
Robert
Robert
no lube makes baby jesus and your partner cry! not to mention your 7M!!!
In the past I have used this moly stuff that comes in a little tube on everything
In the past I have used this moly stuff that comes in a little tube on everything
Go to the pars store and buy Lucas oil stabilizer, comes in a white bottle thing. It's like oil, but won't break down as fast. It's more like honey so it sticks well to the pieces you apply to.
eric
eric
I've used Red Line Assembly Lube on all bearings and camshafts very liberally. The stuff is reddish pink and you can get it at any parts store. It sticks to everything but is oil soluble and you'll be rid of it after your first oil change. Just make sure everything is spotless because dirt will stick to the stuff. I use straight 10W/30 on the piston rings and cylinder walls during assembly.
supraguy31 said:
If your motor was that tight, you might have a clearence issue. The motor should spin freely even with light lube on it. If you still have the motor out double check the bearing clearences with plastigage, it will save you a big headache in the end.
Lubriplate 105 is what the proffessionals, such as myself, use for lube on the bearing surfaces. Nothing on the cylinder wall. You are trying to seat the rings, not lube them.
I used lubraplate for years ..BUT .. this is the stuff to use now .. Lucas oil treatment .... http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=25&catid=2&loc=show its bar NONE ... the best .
It has to be rough, it has to set the rings. If it glided smoothly the rings wouldn't set properly and you could enjoy oil blowby for the life of your motor yay!
eric
eric
Clevite 77 made an assembly lube in a squeeze bottle that works very well for me. I have used it in every thing from my race bikes, 7m's, small engines, to all the diesels at work. Always worked well for me. Just choose one that has a proven track record.
So Nick, if someone knows they'll be taking a long time to complete a build, and they're trying to minimize rust forming on the cylinder walls, so have applied oil to the rings/pistons for that purpose alone, what would you recommend to remove the oil before assembly is complete? I'm thinking brake cleaner or carby cleaner.Nick M said:
Dont use motor oil as it burns and turns to carbon all in your rings on startup.WD-40 FTW!! just dont let the motor sit to long before you start it
As others have said use an assembly lube. Redline assembly lube info: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp?subCategoryID=7
BTW, Check your PM inbox.
BTW, Check your PM inbox.
mickyg said:
I haven't been in that situation. When a block was returned from the machine shop, the customer has usually been waiting a week or so already. It is assembled the next day, or later that day depending on when it is returned.
WD40 and a plastic bag I guess. I suggest not machining it if you are not ready to assemble.
So definitely clean it all off in my case then. Before I put the head back on, I'll make sure the bores and rings are dry. Thanks for the advice!
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