step 1c
COAT PISTON PIN IN OIL
never install parts "dry" the pistons should have a light coat of oil and even some moly on the skirts!
Pre-lube Suggestions
- Thread starter supraguy31
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step 1c
COAT PISTON PIN IN OIL
never install parts "dry" the pistons should have a light coat of oil and even some moly on the skirts!
*I* do the following:
Never soak/coat the rings. You can get carbon behind the ring which will force it out to the cylinder wall and it may not seat right. I wipe the cyl walls with straight 30 weight and a lint free cloth, and immediately install pistons. Assembly lube is manditory for all bearing surfaces. Moly on ARP hardware to ARP spec, and standard oil on the Toyota speced bolts.
Never, ever rotate a bearing assembly without lube. If you use plastic gauge, the entire bearing must be clean and dry. Mineral spirits on a rag will quickly remove all plastic gauge. Green scotchbright pad will remove any burrs from a bearing.
Edit: If I have to store a motor, I prefer not to build it. I use a fogging oil to store for long term and pay $30 to have it chem/hot tanked clean again immediately before building. Oil attracts dirt, dirt will kill a close clearance motor like the 7M in short time.
Never soak/coat the rings. You can get carbon behind the ring which will force it out to the cylinder wall and it may not seat right. I wipe the cyl walls with straight 30 weight and a lint free cloth, and immediately install pistons. Assembly lube is manditory for all bearing surfaces. Moly on ARP hardware to ARP spec, and standard oil on the Toyota speced bolts.
Never, ever rotate a bearing assembly without lube. If you use plastic gauge, the entire bearing must be clean and dry. Mineral spirits on a rag will quickly remove all plastic gauge. Green scotchbright pad will remove any burrs from a bearing.
Edit: If I have to store a motor, I prefer not to build it. I use a fogging oil to store for long term and pay $30 to have it chem/hot tanked clean again immediately before building. Oil attracts dirt, dirt will kill a close clearance motor like the 7M in short time.
Jaguar_5 said:
Pretty much. Usually the bearing is fit dry and tight to the block. Then lube. If one is loose, it won't transfer heat properly. In reality - oil sneaks back there but you really want to make sure the bearings aren't loose in thier journals/rods prior to and during assembly.
The TSRM expects a certain level of training and knowledge. Not everything is spelled out. That is why there is not a mention of oiling a piston. When it returns from its bore and hone, you clean it with soap and water, then dry it. Then assemble your shortblock.
This is why it also does not mention to put assembly lube on the bearing surface. Even though TSRM does not spell it out, you still do it.
Oiling it won't really hurt anything. Do it if it makes you feel better. Most of the oil will be wiped by the oil ring anyway.
There are no stupid questions except those that are still asking about code 51 or 52.
The backs of the bearing do not get lubed. They are notched so it does not move, and locks in place.
This is why it also does not mention to put assembly lube on the bearing surface. Even though TSRM does not spell it out, you still do it.
Oiling it won't really hurt anything. Do it if it makes you feel better. Most of the oil will be wiped by the oil ring anyway.
There are no stupid questions except those that are still asking about code 51 or 52.
The backs of the bearing do not get lubed. They are notched so it does not move, and locks in place.
starscream5000 said:Try lubing it up with KY jelly........jk.
I was wondering when somebody would make this crack...LOL :biglaugh:
Hey, I couldn't help it. I was reading through it, and nobody had said it yet, it was begging itself to be said. Plus I was a little reliever from all of the tech talk.
Reason I asked is because the engine was put back together totally dry. Tried to turn the crank with a Breaker bar and it was reaaly tight to turn. Doing everything to it now, Will let you know how it comes out
Robert
Robert
Someone Explain this ring gap thing to me, When I bought the forged Pistons, I also bought the rings that go with them for the Size overbore I have. Why would I need to check the ring gap. If so, How is this gone correctly.
Robert
Robert
supraguy31 said:
ohhhh noooooooooooooo :aigo:
i'm off to work i'll let someone else give you the bad news!
The gap is probably ok *if* the machine shop did a proper bore, and you don't have a taper problem.
You put the ring in the bore and push it down with the piston upside down and check the gap between the ends with a feeler gauge. Before assembly.
You put the ring in the bore and push it down with the piston upside down and check the gap between the ends with a feeler gauge. Before assembly.
i dont see how u would want to put pistons in a dry bore. y are tehre oil squirters and hole in the rods if oil on the cylindert walls are a bad thing.
and if there is still oil in the cylinder when i fire it up for the first time, within a matter of seconds it burnt away, i realy dont believe that in a matter of seconds it will carbon up the rings and cause oil consumption.
i also cant see it lenthening the ring breakin period, when its already quite short. ring break in is for the most part over within the first 500-1000 miles. the bottom ring is the oil scraper so idk how having oil on the bore when u put the piston it can hurt the breakin time on the rings when the only one REALLY subjected to oil is the oil ring. also from the oil squirters and the holes in the rods, its also constanylt spraying oil into the bottom of the bores. any time theres oil pressure.
and if there is still oil in the cylinder when i fire it up for the first time, within a matter of seconds it burnt away, i realy dont believe that in a matter of seconds it will carbon up the rings and cause oil consumption.
i also cant see it lenthening the ring breakin period, when its already quite short. ring break in is for the most part over within the first 500-1000 miles. the bottom ring is the oil scraper so idk how having oil on the bore when u put the piston it can hurt the breakin time on the rings when the only one REALLY subjected to oil is the oil ring. also from the oil squirters and the holes in the rods, its also constanylt spraying oil into the bottom of the bores. any time theres oil pressure.
A little bird on a wire mentioned to me that the aftermarket rings need adjustment. You probably had to file them.
Any lube you put on the cylinder wall will be scraped off by that bottom ring, that is correct. There will be a small amount left in the hatch mark, by design. The oil squirter on the bottom of the piston aids in cooling the piston, not lubing it. Lubing the cylinder wall won't hurt anything, it just won't help.
And I promise, Toytoa engines are not broke in at 500-1000 miles. Well, if you use aftermarket rings, pistons, and bearings I can not comment on that one.
Any lube you put on the cylinder wall will be scraped off by that bottom ring, that is correct. There will be a small amount left in the hatch mark, by design. The oil squirter on the bottom of the piston aids in cooling the piston, not lubing it. Lubing the cylinder wall won't hurt anything, it just won't help.
And I promise, Toytoa engines are not broke in at 500-1000 miles. Well, if you use aftermarket rings, pistons, and bearings I can not comment on that one.
Everything needs to be removed and checked. Especially the cylinhder bores due to the oversized rings being used. ALL oversized (except toyota rings) require file fitting prior to installation. This takes many hours to do and is a very tedious process. I had to buy 2 new rings due to me taking too much off of one of the compression rings.
NEVER spin a newly assembled motor without hte use of assembly lube. I really like the redline assembly lube. I've used it on 3 motors thus far and have had zero problems. It works great, and greater shear strength compared to other white lithium and dissolves completly into oil.
I always wipe some oil on the pistons, and bores and rings prior to dropping the piston into the bore. Any oil left in the combustion chamber will be burnt after the first few combustion cycles.
NEVER spin a newly assembled motor without hte use of assembly lube. I really like the redline assembly lube. I've used it on 3 motors thus far and have had zero problems. It works great, and greater shear strength compared to other white lithium and dissolves completly into oil.
I always wipe some oil on the pistons, and bores and rings prior to dropping the piston into the bore. Any oil left in the combustion chamber will be burnt after the first few combustion cycles.
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