Okay guys...I need help..ALOT of help

[7MSupraGE87na]

Thank you Cuel I'm going to go check it right now, and I'll come back with the results

Edit: Results are in, I'm throwing a 41 AND a 12...the 41 kind of scares me. The 12 I don't know what I should do to fix it...

 

[soundwave2000]

If you haven't fixed your fan yet, try it this way, this is how i wired mine and similar to how I wired ms07s' fans.

 

[7MSupraGE87na]

If you haven't fixed your fan yet, try it this way, this is how i wired mine and similar to how I wired ms07s' fans.

I havn't fixed it yet. Is there a way you could explain the diagram to me? Wireing diagrams are like trying to read chinease (no offense to anyone) I don't understand it at all.

I'll try and describe how it is right now and not working.

I have a toggle switch in the dash right below my stereo. A wire runs from that through the fire wall to a splitter thing (im spacing on what its called) From that splitter thing i have two wires that run to the negative side of the battery. I also have a fourth wire runing to the fan itself which is spliced together with the AC fan. From there I have a wire that runs out to a fuse which is then connected to the negative side of the battery.

Thats how I understand diagrams lol...sorry if it makes it harder for you to help, but if you could tell me like that how your diagram works, thats be great!


Also for anyone else who is helping (thanks so much) I don't have any idea how to test the codes I got

Edit 2: Just something I noticed now while checking the diagnostic, I have alot of grease and oil residue inbetween the 2 valve covers...

 

[soundwave2000]

Hope this is easier to understand

 

[7MSupraGE87na]

Awesome! Thank you so much

Edit: I get to re-wire the entire fan electrical. There are so many extra wires. If I can take a picture of it I will post it up so someone can use it to help me out if need be. But there isn't a wire to connect to 30. I have the wire coming from the fuse going straight to the fan. I have 2 ground wires that look like they are supposed to go into the relay thing...eh...I'm going to be working on it tomorrow after work. So expect a lot of new posts and possibly pictures.

Edit 2: Okay I hooked everything up how you have it, and still no fan. I bought a new relay switch, and I know the fan works fine, so I have a faulty wire somewhere... so it looks like I'm off to a hardware store to buy wires... any suggestion on the type of wires?

 

[soundwave2000]

any suggestion on the type of wires?

the wire going from the batt to fuse, then fuse to relay, then relay to fan and fan ground should be at least 10ga, the rest can be any automotive grade 14-16ga

 

[Imagination6788]

I dunno about the rest of your problems, but my Supra has never liked going into first gear while I was over 2 mph. I asked my dad about and he said it was like that since the day he got it with 2 miles on it. Also, mine doesn't like reverse when I'm rolling, but again it's done that since it was new. I even had the transmission replaced a few years ago and it still does it. So, I think it's just a design thing, probably has to due with the gear ratios, that the force is to great on reverse and first.

 

[7MSupraGE87na]

Thanks everyone for help. As i found out just shortly after doing the oil change, NAPa sold me the wrong size oil filter. It must have held about a quart of oil, cuz it said i was low on my dipstick. I took it off and demanded the NAPA give me my money back as well as the correct filter. Apparently the one I was given was for a nissan sentra. I got my money back as well as the correct oil filter, but geez is it bigger then the one I had on there

 

[ms07s]

Any luck on your other problems? Pics of the wires? ready to help if I can.:biglaugh:

 

[7MSupraGE87na]

I can try to get some pictures, but they are blurry because my digital camera doesn't like to take pictures in daytime lol I also noticed some copper tubing that has been welded on those nipple things coming off of the valve covers. I will actually try right now to take some pictures and get back here and post them

 

[ms07s]

I can try to get some pictures, but they are blurry because my digital camera doesn't like to take pictures in daytime lol I also noticed some copper tubing that has been welded on those nipple things coming off of the valve covers. I will actually try right now to take some pictures and get back here and post them

I assume you mean the vents that dump into your intake......or at least thats what they do from factory. If so it's part of the positive crank-case ventalation system.

 

[7MSupraGE87na]

Well I got a picture of it, but it didn't upload to my computer. I am searching ebay for a used digital camera thats cheap something to get me some picture usage for further help.

The grinding into first gear has stopped. I don't know why it just stopped, not going to complain though. The engine fan, I am going to get new wires and then go from there. Once I get the new wires in I hope the fan will work...if not then its the toggle switch. I will replace the toggle switch to.

Changed the oil awhile ago didn't post any updates on it. The oil was not milky or had any trace of coolant in it. The coolant itself is nice and bright green. :biglaugh: :biglaugh: so no BHG yet for me.

Still no reading from the oil pressure guage. I don't know what to do about that. The ticking sound is gone with the new oil, so it seems just from over heating that one time it thinned my oil enough. New oil in = no ticking sound = me less worried = :biglaugh:

Whenever I get a decent camera I will post pictures of the beast for everyone. Once this engine goes I do plan on going na-t. So maybe next year you will see a build up thread from me :sarcasm:

 

[ms07s]

If you wire up the fan the way soundwave showed you you won't need a toggle switch. If your switch is fried that will also cause the fans to not work...trust me I know lol. Good to hear no BHG! I have been through one...it sucks pretty hard. Factory sending unit may be bad, the gauge itself, bad wires...or it may be unpluged! Factory water temp and oil pressure gauges are unreliable as the car is around 20 years old. I have autometer gauges for water and when I do my filter relocation and oil cooler upgrade I will have oil temp and pressure as well. All my cars are a work in progress till the day I sell :biglaugh:

 

[7MSupraGE87na]

Hmm.... see I tried wiring it the way that he showed me...but I thought it involved using the toggle switch.

 

[ms07s]

Just delete the toggle...it may be fried. Jump from the battery to the fan to check if the fans are still good as they may be fried....and check your inline fuse as it may have been popped as well. Then check your grounds make sure they are on good clean metal ....not a painted surface.

 

[7MSupraGE87na]

As promised pictures - my camera doesnt like the day lol...

:wtc:

toggle switch next to my antenna switch

that copper tubing on top of the nipple things, that I haven't seen on any of the engine bay pics on this forum

engine bay pic

the relay with wires...hard to see

pic of the front end of my worthless POS 240sx

and if someone or a mod can tell me how to make the pictures smaller...that would be awesome =]

 

[ms07s]

WOW! That is NOT the factory vent tube!!!!!! That is scarrrry lookin! Find one in the junk yard and ditch that thing!!!! Those toggles look way to small to reglate high voltage so they may have been fried in your first attempt. Was the car running in that pic of the oil gauge? oil gauge will not work with the car off If you wire the fans they way SW does it they will only be on when the car is on so, no need for a toggle.

O yea, you don't want loose wires around the belts they may get pulled in! Zip-ties ftw! Don't forget to check the fuse and jump the fans to see if they are still ok! Post back with any results.

I like your 240sx. Always wanted one for an rb swap:evil2:

 

[7MSupraGE87na]

Yea I kind of figured it was not stock lol. I have no idea where a supra would be...I know there aren't alot of supra's period in MN let alone in junk yards...maybe somebody on here could be nice enough to let me buy one cheap off a parts...

Is there anyway you could tell me how to wire it without the switch then? I used the diagram he gave me, but i thought it used the switch at 85 on the relay...

Edit: Oh yea and I had those wires in the fuse thinger, i just took them out to take a pic of them, they are far away from the belts, and yes zip ties are ftw.

That 240 ran fine for a while with no problems. Brought it in because I was throwing a code 25, then out of no where it started on fire when I was driving. Pulled over put the fire out, thought it caused no harm. Then found out later it had a cracked block and two cylinder walls were toast so i was sold for 1500. I want to get another one eventually, it was a fun little car. I had a sr20det in it

 

[7MSupraGE87na]

Oh and you know that canister thing on the passenger side of the car by the fire wall with a hose coming off of it? My hose is cut... I'll take a pic and post it.

More pictures of that copper tubing which is "the vent tubing"

This is the main reason why I need to buy new fog lights...the brown stuff is rust...it's attached by 1 screw, the rest has completely rusted away.

How do i wire the fan without using the switch??

 

[ms07s]

WOW.... fire = bad lol. Working at Honda I have seen a few burnt cars:sarcasm: . Um just wire it the same way with a 12 volt signal from the radio or ignition to the relay....its just a signal wire to tell the relay to switch on when the car is on. signal wire on your radio is the red one on your pioneer radio harness. It tells the radio to turn on it will do the same for the fan (even if the radio is off). The actual power comes off the battery to the relay then to the fan.

That tube off the valve covers vents crank case gasses back into the intake. It is necessary if you like to have oil in your car:biglaugh:

That is your charcoal canister and that is the vacum line that is supposed to go to it. it is supposed to attach to a metal line on the air flow meter(afm) then that attaches to a bi-metallic valve switchng valve(bvsv) blueish green with 2 nipples, on the thermostat housing then to the throttle body(you still have the rest just need one from canister to afm). That is just a part of the evap system for your fuel tank. It takes evaporated fuel and burns it in your motor. Just get some vac line at your local parts store and replace all of it. It will cost you all of $6 and fix lots of issues. just do it 1 peice at a time. :runaway: