adampecush;1461902 said:
Chill man, I was at work and didnt have time to go look it up. Who pissed in you frosted flakes this morning???
Thanks poodles for the link.
Oil pressure paranoia...
- Thread starter Kai
- Start date
Chill man, I was at work and didnt have time to go look it up. Who pissed in you frosted flakes this morning???
Thanks poodles for the link.
at least that you can see 
. The PPM level has to be quite high for it to be visible to the human eye. IIRC SC's sig has a link stating 400ppm will eat bearings. If you can see it, its into the 10,000+ PPM range.
. The PPM level has to be quite high for it to be visible to the human eye. IIRC SC's sig has a link stating 400ppm will eat bearings. If you can see it, its into the 10,000+ PPM range.
On my car, you can see where the oil has slowly been leaking into the cooling system from the hg. Its horrible. :aigo:
airhead04;1462042 said:
nobody pissed in my cornflakes. it is just that in the time it took you to type out your post, you could have typed "www.google.com" and "kpa to psi" and learned something.
If its such a big deal, then convert it yourself ; p
To those who are contributing, this is a great help since I am putting my freshly built motor in this weekend. I am paranoid about oil psi and bhg's lol
To those who are contributing, this is a great help since I am putting my freshly built motor in this weekend. I am paranoid about oil psi and bhg's lol
Yep! That's a good one too
You'll need the adapter for the stock gauge location...1/8" BSP iirc.
You'll need the adapter for the stock gauge location...1/8" BSP iirc.
Well, i've pushed myself to the absolute limit physically, trying to get this damn thing sorted out.
So far, i've done nothing of consequence, barring an oil change. Could i get the filter off? NO.
I needed to drive 73 miles (round trip), to pick up a tool that would fit on the Toyota filter. Of course, when i got back, i found out that not only was the filter thats on there NOT a Toyota filter (and therefore a different size), i couldn't jack the car up high enough for my damaged ass to squeeze under there. How the FUCK are you supposed to get that damn thing off? Cant reach it from the top to twist, and can't reach it from the bottom (as far as i can see). I wanted to remove the filter head, remove the whole damn unit, and unplug the oil cooler - but it's -6 outside, and i couldn't feel my fingers after about 10 minutes of fumbling in the freaking cramped space.
AARGH! I am NOT amused :nono:
However, i got the garage i borrowed the tool off to check the oil pressure with THEIR gauge - just to see where i stood. With the new load of 5w30 in there, here are the results:
Hot Idle: 5.2psi
1000rpm 8.3psi
2000rpm 23.0psi
3000rpm 27.4psi
4000rpm 32.7psi
5000rpm 36.5psi (fluctuated)
Clogged Filter, Worn Bearings, or Pressure Relief Valve? Place your bets.
So far, i've done nothing of consequence, barring an oil change. Could i get the filter off? NO.
I needed to drive 73 miles (round trip), to pick up a tool that would fit on the Toyota filter. Of course, when i got back, i found out that not only was the filter thats on there NOT a Toyota filter (and therefore a different size), i couldn't jack the car up high enough for my damaged ass to squeeze under there. How the FUCK are you supposed to get that damn thing off? Cant reach it from the top to twist, and can't reach it from the bottom (as far as i can see). I wanted to remove the filter head, remove the whole damn unit, and unplug the oil cooler - but it's -6 outside, and i couldn't feel my fingers after about 10 minutes of fumbling in the freaking cramped space.
AARGH! I am NOT amused :nono:
However, i got the garage i borrowed the tool off to check the oil pressure with THEIR gauge - just to see where i stood. With the new load of 5w30 in there, here are the results:
Hot Idle: 5.2psi
1000rpm 8.3psi
2000rpm 23.0psi
3000rpm 27.4psi
4000rpm 32.7psi
5000rpm 36.5psi (fluctuated)
Clogged Filter, Worn Bearings, or Pressure Relief Valve? Place your bets.
I know the feeling on the filter being stuck. I use my snap on filter socket strap to remove the snug bastards when their on too tight.
heres mine:
that and a long extension from the bottom gets'em off quick.
As for oil pressure, I'd start with the filter and go from there. My pressure is steady and to spec the whole way but I shimmed a new oem pump 5mm also and had fresh oil lines installed. As for oil/filters I could try and send you some stuff, I just have no clue on shipping rates though. Maybe a few wix filters and few gallons of oil would be nice to have around. But thats just a thought.
heres mine:
that and a long extension from the bottom gets'em off quick.
As for oil pressure, I'd start with the filter and go from there. My pressure is steady and to spec the whole way but I shimmed a new oem pump 5mm also and had fresh oil lines installed. As for oil/filters I could try and send you some stuff, I just have no clue on shipping rates though. Maybe a few wix filters and few gallons of oil would be nice to have around. But thats just a thought.
Kai;1463266 said:
Idle is fine. It's the 3000 + that's a bit low. A clogged filter will simply go into bypass...you will stop filtering oil, but you will have good pressure. You have my answer in a previous post
airhead04;1463343 said:
And this is not it
nosechunks;1463464 said:
+1 -or- the squirter bolts...but, I repeat myself.
This is why I bought brand new oil squirter bolts and cleaned out the nozzles really well.
I think I'm going to shim the Oil pump while the motor is still out of the car....
I think I'm going to shim the Oil pump while the motor is still out of the car....
Nghty89;1463600 said:
About 5mm should do it
If you're using the stock filter head, disassemble the cooler relief and clean the cylinder/piston well...replacing the spring is good insurance. Personally I would install a full flow T-stat controlled oil cooler circuit and eliminate the stock pressure "bleed" forever.
Well, just been confirmed - not only has the HG gone *poof*, but the bottom end has worn almost to spun bearing territory! Hurrah!
....NOT.
Anyway, looks like if i drop the subframe, i can drop the sump, and replace the rod bearings without removing the engine from the car, and without having to have the crank taken away to be ground...which would cost €600 here (and i couldn't afford that, even if it was a 'reasonable' price...which it isn't!).
So, BHG....rod bearings - this is almost turning into a full rebuild!
....NOT.
Anyway, looks like if i drop the subframe, i can drop the sump, and replace the rod bearings without removing the engine from the car, and without having to have the crank taken away to be ground...which would cost €600 here (and i couldn't afford that, even if it was a 'reasonable' price...which it isn't!).
So, BHG....rod bearings - this is almost turning into a full rebuild!
Search the boards over there, shouldnt be to hard to find a decent used one that some one else rebuilt. Still risky though!
jdub;1463627 said:About 5mm should do it
If you're using the stock filter head, disassemble the cooler relief and clean the cylinder/piston well...replacing the spring is good insurance. Personally I would install a full flow T-stat controlled oil cooler circuit and eliminate the stock pressure "bleed" forever.
Lol I changed my mind and decided that since the oil pump I have was checked for clearance by the previous owner and is in great condition, I am going to just leave it. Why mess with it if it works? Especially since I will go with the full flow system in a month or two anyways.
Kai, sorry to hear about it man. At least nothing else has majorly gone wrong. You could need a whole new motor AND trans... (Which I have two of by the way :naughty: ) lol Good luck! I just recently dropped $875 on machining for the entire motor just to make SURE she is damn perfect. I refuse to have this build go wrong.
Not cheap, getting a 2nd hand one, and more effort than just changing out the bearings (i don't have an engine crane here). I dunno about the transmission - the A340E i have could probably REALLY do with a fluid & filter change...and new solenoids.
Nghty89;1468564 said:
That's interesting you decided that. Especially since just about every guy on SM that's knows what they are doing when rebuilding a 7M has shimmed the oil pump relief valve ~5mm. That's on a brand new OEM oil pump too. And, has installed a full flow oil cooler circuit.
Guess you know something we don't