Oil pressure paranoia...
- Thread starter Kai
- Start date
jdub;1468587 said:That's interesting you decided that. Especially since just about every guy on SM that's knows what they are doing when rebuilding a 7M has shimmed the oil pump relief valve ~5mm. That's on a brand new OEM oil pump too. And, has installed a full flow oil cooler circuit.
Guess you know something we don't
C'mon now... don't bust my chops too hard.. :biglaugh:
I plan on grabbing them while I'm at the store just to avoid trouble. Putting a motor together in 29 degree weather at night sucks... BUT it saves me hours of work tomorrow. :naughty:
Pretty much, yep. I cant afford the machine work to have a new set of pistons put in, and the crank *should* be in good enough condition that i can get away with stock bearings. What i'd like to do, is get Toyota bearings, but that means taking the subframe off and the sump BEFORE ordering the bearings (takes 2 weeks). So a set of ACL Duraglide 780's in STD should do. It's meant only as a stopgap for roughly 6 months. Once my engine build is done, i can crane the one i have in my red one out, and into the Blue one, put the built engine in the red one, and still have a spare to strip down and rebuild.
Sounds like a plan. Wish I had something to drive while I do mine lol I finished doing everything to the motor and she's ready to drop in. With a shimmed oil pump and the piece above the oil filter... lol BUT It decided to rain today. And I still have to take out the broken heater union bolt in the back of the head... Well, at least bearings don't cost a fortune. I bought ACL standards for $120 total for the entire bottom end. I like them so far.
Rod bearings are only $25, last time i checked. I can't imagine mains would cost more than $60.
I really need to get the Mk2 Golf running again, and the bumper on the Mk3 Golf fitted...
I really need to get the Mk2 Golf running again, and the bumper on the Mk3 Golf fitted...
I double-checked my receipts and you are correct. They cost me $70 + shipping for the entire ACL bottom end. I recommend Driftmotion :love:
if i understand the way the stock bottom end was put together, aftermarket std. sizes arent drop ins. Now if the crank had been fitted for them after a recent rebuild that would be a different story. Isnt that why there are 5 different sizes on stock cranks?
Hmm, this may be the case, but that would mean i have to get the subframe off, drop the sump, remove ALL the rod bearings and measure the clearances/plastigage before dropping Toyota ones back in. However, Toyota sells each bearing for about $15. Without tax.
is there a reason why we cant take the crank out to have it polished or something? or does the entire engine have to be craned out?
Yeah, if i had an engine crane, and the funds, i'd pull the whole lot. But, the subframe route means you can leave the engine block in the car attached to the transmission.
As poodles stated, you cant pull the crank without dropping the transmission at one end, the front and rear covers, the oil seals and its usually far more hassle while its IN the car than if its OUT of the car.
As poodles stated, you cant pull the crank without dropping the transmission at one end, the front and rear covers, the oil seals and its usually far more hassle while its IN the car than if its OUT of the car.
IT ARE FIXED!
Turns out that paranoia was the right word for it. Turned out to be....oil pressure sender. Hot idle pressure is 8.5 psi @ 700rpm (almost twice what the spec is).
Also - BHG? Nah - again, its the simple shit you don't check. Turned out to be the rad cap. It's FUBAR. I feel like an idiot :/
Turns out that paranoia was the right word for it. Turned out to be....oil pressure sender. Hot idle pressure is 8.5 psi @ 700rpm (almost twice what the spec is).
Also - BHG? Nah - again, its the simple shit you don't check. Turned out to be the rad cap. It's FUBAR. I feel like an idiot :/
