northwestsupra's 500hp build
- Thread starter northwestsupra
- Start date
i was at the last centrellia meet, wasn't in a supra because it wasn't working, just for that day lol. ended up going with my friend in his 240sx, but we parked off to the side. i actually still got pictures of that day, now question for you duane, how did you get your intake pipe to work with no nipples? and were did you route the big hose that comes off of the intake side valve cover near the cam gear? think its a recirculation thing or something. and maby you should come and visit me with your "torque machine"
northwestsupra;932827 said:
With no nipples?
Hose is still there. It's an A&N fitting.
My car is in paint shop right now.
Duane
well you just have it so clean and hidden, well then come down in your plan b car and help a brother out this interior power crap is confusing me, and kwnate has always been a little butt face :sarcasm:
this interior power crap is confusing me, and kwnate has always been a little butt face :sarcasm:
You want a line from the accordion hose to the TB w/ a "T" going to the catch can. The valve cover nipples should be routed to the other side on the catch can. The fitting on the catch can for the cam covers should extend inside almost to the bottom and the can filled with coarse aluminum or stainless wool (the little coil type). With it set up this way, vac pulls the vapor from the bottom of the can through the wool and gives it a chance to condense.
The PCV is a really simple system and is there to handle blowby...at boost where most occurs, hence the need for a line to the accordion hose. Most blowby is produced from the compression stroke...the real reason the PCV is there is to reduce fuel dilution of the oil, reduce HC emissions, and prevent over pressurization of the crank case. When I said your seals could blow, that is worse case...your oil dipstick sure could keep popping out though
Another way to crack this nut is to throw away the catch can, keep the stock set-up, and install an air/oil separator in the line to the accordion hose. Parker makes a good one...Adjuster uses this method. The whole idea is to keep oil out of the IC...an air/oil separator will do this nicely.
The PCV is a really simple system and is there to handle blowby...at boost where most occurs, hence the need for a line to the accordion hose. Most blowby is produced from the compression stroke...the real reason the PCV is there is to reduce fuel dilution of the oil, reduce HC emissions, and prevent over pressurization of the crank case. When I said your seals could blow, that is worse case...your oil dipstick sure could keep popping out though
Another way to crack this nut is to throw away the catch can, keep the stock set-up, and install an air/oil separator in the line to the accordion hose. Parker makes a good one...Adjuster uses this method. The whole idea is to keep oil out of the IC...an air/oil separator will do this nicely.
ok so if i read what you just said there right, basically the bottom nipple is were both valve cover nipples are going to attach
then the accordian hose and TB will goto the 2 top nipples
or is it going to be seperate like accordian hose to catch can top nipple 1
and TB to catch can top nipple 2
a picture to help understand anyone else trying to figure this out
[/IMG]
then the accordian hose and TB will goto the 2 top nipples
or is it going to be seperate like accordian hose to catch can top nipple 1
and TB to catch can top nipple 2
a picture to help understand anyone else trying to figure this out
The bottom nipple is a drain...it's blocked or connects to a stopcock valve.
The two nipples on top are what I'm talking about above...the one connected to the cam covers needs a line inside (below the wool), close to the bottom. Don't use the steel wool you usually see...the stuff I'm talking about looks like a bunch of 1/16" circles stuck together and has a lot of air space.
The two nipples on top are what I'm talking about above...the one connected to the cam covers needs a line inside (below the wool), close to the bottom. Don't use the steel wool you usually see...the stuff I'm talking about looks like a bunch of 1/16" circles stuck together and has a lot of air space.
ok so bottom nipple blocked
top nipple one = valve cover nipples = blow by source
top nipple 2 = accordian hose and TB = vacuum source
yea i know what type of steel wool your talking about, mmm they make like good brushes, the kind you would use to ball up and scrub shit off with
top nipple one = valve cover nipples = blow by source
top nipple 2 = accordian hose and TB = vacuum source
yea i know what type of steel wool your talking about, mmm they make like good brushes, the kind you would use to ball up and scrub shit off with
finally sweet lol, thank you for being so patient, well it'll be fixed today. now does the accordian one have to really be there? cant you just run it TB as the only vacuum source or would that be a big problem also.
and also i have seen people running just little mini filters on the cam covers. is that bad?
and also i have seen people running just little mini filters on the cam covers. is that bad?
Yes, the accordion hose one needs to be there to give crank case pressure a place to go when the intake manifold is under boost pressure. You're dealing with metered air here (post AFM) and you don't want a pirate air to rear it's ugly head and cause idle problems.
The mini-filters are bad...for a lot of different reasons on an EFI motor.
LOL...nice pic...that's the stuff alright!
The mini-filters are bad...for a lot of different reasons on an EFI motor.
LOL...nice pic...that's the stuff alright!
That looks much better
What size are the lines?
- From the cam covers to the can
- From the can to the TB/accordion hose
What size are the lines?
- From the cam covers to the can
- From the can to the TB/accordion hose
not really sure, i think they are 6 a/n steel braided lines, had to stretch them just a little to make them fit
I am doing something similar and look forward to seeing your mass air conversion. I have an old vpc that I was going to replace my lexus mass air with. I have been out of the loop for about 8 years. I am just putting my car back together now with parts from way back then.
About what rpm is your turbo suppose to spool at? I have an old t04/60-1 hybrid from back in the day and I think after I break in my car I might look at the new Garret dual bearings..
Keep the pics coming..
About what rpm is your turbo suppose to spool at? I have an old t04/60-1 hybrid from back in the day and I think after I break in my car I might look at the new Garret dual bearings..
Keep the pics coming..
well my best guess is it will begin spooling at about 1kRPM, hit 10lbs at about 2k 25lbs @ 3k, its really all about how much motor power there is and how fast i get that exhaust out. tuning lots of it. i mean its a big turbo, and its got some pretty good sized wheels, so im expecting a bit of lag. but i dont mind, i like last second boost, dyno sheets are funny looking :naughty:
but if it spools quick that would be pretty balling
but if it spools quick that would be pretty balling