Need help with 1.5jz build

suprahero

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On the new timing map that Aaron did the timing is now up to 17.2 @ 17.98 psi of boost and it goes up to 18.6 @ 8000rpm.
 

suprahero

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I have my boost controller set to 15 most of the way, but I did turn it up to 17psi for a while. It never went over seventeen though. I'm sure the compression ratio was higher though. All I hear is about the guys in Florida running 22psi on 93 octane on 1jz and I'm the one that blows up............:biglaugh:

I had the boost lowered to 15psi because it felt sooooo strong that I didn't need 17psi. I've never had the 1.5 over seventeen psi of boost, even when I was at the dyno, I didn't take it higher.
 
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wesbeech

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Feb 26, 2006
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suprahero;976592 said:
I has my boost controller set to 15 most of the way, but I did turn it up to 17psi for a while. It never went over seventeen though. I'm sure the compression ratio was higher though. All I hear is about the guys in Florida running 22psi on 93 octane on 1jz and I'm the one that blows up............:biglaugh:

I had the boost lowered to 15psi because it felt sooooo strong that I didn't need 17psi. I've never had the 1.5 over seventeen psi of boost, even when I was at the dyno, I didn't take it higher.



Yea thats how it works you run less and your car pops. :3d_frown: That will get you every time. Thats why im gonna run as much as possible with my set up. :evil2: At least that way it will have a damn good reason when it pops.
 

IJ.

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Lots of overlap = low cylinder pressures so you can get away with the timing/boost you were running

Less overlap ie: Your cam settings = High peak cylinder pressures and you either need to back the timing down or the boost or mechanical damge will happen.

Why did you open the cams up so wide?
(just curious)
 

suprahero

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IJ, I adjusted the cams on the dyno with the 1jz and this is where re made the most power. I thought that's what you adjusted them for. I didn't adjust them with the 2jz block. I kept them at the same settings.

I'm starting to think I need to rebuild the 2jz head that I have and keep the stock cams in it and just make whatever power it lets me make. Does this sound like a better plan than putting the 1jz head back on? I'd have to buy a 2jz manifold and some new injectors, but I could sell my Drewgo manifold and my SARD injectors to help pay for it. I"m really at a loss right now as to what the correct step would be.
 

IJ.

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J: If you head and parts check out ok no reason not to use them.

You just need to 0 the Cams and sneak up on a safe setting on the Dyno, what worked for the 1J isn't going to be the same for the 2J.

I'd be interested to see the insides of the 1J.
(ring lands in specific)
 

csnow

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I would go full 2J. You can get Crower 2J cams for mid $600 new or used HKS for around the same price. I sold my HKS cams for $650 because I decided to run the stockers. I should be putting down 480 easy to the wheel on a safe tune which is plenty for the street.
 

suprahero

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I want to go ahead with the 2jz, but I have all of the stuff for the 1j head. I'd have to buy a 2jz manifold which isn't but $200.00 and I"d have to buy some new injectors. I dont think the 1jz fuel rail will work on the 2jz, but maybe someone will know for sure. I know the 2jz injectors are top feed and my 1jz are side feed. I'd also like to have the 2jz head rebuilt with oversized valves and new retainers and springs. All that's going to add up pretty quick so I'm going to take my time and do what I can. I've also got to send my steering rack off to Aaron and get a new one while the engine is out.
I've also got to remove a few things from the engine bay and respray it while the engine is out also. I want to make it look better than it did last time.

Please don't let it break this time once all of this is done. If it does, I'll be parting it out for sure................or putting the 1j back in.
IJ, I can't tell you what the 1j looks like because I'm not touching it. It's never been opened up and it's going to stay that way. Thanks for your help guys.
 

OneJSupra

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Feb 9, 2007
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suprahero;977183 said:
I want to go ahead with the 2jz, but I have all of the stuff for the 1j head. I'd have to buy a 2jz manifold which isn't but $200.00 and I"d have to buy some new injectors. I dont think the 1jz fuel rail will work on the 2jz, but maybe someone will know for sure. I know the 2jz injectors are top feed and my 1jz are side feed. I'd also like to have the 2jz head rebuilt with oversized valves and new retainers and springs. All that's going to add up pretty quick so I'm going to take my time and do what I can. I've also got to send my steering rack off to Aaron and get a new one while the engine is out.
I've also got to remove a few things from the engine bay and respray it while the engine is out also. I want to make it look better than it did last time.

Please don't let it break this time once all of this is done. If it does, I'll be parting it out for sure................or putting the 1j back in.
IJ, I can't tell you what the 1j looks like because I'm not touching it. It's never been opened up and it's going to stay that way. Thanks for your help guys.

A full 2j can get very expensive. Why not just put the 1J block back in. You made 500+ hp with it and at least you can still drive your car. Save the $$ later then go 2J. Just a thought !!!

cheers...
 

tissimo

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2jz injectors are sidefeed as well, you can keep your injectors


honestly imo i wouldn't waste my money with the 2jz head stuff... Unless you're looking for big power (700+). The 1jz head will work fine.
 

suprahero

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I"ve got a degree wheel, and I tried degreeing the 1jz one time with it, and it wouldn't crank.

If I build the 1jz head, where can I get new springs and retainers? I'm going to get new pistons and rods, and new bearings all over again. I used the stock rods last time, but I'm going to go with something like this this time.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CP-P...043189666QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item350043189666

I also would like to know how hard it would be to make these 2jz valves work with the 1jz head if at all possible.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XVT-...ryZ33621QQihZ021QQitemZ310035896965QQtcZphoto
 

tissimo

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Crower 2jz Springs and retainers work for the 1jz, and are cheap (350-400).

The 2jz intake valve is like 1.5MM bigger but the exhaust valve is 1MM smaller.
 

drewgo

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Dec 1, 2006
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suprahero;976592 said:
All I hear is about the guys in Florida running 22psi on 93 octane on 1jz and I'm the one that blows up............:biglaugh:

Actually 25psi....for the record

suprahero;978097 said:
I"ve got a degree wheel, and I tried degreeing the 1jz one time with it, and it wouldn't crank.

If I build the 1jz head, where can I get new springs and retainers? I'm going to get new pistons and rods, and new bearings all over again. I used the stock rods last time, but I'm going to go with something like this this time.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CP-P...043189666QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item350043189666

I also would like to know how hard it would be to make these 2jz valves work with the 1jz head if at all possible.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XVT-...ryZ33621QQihZ021QQitemZ310035896965QQtcZphoto

Jay, If we sum up everything you are doing to your engine, you're pretty much turning your 1jz engine into a 2jz engine. As a recommendation, cut your loses and go 2j and be done with it.
 

tlo86

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drewgo;978397 said:
Actually 25psi....for the record



Jay, If we sum up everything you are doing to your engine, you're pretty much turning your 1jz engine into a 2jz engine. As a recommendation, cut your loses and go 2j and be done with it.

/agree :):)
 

suprahero

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I"m going to leave the 1jz head like it is, but I'm going to try and find a 2jz block and put it in like it is. I'd rather trust Toyota's engineering and not have to buy new pistons and rods. If I can find a good ge or gte block for a fraction of the cost of the new pistons and rods then it will work for me. If you see anybody selling one, let me know.
 

suprahero

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I bought a 2jzge block this morning so I should be able to start putting it back together after I figure out what head gasket I need. I also have my steering rack out so I can send it to Aaron for a new one. I'm also going to try and repaint my engine bay and make it all purdy.