I was wondering if anyone is currently using a replacement one piece aluminum driveshaft in their MK3. I am interested in how you feel it performs in comparsion to your original steel two piece shaft?
Robert
Robert
IJ. said:Personally I'd get Jeff to make you a true 2 piece (lose the bonded rear section and keep the centre bearing and uni joint) but I'm biased against 1 piece shafts
IJ. said:There is a thing with driveshafts called "Critical Speed" and the longer a shaft is the lower it is, Uni Joints travel in a figure 8 NOT in true circles.
At certain shaft speeds you can get a harshness/vibration/harmonic effect that while annoying in the short term doesn't do any damage BUT for extended periods it can.
Short gears Low profile rubber and extended high speed running can place your car in this zone.
True 2 piece just means Jeff replaces the rear section of the tube that's an inner and outer bonded together with a single tube so it's lighter and keeps the Uni joints in phase whereas the bonded part can and does fail letting the Uni's become out of phase and vibrate.
IJ. said:As I said before it's a personal preference thing as lots of people rave about their 1 piece shafts, I don't think it makes such a large performance increase as people believe.
My "guess" (this will be unpopular) Is that it's a bit of placebo effect at work, if it were something large diameter like a flywheel yes you get a much lower PMoI but on a 3" shaft I just can't see it!
Having said all that I had a custom true 2 piece made up using Strange Engineering parts and large 1350 uni joints so I know If I ever get traction I won't break it!
jdub said:What would be an excellent option is a stock configuration 2 piece shaft without the rubber dampening material (it twists out on the stocker) and upgraded U-joints. A lighter weight, fully balanced steel and aluminum option using the stock center bearing or an upgraded aftermarket bearing would be outstanding. No one makes these to my knowledge.
Sawbladz said:A very brief search did not yield any answers about the proper lengths. I will look later when I don't have a midterm in a few hrs. lol
Maybe someone on here would be kind enough to find these numbers, or even measure their own.
shaftmasters said:Hi figgie,
I am new to the Supra and the kind of power they deliver. Do they compare to the nissan 240SX with the RB 25 DET engine swap. Our customers who have installed aluminum one-piece shafts in these claim that turbo charged they are putting out over 500 hp.
Robert
shaftmasters said:Hi jdub,
I was wondering why you feel staying with the two-piece shaft is an advantage? We make one-piece aluminum shafts for both the Nissan 240SX and 2005-2007 Mustang GT's that come original with a two-piece shaft. Everyone that has made the switch rave about how reducing the rotational weight of the shaft has allowed the engine to rev up faster and reduced vibrations. Also the end cost to the customer is cheaper than if we did offer a two-piece steel replacement shaft with upgraded u-joints. We know that we are not the first with these driveshafts. What we have to offer is much better pricing and customer service. We strive to acheive 100% customer satisfaction. If you were to visit nicoclub.com you can find our advertising and customer feedback.
Robert
shaftmasters said:Hi figgie,
I am new to the Supra and the kind of power they deliver. Do they compare to the nissan 240SX with the RB 25 DET engine swap. Our customers who have installed aluminum one-piece shafts in these claim that turbo charged they are putting out over 500 hp.
Robert