Need answers to aluminum driveshaft questions
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how about a one piece 3.5 inch aluminum driveshaft like Doward said, with larger U-joints, lighter, safe for high speed, cost effective and stronger then stock.
Sawbladz said:
We have not priced steel yet but aluminum single piece shafts are $349.99 with Free UPS Ground to the continental US. Steel should be about $280-$300but like I say we haven't figured steel yet.
Thanks, David
David, welcome... I've been speaking to David for a bit now and he seems genuinely interested in helping this community with something it needs: driveshafts... I've read some of Shaftmasters' feedback on other forums, and from what I can see, they turn out a solid product... I would love to see something developed with a two piece, that would be awesome... Keep the ideas comin guys...
Dave, do you have any local Supras that you can get with and look over the stock ds to see what your feelings would be on designing a 2 piece?
Dave, do you have any local Supras that you can get with and look over the stock ds to see what your feelings would be on designing a 2 piece?
I fail to see how by using a two-piece shaft that you eliminate the possibility of your vehicle pole vaulting. If the center u-joint breaks leaving the back of the rear shaft still connected to the differential and the rest of the rear shaft dragging on the ground how is it not going to pole vualt if it catches a rut in the road. This is what driveshaft safety loops are designed to prevent.jdub said:AF1JZ nailed it in post #7 with IJ's comments. The downside to the stock 2 piece is the rubber material in the aft shaft. In a Supra, the 2 piece (assuming it's well balanced) produces lower vibration due to the harmonics involved. Plus, (like figgie alluded to) if you bust a one piece, you've just entered your Supra in a pole vault event
shaftmasters said:
correct and specifically if you are racing under NHRA, the drive shaft loop is MANDATORY anyway
You wont need it...Sawbladz said:
Pole vaulting a car? Myth Busters proved it cant be done, lol... That episode was hilarious... It royally effed up that car, but it didnt pole vault it...
Reign_Maker said:You wont need it...
Pole vaulting a car? Myth Busters proved it cant be done, lol... That episode was hilarious... It royally effed up that car, but it didnt pole vault it...
sure you will!
NHRA mandate Now if you don't race, then no issues.
Reign_Maker said:
heheh
be like in the Transformers movie... Poopra splits in half and the front half rams aginst wall and the other half flips!
shaftmasters said:
Well, I figure a high jump is better than a pole vault...since a 1 piece is twice the un-jointed length of the stocker. Not that it's really going to matter if the driveshaft drops and catches the ground anyway...it was just a way to point out it's very, very bad. If you're not using a safety loop, it's your problem.
What I was *most* concerned with is driveshaft critical speed per what was in post #7 (IJ's comments). If you don't want to make a 2 piece shaft, that's fine. You asked, so I put in my 2 cents
Hi jdub,jdub said:Well, I figure a high jump is better than a pole vault...since a 1 piece is twice the un-jointed length of the stocker. Not that it's really going to matter if the driveshaft drops and catches the ground anyway...it was just a way to point out it's very, very bad. If you're not using a safety loop, it's your problem.
What I was *most* concerned with is driveshaft critical speed per what was in post #7 (IJ's comments). If you don't want to make a 2 piece shaft, that's fine. You asked, so I put in my 2 cents
We have no problem working on a two-piece design for you guys. Give us alittle time and we'll see what we can develope for you. Off hand, I was wondering if you would consider just replacing the rear shaft with a new aluminum shaft with solid 1310 series performance u-joints complete with new flanges that would bolt right up to your existing front shaft.By going with a lightweight aluminum shaft it could run well with the original front shaft without requiring to balance the two as a set. What are your thoughts on this. I also wanted to add that I am sorry if I came off short with you but I take my business seriously and started to feel like some members thought that we were trying to force a unsafe product on you, which is not the case. Shaftmasters would never suggest or sell a shaft that would create anymore liability than the factory original. Our one-piece shaft falls well within Dana Corp. Guidelines for a single-piece shaft the length of the Supra's.
Robert
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This thread always makes me nervous of using a one-piece DS....
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=719571&postcount=63
Its not exactly a MK3, but close enough!
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=719571&postcount=63
Its not exactly a MK3, but close enough!
Attachments
Thanks it is good to know that they also make them in 1350 series along with the 1310 series that we already have in stock. The transmission yoke for us is not the hard part. It is the hanger bearing stub. As of now we don't know of a source other than a Toyota dealer to order a stub which is only available as part of a complete shaft. We would have to order a complete shaft in order to just retreive the stub off of it.IJ. said:
Robert
