My rebuild :D

[Enraged]

for your oil drain on the turbo, does it come out of the turbo, then do a 90 degree turn, then 180 degrees?

 

[Blackdawg]

A few question,

Is your compressor housing on loosely, it look like that in the pictures? It is okay for now but remember to tighten it before starting the engine.

Is that a new waterpump? If not, why are you not using on? Get one from DriftMotion. I believe it is only 55 dollars.

You should paint the timing cover in aluminum. Clean and sand it just like you did with the other parts, prime it and then paint it with aluminum engine paint. You will like it like that.

Lastly, how come you didn't polish any of the thermostat housing parts? If you want to paint them, you still can. I did paint the whole thermostat section on the 7M with it bolted on the engine when it was on the stand.

Just clean it with a cloth soaked in gas or break cleaner, let it dry. Get some masking tape with newspaper and plastic, tape everything around it including wires and sensors, basically everything that will not be painted and then start painting.

It will look a lot nicer, trust me. Make sure to get high temperature aluminum and primer. Duplicolor Engine paint works very well.

I did use Duplicolor high temp paint. Did kno you could paint aluminum on tho lol

And i just ran out of time to polish the other stuff. my dad want this car outa his shop you see.. lol

and yes the Comp housing is loosly on, it will stay that way till i know how the IC piping will line up ect.

and i really thought i shouldve gotten one, but my pump was workin just fine before, so didnt see a reason to get a new one...still really considering it tho..

Smurf blue omg! The build seems seems to be doing ok.

Lol its not that bright in real life lol the flash on the camera just makes it really pop out. thanks tho!

Engine is looking SA-WHEAT man!

Thanks man!!

for your oil drain on the turbo, does it come out of the turbo, then do a 90 degree turn, then 180 degrees?

yes it does. thats the stuff that came with my DM kit. I thought about buying a 45 AN fitting to just come right off the drain or even a strait one, but if i did that then the hose would hit the manifold. I did it exactly as pictured on the DM site
http://store.driftmotion.com/dynami...=06aad6258bc6cb6381f5b14ee7897766&iViewFlag=1

 

[Enraged]

it looks like it actually goes up a few degrees. i would suggest fixing it, you want a nice easy downhill path for the oil to drain, or you can kill your seals pretty quick. if the parts that came with the kit don't work, it means the kit is wrong. it looks like you have an ARZ oil drain adapter, you could always get it cut, extended, and re-welded to that you AN fitting clears the turbo.

 

[IJ.]

it looks like it actually goes up a few degrees. i would suggest fixing it, you want a nice easy downhill path for the oil to drain, or you can kill your seals pretty quick. if the parts that came with the kit don't work, it means the kit is wrong. it looks like you have an ARZ oil drain adapter, you could always get it cut, extended, and re-welded to that you AN fitting clears the turbo.

Won't "kill" the seals it'll just smoke like a bitch till it's corrected..

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Do this to make your life easier.

Take off the flange from the turbo.

Take the flange off the block used for the return line.

Measure a length you need to run from the turbo to the block.

Go to a store that makes hydraulic hoses.

Tell them you need a hose in that length with fittings on each end for the flange. One side is turbo and the next is the block.

Tell them you need a hose for engine oil and high temperatures as well. You said your Dad has a shop, so you can ask if where he send power steering hoses to be repaired, they would be able to make the hose.

This is a lot easier and will be good. What ever the length is, add an inch or two to compensate for the bend, do not go overboard because you don't want to have some crazy rollercoaster going on.

I did this because I didn't like the fittings in the 7M kit but I did use the flanges that came with it.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

If you are worrying about heat against the hose, just buy the protective sleeves that "Thermo- makes and put it over the hose. Simple.

 

[Enraged]

Won't "kill" the seals it'll just smoke like a bitch till it's corrected..

i stand corrected. but its definetly easier to change it now with the motor on a stand, than in the car

 

[IJ.]

i stand corrected. but its definetly easier to change it now with the motor on a stand, than in the car

<nodding> Needs to be downhill to the Pan all the way..

 

[Blackdawg]

Okay guys. You got me to try it again. I am going to buy a strain AN fitting and more hose and see if i can make her work better

will also be getting a new water pump i think.

i am lookin for a new radiator too or a used one with some electric fans for a good price as well.

also here is a bit of a question.

i have the Apexi power intake and want to use it on my car but my intake pipe is 4''

which adapter should i get??
http://www.apexi-usa.com/products/?id=6037

 

[xzeror]

updates?

 

[twan]

looking good man! keep up the good work, not to many of us 19-ers do this kind of stuff anymore. most of our peers are into all kinds of other crap setting a bad example for all us.
well good to hear you fixed that timing plate milling problem. im going to have to keep that in mind when i do my build.
and what are you going to do with the clutch? stock pressure plate is good for up to 320hp i believe.

 

[Blackdawg]

I got a 6 puck clutch and an upgraded PP. i hope to be around 400whp so yes, need a new one but thanks man! it is true, wrenchin in the backyard is a dying pass time

Sorry guys, i havent done alot to the car in a while school has been keeping me busy and i havent had a free weekend for 3 weeks. but that will change next week.

I did buy a new Mishimoto radiator tho! Will also be buying some other things here as well, few small tid bits.

Next on the list is finish putting stuff on the block itself and also finish my fuel pump setup.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Your engine looks similar to my old 7M I sold last Summer, Summer of 2010. Same turbo as well and I bought a new harness from Toyota to eliminate wiring problems.

 

[Blackdawg]

you used the DM 67mm??? what AR where you running? how did it pull? and how much was the harness?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

.70 A/R with ten pounds at 3200 RPM. Stock cams but a ported head.

582 for the harness. My car was an 89+ which is a specific harness. There were only three left in the states when I ordered it about 2 years ago.

 

[Blackdawg]

ah well mines an 87. i think my harness is in ok shap anyways.

but wow, full boost at 3200rpm? or is that when you started to get boost? im running a tiny AR, .58, i want boost fast but wanted the bigger comp wheel.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

It was a nice setup I was running. It made boost quickly. Engine was bored as well and the head had serious work done to it but was on stock cams.

 

[Blackdawg]

ah id didnt do any major head work. will pretty much be stock head and cams.

well thats cool! makes me excited to try my setup! haha

 

[Blackdawg]

Finally got to wrench on the car today. i put the alternator and TB on. the was lookin at getting the heater core pipe on...which i think ill have to take off the exhaust manifold for lol but i found two oil seals...:: no :: soooo turns out i forgot to put them on the front of the cam shafts lol so torn that apart and fixed that issue! whew

also i have a question about the ISC. where can i get the crush washer that goes in between the CV and the ISC unit?

sorry i forgot my camera today too

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Crush washer? There are no crush washers on the ISCV. It seals with a gasket and there is a one way check valve in the manifold. Are you talking about the crush washers on the fuel rail for the cold start injector line?