My '90 3E5 Turbo Targa :)
- Thread starter supra90turbo
- Start date
scotty: Thanks :bigthumb:
shaeff: Way ahead of you. It's got the factory insulators down low, that upper bracket is just resting on it holding it in place. I'm working on an elegant solution for the upper hold downs, but I'm running short on ideas with this stupid upper tank. haha
::edit::
Oh, and in IJ fashion:
Today!
Scored an FC RX7 oil cooler for $50. Now just to buy some hose and fittings and we're in business!
shaeff: Way ahead of you. It's got the factory insulators down low, that upper bracket is just resting on it holding it in place. I'm working on an elegant solution for the upper hold downs, but I'm running short on ideas with this stupid upper tank. haha
::edit::
Oh, and in IJ fashion:
Today!
Scored an FC RX7 oil cooler for $50. Now just to buy some hose and fittings and we're in business!
Lookin good! Not sure what type of hose you're planning on using, but keep an eye on the push lock stuff if you use it. Still not exactly sure what happened but I had a hose blow off last week and fortunately shut it down before I lost my motor. Summit is sending a new fitting today that I will be measuring, suspect the one that blew off might have been undersized or something since all the others have held up fine so far...
Thanks for the heads up, dok.
Planning on using Summit's Black -AN fittings with Earl's Nylon Braided Hose. I was pleased with the quality of their fittings.
Planning on using Summit's Black -AN fittings with Earl's Nylon Braided Hose. I was pleased with the quality of their fittings.
Yesterday:
Installed a smaller, yet equally efficient battery as the big ol' forklift battery that was in there.
Just a simple group 35 battery that had the right terminal orientation on it. It's even the same height as the factory battery, someone snapped off the bolt that holds the hold-down to the radiator support, so I'll have to drill and tap that someday soon...
With my extra space, I relocated the coolant reservoir next to the battery, between that and the radiator. Need to make a bracket for that.
Looked at the RX7 oil cooler some more, still pondering how I'm ever going to fit that.
Added a ground to the Ignitor. Quite a simple and rewarding task.
Today!:
Got my IC pipes back from the welder, gave 'em a coat of satin black and also painted my HKS 3000 pipe to match.
Removed the DDP from the car and took off the horrible reroute that one of the previous owners did. No pics of that unfortunately as I was all go go go today, but the welds were some of the worst I've ever seen!
Not saying my welds are art by any means, but they are pretty good considering my lack of experience, and a sub-par 110v MIG welder
Got my IC pipes back from the welder, gave 'em a coat of satin black and also painted my HKS 3000 pipe to match.
Removed the DDP from the car and took off the horrible reroute that one of the previous owners did. No pics of that unfortunately as I was all go go go today, but the welds were some of the worst I've ever seen!
Not saying my welds are art by any means, but they are pretty good considering my lack of experience, and a sub-par 110v MIG welder
Done, and on the road! Feels really good to be driving a Supra again. It's almost surreal after 5+ years...
Couple pics from this weekend, taken by a friend:
Pics are huge, btw...
Couple pics from this weekend, taken by a friend:
Pics are huge, btw...
Today!
Adding a bit of much needed bumpage to this thread.
My last update was July, and all has gone well with the car thus far. Retorqued the head studs, and have nothing major to report wrong with the car ::knocks on wood::
Spring is coming, and the car will be coming out of hibernation soon, so I must get to all the little things that need to be tended to. Nothing major, just little things that made the car a little less pleasurable to drive.
Ever since I got the car, it burned oil on decel. I could avoid it, but that meant no engine braking on the highway, which was annoying. I found that it was likely valve stem seals, so I got some nice Cometic Viton seals from Rich at SIP.
The clutch started slipping in 5th gear and occasionally 4th when on the highway on boost, that is, when I could stay off of fuel cut...
Bought a clutch off a member here in the FS section
Next was dealing with my fuel cut issue. I ordered a boost controller and an HKS FCD. Done.
Just kidding...
I purchased a MaftPro off of a member here, as well as some 550cc injectors off of another member.
There are other little things, but basically I have gathered a few parts so far and need to get crackin'. I started the tear-down tonight and everything went well, albeit slow going, I don't remember there being this much *stuff* in the way of getting the engine out...
Naturally, removing the engine/trans, I get to find a bunch of other things that I need.
My mental list, in no particular order:
I know there's more, but the list is painful enough as it is...
on top of that, I need to do ball joints in my DD Subaru, both LH axles, and new exhaust engine to tailpipe. 192,000mi have taken their toll on the poor old exhaust and it's about paper thin and leaking at every seam.
I'm also trying to restore my BMX bike from when I used to ride, in hopes to ride again.
1994 S&M Holmes for anyone that cares
well, that was pretty long winded. thanks for reading, here's a picture to show where I'm at tonight.
Adding a bit of much needed bumpage to this thread.
My last update was July, and all has gone well with the car thus far. Retorqued the head studs, and have nothing major to report wrong with the car ::knocks on wood::
Spring is coming, and the car will be coming out of hibernation soon, so I must get to all the little things that need to be tended to. Nothing major, just little things that made the car a little less pleasurable to drive.
Ever since I got the car, it burned oil on decel. I could avoid it, but that meant no engine braking on the highway, which was annoying. I found that it was likely valve stem seals, so I got some nice Cometic Viton seals from Rich at SIP.
The clutch started slipping in 5th gear and occasionally 4th when on the highway on boost, that is, when I could stay off of fuel cut...
Bought a clutch off a member here in the FS section
Next was dealing with my fuel cut issue. I ordered a boost controller and an HKS FCD. Done.
Just kidding...
I purchased a MaftPro off of a member here, as well as some 550cc injectors off of another member.
There are other little things, but basically I have gathered a few parts so far and need to get crackin'. I started the tear-down tonight and everything went well, albeit slow going, I don't remember there being this much *stuff* in the way of getting the engine out...
Naturally, removing the engine/trans, I get to find a bunch of other things that I need.
My mental list, in no particular order:
- Brakes - the ones on the car squeal terribly and dust like crazy
- Fan clutch - found mine had leaked all it's contents out on the garage floor. Looking at Adrenaline Motorsports dual fan setup though...
- Radiator - Mine was a used band-aid replacement when my Mishimoto failed due to some damage that appears to have been overlooked upon installation, oh well, it came with the car.
- Heater hoses - I planned on this already, they looked new, but most certainly were not, and some were poor-fitting replacements or universal hoses that "worked".
- Exhaust studs. Perhaps helicoil when its out, the studs that are in there are too short and the oval ended "lock" of the nut doesn't even touch the stud, I found one had backed completely out and was sitting on the manifold, behind the heat shield.
- Fix broken sway bar tab on driver's rear arm. Typical, with ST bars and A1 heim-jointed links. Still, made a hell of a bang when it went...
- Valve stem seals - pretty important, the main reason I'm working on the car, really.
- Fuel system upgrade. 550's, MKIV-TT pump, AFPR, j-tube bypass, FPD delete, Earls nylon braided throughout. Maybe later than sooner
- MaftPro - Wire it up and sort it out, make it run on speed density and go from there.
- Clean engine bay. Possibly paint. It's pretty rough under there. Glad I have a full bottle of simple green...
- Fix IC pipes. They were a temporary-ish job, at least the hot side was, with a lot of factory pieces at the beginning of it so it would all fit.
- Exhaust - either make one or find one for cheapish. I like the 4", but it's too much for what I need. Everyone tells me to keep it, but I can't keep dragging it all over the damn state, it'll be gone if I keep hitting it on everything.
- Gauges - hook up my Greddy AFR and EGT gauges, and hopefully find an oil pressure and water temp gauge (black 60mm please!)
- Finalize my coolant filter setup
- NA Filter stud, oil filter relocation with t-stat bypass to cooler perhaps? Doubtful, but that would be nice.
I know there's more, but the list is painful enough as it is...
on top of that, I need to do ball joints in my DD Subaru, both LH axles, and new exhaust engine to tailpipe. 192,000mi have taken their toll on the poor old exhaust and it's about paper thin and leaking at every seam.
I'm also trying to restore my BMX bike from when I used to ride, in hopes to ride again.
1994 S&M Holmes for anyone that cares
well, that was pretty long winded. thanks for reading, here's a picture to show where I'm at tonight.
Engine is out. No surprises today, which is good.
I decided I'm going to put my Tomei Cam gears on this engine since I've had them for about 6 years and haven't used them yet, as well as my Comp Cams BBC inner springs on in preparation for future upgrades.
progress pic:
I decided I'm going to put my Tomei Cam gears on this engine since I've had them for about 6 years and haven't used them yet, as well as my Comp Cams BBC inner springs on in preparation for future upgrades.
progress pic:
Call me an idiot, but is a t-stat bypass for those who decide to remove the t-stat? And is this a t-stat bypass?
Shaeff; If the pics look really familiar it's because I followed your build thread and remember seeing this set-up lol, hope you don't mind me posting these pics.
OP; Just read the entire thread, glad you didn't sell this thing. The car looks badass, I really like the stance. If you hadn't mentioned it, you'd get away with saying you have coilovers lol. Do you have any rubbing issues at all while steering or under compression with such width in the fronts? Any rubs in the rears beside the 4" exhaust? Lol
Oh and one more thing, I do not by any means know much about flared fenders, but one of the rears just looks odd (I think it may be the pass side), maybe incorrect is more of an appropriate word. The lining looks "off", maybe it's just me. :dunno:
Shaeff; If the pics look really familiar it's because I followed your build thread and remember seeing this set-up lol, hope you don't mind me posting these pics.
OP; Just read the entire thread, glad you didn't sell this thing. The car looks badass, I really like the stance. If you hadn't mentioned it, you'd get away with saying you have coilovers lol. Do you have any rubbing issues at all while steering or under compression with such width in the fronts? Any rubs in the rears beside the 4" exhaust? Lol
Oh and one more thing, I do not by any means know much about flared fenders, but one of the rears just looks odd (I think it may be the pass side), maybe incorrect is more of an appropriate word. The lining looks "off", maybe it's just me. :dunno:
Supra28: the stock oil cooler system is pressure based, and not thermostatically controlled, which would be the optimal method of cooling, since oil is thicker when it's cold...
Thanks for reading! I'm glad I didn't get rid of it also. I love the stance as well! I have no major rubbing issues, the 4" exhaust drags a bit under the subframe where it's at the lowest, but with the 18's it clears more than I expected, it is quite well made, however, and fits awesome.
The rear tires rub the moldings very slightly, I have some clearancing to do before next season, but I've got the sheetmetal pulled out enough. Stock bodied was hopeless in clearing these tires, so it took quite a bit of work, but it was worthit
I don't see the flare issue you speak of, nor do I understand what you mean by lining...
Thanks for reading! I'm glad I didn't get rid of it also. I love the stance as well! I have no major rubbing issues, the 4" exhaust drags a bit under the subframe where it's at the lowest, but with the 18's it clears more than I expected, it is quite well made, however, and fits awesome.
The rear tires rub the moldings very slightly, I have some clearancing to do before next season, but I've got the sheetmetal pulled out enough. Stock bodied was hopeless in clearing these tires, so it took quite a bit of work, but it was worthit
I don't see the flare issue you speak of, nor do I understand what you mean by lining...
supra90turbo;1677045 said:
Thanks for the info on the oiling system, looks like I have a lot more research to do.
As for wheel clearance, are you able to fully steer and not have the fronts rub? I ask because my brother had 18's on his Supra and they rubbed when trying to do a full turn on either direction. Specs were 235/40/18.
Disregard my post about the flare lol...
Axle: thanks! :bigthumb:
Supra: very welcome! I can go full lock, haven't found a situation where the fronts rubbed at all. I've been quite pleased thus far!
Supra: very welcome! I can go full lock, haven't found a situation where the fronts rubbed at all. I've been quite pleased thus far!
Supra28- Kurt nailed it. We want temperature based cooling, not pressure based. Having it thermostatically controlled makes the oil stick right around optimum temps. My particular thermostat is 180*, running through an 11x8 B&M oil cooler. The lines are small though, so nearly the entire lengths of SS braided hose and fittings will be replaced with larger stuff.
jdub has put together a great DIY for a thermostatically controlled, full flow oiling system here. Give it a read, as it should answer most if not all of your questions:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...ostat-Controlled-Oil-Cooler-amp-Remote-Filter
Having it thermostatically controlled makes the oil stick right around optimum temps. My particular thermostat is 180*, running through an 11x8 B&M oil cooler. The lines are small though, so nearly the entire lengths of SS braided hose and fittings will be replaced with larger stuff.jdub has put together a great DIY for a thermostatically controlled, full flow oiling system here. Give it a read, as it should answer most if not all of your questions:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...ostat-Controlled-Oil-Cooler-amp-Remote-Filter