my 89 7mgte build up thread!

[Shytheed Dumas]

Wow, I just read through this whole thread (w/o pics cause I'm at work :3d_frown: ), and I was on the edge of my seat coming up on the start up. Congrats and keep at it. :bigthumb:

I'm about to start on my first engine build in Louisville myself, so I'm sure I'll be referring back to this thread once and a while and leaning on Dave for a little help once in a while, too.

 

[mk3forme]

Dont worry Vic you have helped me plenty! Worry that is:biglaugh:

Welcome Shy im glad you could join us!! You really need to go through and see the pics. I think pics make a thread

Update: I think John and IJ are correct. The ISC valve is THE, or at least part of the problem. I dont know why I didnt notice before but the valve is not clicking like its suppose to after shut off. I think I was hearing the ABS unit clicking over there instead. All the resistances check out fine on the valve. This vavle has always been at the back of my mind as a problem. When I was cleaning all the parts up, I noticed corrosion in the seam between the black electronic section and the aluminum base. So I broke them apart to clean in there. When I went to reassemble, I went looking for a replacement seal that fits in between the two parts. Toyota doesnt even show this seal on their parts list. So I used a bead of water housing silicone instead. This could be the problem. The silicone might not be providing a sufficient seal. Maybe I should have used black rtv instead of the water stuff, but I wasnt sure if air or water would need to be sealed out. I didnt have time to pull it off and check with 12 volts like the manual sais, and the motor was hot as well. I will check tomorrow.

I also have another power steering leak. Coming out of that big honkin 24mm allen head screw closer to the driver side on the steering rack. Any one have any ideas on what I can use to tighten that since I cant find a 24mm allen wrench readily available??

 

[jdub]

Go through that link on Mk III Tech step-by-step...you're eliminating pirate air as the problem. This also assumes you have a good IDL signal from the TPS.

Looks like you're going to spring for a 24mm allen wrench

 

[mk3forme]

When you say good IDL signal from the TPS. Im assuming you are referring to all the resistances in the TSRM associated with the IDL pin are good correct? Or is there another way I should be checking the signal? Everything checked out according to the TSRM.

I did follow the article you sent me the link to. There were no changes when capping off all those ports. But then again my problem, at least right now, is not just fast idle, but the constant increase and decrease. Its like im feathering the throttle getting to race someone but im not touching the gas. And it doesnt go above 1500 or so rpm's.

As far as that 24mm wrench. I got lucky tonight! No not like you all are thinking:naughty: . I got one of the guys at work to let me borrow a 24mm wrench. So as long as it fits, im in business with that. I hope I have time to check the valve tommorow.

 

[jdub]

My TCCS book is at home...I'll get the numbers to you in a couple of days.
Meanwhile, unplug it, start the car and see what happens.

 

[mk3forme]

ok update time. Like I said before. All my resistances check out on the pins. But no ticking when I shut the motor down. I didnt detach it from the intake but separated the electronics from the base like I did when I cleaned it. Sealing was not the issue as I was thinking. I checked the valve per the TSRM with voltage and it does not function within parameters:biglaugh: . Luckily for me I had a spare. So I need to find another one for sale to have another spare. So let me know if anyone has one for sale. :naughty:

Ok so I installed the other one. And fired it up!!






































IT RUNS NORMAL!!!!!!!! That was THE problem. So make note if anyone else has this problem. This could be it. And dont rely solely on the TSRM resistance measurements. If it doesnt click to then it might be dead. Thank you John and IJ, John, Dave, Jay, VIC(what is your name anyway?) and everyone who has contributed to this thread whether it be technical help or motivation. All the help and kind words all kept me going and I thank everyone.

Im trying to be realistic as I know im still in the critical stages of this build. I still have to break it in and keep an eye out for leaks and things. And hope I dont have any codes pop up. The idle is around 700 according to the factory tach. I think its suppose to be around 650? I'll have to watch that.

OH YEAH AND I DROVE IT FOR THE FIRST TIME. Did I mention that??:naughty: It was awesome cause as you might not remember. I bought this car not running. So not is it just a first to drive my first rebuilt motor. Its also a first to drive this car. It feels strong but I havent layed into yet cause of the new clutch. The tranny shifts smooth with the Red line fluids. I just drove it down the street and back, but am leaving any more drive time to the break in. I know the first 20 miles are critical and I have had to idle this thing to many minutes, diagnosing this problem, for my taste as it is. I have to check the oil level and fix that PS leak and put the interior somewhat back together. Maybe go ahead and wire up my gauges and then ITS ON!

Then bring it back and change the oil and check for leaks again. Im running water in it right now cause I was expecting the worse and have to tear something down and didnt want to have to worry about draining coolant. So I will have to drain the water and add coolant as well.

John should I go ahead and switch to the trasko at the first oil change or wait until the next? I think you said at the first at the first oil change. Ill try to post some pics and maybe some video soon. I want to try to take video of the break in. Maybe with my 7 yr old manning the camera. That ought to be interesting!!

 

[suprahooked]

Awesome news Allen and your 7yr old doing the vid is cool and he will love that too. Great father son time. Congrats.:biglaugh:

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Party at your house.

 

[Shytheed Dumas]

Wow, great job and congrats!!!

I wish I'd found your thread earlier, but it's inspiring the crap out of me to get started on mine. I'm considering buying a rebuilt short block now, but it HAS to feel awesome to have your first ground up engine build start up and run right.

I'm looking forward to seeing this car in person at one of the local meets in the next year.

 

[starscream5000]

I would put the trasko on when you switch to *insert your choice of good oil here*, at about 1000-1500 miles. No need wasting it on the cheap oil.

 

[jdub]

Congrats Allen :bigthumb:

Glad it was the valve...weird idle can get to be a real pain to nail down!
I have a chrome body ISCV...PM me if you're interested.

Are you using a single or dual remote oil filter head?

 

[mk3forme]

Thanks everyone! And you are absolutely correct Shy. It is an awesome feeling to have this motor even start let alone run so far. Im not getting to confident yet. Maybe after it has several hundred miles on it I will feel a little better. And I cant wait to go to a meet!

John I agree. I try to involve my kids as much as I can. It helps to build confidence and its more time I get to spend with them. Which I dont ever feel like I spend enough. Plus they just plain love it! My 7yr old and 6yr olds faces lit up when I picked them up from school and I told them I drove it for the first time.

I was thinking the same thing Starscream. John im running a dual filter setup. Right now I just have some Walmart filters on. After my break in run I will bring it back and change the oil. Im not sure if I should just keep the cheap filters going until the 1500 mile mark. Or maybe upgrade filters but still stay with 2 conventional until I go synthetic and then use the trasko. I will be using a Wix with the trasko. And I plan on using probably the Penzoil platinum sythetic when its time. After I use the 9 quarts of german castrol I found at autozone that is:biglaugh:. My oil system so far has held 8 1/2 quarts. I have to check it again after my drive yesterday. I filled both filters and put some oil in the supply and return lines before I installed them. Thats what kinda stinks about the new custom oil setup. I was wanting to run plus one quart over what the oil pan normally holds. But I have no idea what plus one is now.

John is that ISC you have ceramic coated?

 

[jdub]

Ok...run the SuperTec filters for the 1st 500 miles and change to the same oil...switch to dual Wix to the 1500 mile point, same break in oil. Change to the Wix/Trasko combo and go with the GC. Add 1 quart above the full mark on the dipstick and you're good.

Yep...it's ceramic coated...the aluminum base that is.

 

[mk3forme]

I know you recommend 30 weight oil. Any particular brand or does it matter since its dino oil. Also are you totally against running 40 weight especially break in. I know I have read many oil threads where you dont believe 40W is necessary. The reason I ask is that I have a bunch of 40W dino oil that has to be used. And this is the only thing I can think that I would use it for.

Break in drive tomorrow hopefully. I torqued that PS bolt a little tighter today so hopefully that will get rid of the leak. I spent most of the day hooking up my gauges and spent forever trying to do my fog light mod. I swear I cant read sometimes. I was going off an 87 model that I had printed but hand wrote the different wire colors in for the 89 +. So what do I do? Cut the color wire that was printed for the 87:3d_frown: And wonder half of the afternoon why all of a sudden I not only can get the fog lights to work but I dont have parking lights anymore either. :icon_mad: Im going down right now and try to do a few more things so I wont have to work on it so long tomorrow before I take it for THE drive:biglaugh:

 

[jdub]

Sorry...I assumed you did the initial break-in. Read this thread:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

You want to use a sraight 30W oil...not a multigrade...I would think the 40W you have is a multigrade. You don't want the viscosity improvers that a multigrade contains...just straight oil

 

[mk3forme]

I pretty much followed that article to the tee except I used 10w30 not straigth 30w. I will get straight 30w for the rest of the 500 mile break in. The multigrade wouldnt have hurt anything im assuming?

Well the kids and I just got back from the break in drive. It was pretty exciting. Everything went well with no break downs or problems. The only concern that comes to mind is I could tell as I was well into the break in that my oil pressure didnt seem as high hot as it was when I first started. I pulled over half way through the run to check for leaks and such. Found nothing. Between 2000-2500 rpm oil pressure was between 30 and 40psi. On the factory guage it was closer to 40. Its amazing how unresponsive the factory gauge is. It is so slow to react compared to the pro sport gauge. That is assuming the prosport is accurate as well. Cold though my pressure is over 60psi. Idle hot is normal about 5-6psi.

 

[jdub]

Refresh my memory...are you using the stock filter head to feed your dual set-up and oil cooler? Did you shim the oil pump? What brand oil are you using? Your oil pressure hot is really not bad

The straight 30W would have been better, but you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[mk3forme]

Well I bought castrol 30W for the rest of the 500. I used walmart brand supertech 10w30 for the break in. Im using spin on adaptor to feed the dual filter and oil cooler. Running through -10 oil lines. I know I have read -8 is plenty but I wanted good flow. I used supertech filters. I was going to get I think it was accel or accer brand oil. But it specifically stated on the bottle not to be used in modern motors. Only in Model A type vehicles. That damage could occur. That scared me away from that brand quick. So I got 30w HD castrol. Im sure oil is oil is oil but I take a statement like that pretty seriously.:biglaugh:

 

[jdub]

With that size line using a single filter/cooler circuit, your pressure is pretty good...the flow is what's really important. I'm thinking you've got plenty of flow/volume

Did you shim your oil pump relief valve?

It is a very good thing you did not use that oil...it would not have been pretty. You need an API SF rated oil at min.

 

[mk3forme]

Im glad you said that John. I was thinking the same thing about the size of the line. But I needed someone to back up my theory.:icon_bigg And yes I did shim my oil pump. I think I went 5mm if I remember correctly. I will double check the 30w oil that I bought to make sure its API SF rated.

I just came up to retire for the night. I went ahead and drained my oil and left it draining for the night. Since my block was dry I went ahead and took the top end apart and rechecked the torque on my head bolts. All looks to to be good. Under the valve covers were nice and clean and new looking. Just like I left it:naughty: I also hooked up my boost guage. We'll see if it works tomorrow. I hope to take a ride with the top out for the first time tomorrow.

I noticed when rewiring my fog lamps yesterday that when I turn on the parking lamps, I loose all the lights on my climate control. The display and the lights above the selected buttons. Im going to have to look into that.