my 89 7mgte build up thread!

[mk3forme]

Well like it said gents. Im into the process of building my first motor. Let me start by thanking everyone in advance on this forum. You guys rock! Without all this knowledge I would have never attempted this. These pics are self explanatory. I pulled the motor over a month ago, so this project is well underway. A lil history: The car the motor is coming out of is a rough shell that I got ripped on about 3 years ago now. I bought it with a blown head gasket and knew that, but the shell is much rougher than was advertised, and I have decided to not invest in it. So I bought another car to put the motor out of this one in. The new car is a 1JZ project that never got finished. I dont have time to research whats involved with that swap and Im missing some things, so that motor will go in one of the other 3 cars I have. :naughty: Yes I have four, but like I said, the light blue one will probably end up a parts car. The motor I pulled is a JDM motor that I was questioning whether it was a GE or GTE block when I pulled the oil pan. No oil squirters. But I later found out that the early gte JDM blocks didnt have the squirters. Thanks again to this forum. Yes it does have 2 knock sensors. Im tired so im going to bed. I will update with more pics and where im at with the build tomorrow
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...s parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00797.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...s parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00798.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...s parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00800.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...s parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00803.jpg

 

[mattgo]

Awesome man, good luck!

 

[amd_hcds]

I'm not sure about this but I think all gte blocks have oil squirters. Is that right or i'm wrong?

 

[hottscennessey]

He is correct, early JDM GTE blocks did not have oil squirters.

 

[mk3forme]

Thank god!!! Thanks for the confirmation Hotts

 

[mk3forme]

lets seeee. I currently have the block at the machine shop and has been there for about a month now. Like I said the block has a blown head gasket and as you can see from the pics, did some damage. It blew on #6 and had a water oil combo sitting on it since I have had the car. Which has been for about 3 years or so. So the cylinder was was pretty rough, as was the top of the block. The Machinist ended up boring .040 as .020 didnt quite clean it up. He originally took .005 of the block but said there was what he called shadow from the water damage. I went down there to look at it and was not happy with that at all. I know from all I have read how critical the surface on both block and head have to be to get a good seal with a metal gasket. So I told him to take it down some more. He ended up taking a total of .012 to clean it up completely. He is now waiting on me to get the pistons that are on order. Im not going JE or anything fancy as this is for an everday driver and im trying to keep the costs down. Besides I here time and time again that the bottom end on these motors can handle up to 500 HP. And I dont think this motor will ever come close to that. Most motors built on here that I have seen with all the high dollar parts dont see that, from what I have read. Once I get the pistons, which will hopefully be this week, then he will hone match the block to the pistons. Make sure this is done guys for a rebuild. If the machinist wants to bore and hone without your new pistons, then find someone else.

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The head was not much better. It was warped in the middle about .011 but only about .003 on each side. The limit is .0039 or almost 4 thousandths according to the TSRM. So he took .012 off to level that off. Just for reference the info I have found, and please make corrections if someone knows different. An uncut head 4.566 in height. Mine actually measured 4.572 and the machinist told me that there can be variances in the casting. That was to my advantage as I had alot of material to be cut off. According to the machinist book, minimum height is 4.560 which only allows .006 to be removed. Just some advice guys. If you dont know IJ then you havent read much on this forum. You need to know of him, as he has a wealth of knowledge about these car. If you ever have question about numbers or anything else about these cars or any other cars, then PM him. He's a good guy. IJ seemed to think I could go .020 without any problems. Luckily I didnt have to go that far. Of course you will have to compensate with a thicker gasket. Had a 3 angle valve job and of course new viton valve seals. One of the vaves were in bad shape but the machinist had a junk 7m head there and gave me a valve out of that.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...s parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00817.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...s parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00818.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...s parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00821.jpg

 

[amd_hcds]

He is correct, early GTE blocks did not have oil squirters.

I didn't know this thanks!

 

[mk3forme]

yeah that info doesnt seem to be common knowledge. When i found that info I was actually searching for something else. I just happend onto it.

 

[mk3forme]

Just a list of things im putting into this: ARP head studs and rod bolts. Im using the factory main studs as my machinist and myself are confident that the bottom end is pretty stout. Plus he said that when you use arp on the rods or the mains that you have to line hone the holes to insure roundness. The ARP's have a different type of clamping force that can actually make the holes out of round per him. He said its also stated on ARP's site. I didnt find that but I didnt look hard and took his word for it. The rods have been shot peened and line honed. New stock type 40 over pistons. New oil pump, water pump and starter. Cometic 2mm with 86mm bore head gasket. Im going to run a lexus AFM for now but might go back stock initially as I would rather get in running and make sure everything is in check before I start upgrading. Im not sure yet. Depends on whether I find a good deal on some 550 injectors. Im just trying to keep the costs down, especially on extra stuff, but not cut corners.

 

[mk3forme]

here's some pics of the blown gasket. As you can see the gasket is gone around the coolant passages. Also the cylinder ring is oblong. The #1 and #2 are the same way.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...s parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00882.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...s parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00883.jpg

 

[mk3forme]

here is a pic of another project that will be waiting for me some time down the road. This is the unfinished 1JZ install that came with the car I bought for an everyday driver. Im thinking I might put this one in my 87 NA thats in my avatar. I wanted a white 5 speed targa car with and got the 1JZ as an added bonus if you want to call it that.:naughty: It will not be a fun install as I dont have a clip to copy from, and Im already missing stuff. Uggggg!

 

[mk3forme]

This is the first time I have unplugged the connector from the coilpack. I was removing them to clean it up with the rest of the oil saturated parts. Does anyone know if the clips pictured are suppose to come off separate from the connectors. I can see one breaking, but all three?? I can't seem to get them back in, so Im assuming they're broke. All three of them snapped when I pushed the tab in to release the connector. I assumed it was normal and didnt even initially see the tabs come out. Anyone know??

 

[mk3forme]

How do I change the title on this thread anyway? Do I need a mods help?

 

[rakkasan]

How do I change the title on this thread anyway? Do I need a mods help?

Only a mod can do it. Good luck on your build, it looks as if you're approaching it correctly.

 

[bigaaron]

This is the first time I have unplugged the connector from the coilpack. I was removing them to clean it up with the rest of the oil saturated parts. Does anyone know if the clips pictured are suppose to come off separate from the connectors. I can see one breaking, but all three?? I can't seem to get them back in, so Im assuming they're broke. All three of them snapped when I pushed the tab in to release the connector. I assumed it was normal and didnt even initially see the tabs come out. Anyone know??

I hate when that happens :biglaugh:
They get brittle with age and sometimes there is no way to get them off without cracking. They will stay on without the clips, but if you want to be sure then you can buy that harness for about $25 from Toyota.

 

[mk3forme]

Thanks Aaron. I appreciate the good news.:biglaugh: And thanks for the vote of confidence Rakkasan. You seem to be a valued member of the community so that holds much value!:icon_bigg

 

[mk3forme]

Well I recieved an email from my piston supplier today. I bought these things on 10/18/06. In three days, this will make 3 weeks. The email informed me that they havent been shipped yet but will be soon.:icon_evil . I could have had another set of pistons and the motor pretty much built by now! I am so pissed!

 

[mk3forme]

update! Im back on track now as my pistons finally came in. I have been waiting on them for almost a month. Like I said they are not high dollar JE's or anything. Nippon racing .040 over. I got them and see damage to one of them. It has a small ding on the edge like its been hit. My machinist said it shouldnt matter since the top of the piston is actually smaller than the skirt. I dont know. Any advice? My pistons and rods are being weighed so the crank can get balanced. here are some pics of the stock #6 pistons. Its badddd! also come cleaned up parts
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/mics parts/cleaned up parts/DSC00917-1.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/mics parts/cleaned up parts/DSC00918-1.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00919-1.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/...parts/cleaned up parts/B4 pics/DSC00920-1.jpg

 

[mk3forme]

update I picked up my block and misc parts. Everything looks pretty good. The crank was all balanced up. I didnt realize what all is involved in that. As you can see he even removed material from the pistons to balance everything out. I can see the $175 cost now.
I measured my crank, mains, and rods for clearances yesterday. Now I need to order my clevite bearings. I had a few concerns as my ring gaps were not within standard but below the limit. I will contact IJ about this. :naughty:
I kinda like the block this color but it was suppose to be painted black. My machinist doesnt remember saying that so he didnt paint it. Dont know if I will paint it or not. Crank was polished and my cams are at the shop now getting polished. This block has cost me $800 in machining so far. just to give you guys and idea of the cost involved.

1. Bore and hone block $100
2. deck $100
3. hot tank, finish prep,install oil pump bearings & freeze plugs $100
4. install pistons, shot peen rods, hone rods for roundness with arp bolts $120
5. polish crank $40
6. digital balance crank $175
7. hot tank and bead blast misc parts $80

Naturally a rebuild could be done cheaper if you dont have to bore and balance the cranks. But I had to do both. Then my head was another $275. Im not particularly happy with the surface on the head as its not milled as fine as the block. I will show my block machinist and see what he thinks. He has built several 7m and 2jz so he will know if it will be doable or not.

 

[mk3forme]

more pics