My 1977 7M-GTE CELICA! Finished! Test drive vid on page 18!

[speedfreak426]

yup.. now I have to put it back together and figure out what to do with the axle situation.
Intercooler piping is going to be a complete bittttch.
I just got the new radiator to fit in yesterday, havent mounted it yet though.

My goal as of now is to have the car ready for the woodward dream cruise.
If I do not have the axle done by then, then I will just toss the stocker back in and weld up a temporary driveshaft so I can drive it there.

I also plan on putting the air conditioning in this car, I will just have to have some lines to the compressor made up, all the stock celica ac stuff was intact, so I believe I can mate the two together.

 

[Quin]

Any chance I could talk you into taking a pic of the JDM throttle assembly? Didn't know they were different, just curious.


Congrats on getting it running! I've considered this swap myself and I try and keep an eye open for one when I'm looking at other money pits

 

[speedfreak426]

I would be more than happy to take a pic tonight for you if you want, as far as I know the only difference is the linkage and one less vacuum port though.

 

[Quin]

Well, my linkage is all kinds of not at all what everyone else's looks like, wondering if it's somewhat of a JDM hybrid or just completely nuts. I know when I redid it I used a USDM one and machined the back post off and cut one of the legs off and modified the other, but it works now (lol)

 

[Poodles]

Personally I wouldn't cut up the old axle to put the other one in, I'd either find a way to beef up that axle, or find a better solution that might bolt in...

I'm sure someone can find a MKI axle...

 

[speedfreak426]

well idk, axle i have is free, just need the labor to swap the brackets which i can do.
I dont really have any reason to NOT cut up the axle. its not worth anything really, and nobody here in michigan would need it and I dont want to ship it anywhere.
There is no possible way to streghten up the factory axle enough to take the power of the 7M. It has a 6.7" ring gear(and open diff, not going to weld it)and was ment for sub 100hp engines. axle I can swap in that I have for free is a 8.75" ring gear with lsd, and the 7M wont break it unless it has over 700hp... which mine wont.

So idk, if someone can find me a MK1 supra axle in michigan that is within driving distance that i can pick up then sure ill do that.... but this is michigan and I dont see that happening, not willing to pay for shipping on an axle that is weaker than the one I have at hand.

 

[Poodles]

Yes, but having a backup is nice.

Also keep in mind that toyota overbuilds their stuff a lot...

 

[speedfreak426]

haha, I wish they would have overbuilt the stock T series diff!

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

hmm I thought I already subscribed to this.

Great job! I never realized how good these old Celicas look and now with some power it should be a lot of fun.

 

[speedfreak426]

I took a bunch of pictures today and I will post them up tommrow. radiator is in.... well about 95% at least.... i am going to have to remove the upper support to remove the radiator cap.... I shouldnt be removing it though because it will no longer be the highest part of the system..... I think I have figured out a way to bleed it though

 

[speedfreak426]

Here are a few updates with pictures for ya

Radiator Hoses-

I had a problem finding radiator hoses because of the new aluminum radiator ad the alternator placement, The inlet of the radiator faces right towards the alternator pulley and is about 3" away!, then needed to go across the engine, up and then angle downwards.
pic

I went to the auto vlaue and they let me in the back to see if I could find anything to help me out. I could not find a single whole hose that would work, so I just got one with a really tight upward wrap around bend and then planned on figuring it out from there..... I ended up using my stock 4cyl 20R hose mated to the one I purchased with a coupler

The lower hose was also a PITA, beause the radiator I purchased has a 2" lower outlet, and the engine inlet has about a 1.25-1.5inch inlet. let alone the crazy bend it would need to have. Once again... not much luck at the parts store here.

I searched and searched around the garage for random radiator hoses, and I found something I had forgotten all about! I had the lower hose that the JDM engine had came with. it was way too long and there was no way to get it to fit on to the bigger 2" radiator outlet, trust me I tried.
solution.... I just hapened to be looking in the trunk of my DD, and guess what I found... another coupler with a 1.5 to 2" adapter clamped to it already! How lucky is that?
So I trimmed the factory hose and mated it to the adapter and radiator.

I now just need to pick up 3 extra hose clamps and that part will be all set to go.

 

[speedfreak426]

Radiator Mounting Dilemma.... ongoing(kinda)

I could not really think of too many ways to mount this thing.... Just figured I would have to use soft mounting pads around it to keep it in place

The radiator was a reallly tight fit, I had to do a deacent amount of trimming to around the opening in the front of the car, , mostly becasue of the in/out locations, and becasue it had to be moved forward about 3"
I dont really have too many pics of ecactly what I cut, but if you look at other pics you can kinda tell, it is not the 100% finished product yet, still need to clean it up a bit.

I will not be able to remove the radiator cap with the upper brace in place.... which is fine actually, becasue it will not be the highest point in the system, When I bleed the system I will have to do it by removing the turbo coolant line on the very top of the thermostat housing. I think it should work alright.

the radiator is now held in front to back, side to side, and top to bottom, its in there pretty stiff, but with a little give to it. I used think and kind of dense foam and carpet backed padding for a lot of the mounts.... some of them are just temporary, but some will stay. (the foam pieces are actually free samples of the "BEDRUG" bed liner. haha, free is good)

Also had to do a little bit of trimming on the brace in front of the radiator to get it to fit. I didnt really havvvve to put it in there, but I want it for support of the center piece so it does not flap around.

now to more pics...
(you can also see it some of the pcs above, b ut in less finished state.)

bottom

 

[speedfreak426]

TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER-

TO mount the rear part of the transmission I used the factory celica w50 crossmember part that bolts to the car, and used the supra part that bolts to the transmission then to the crossmember.
The bolt holes are a good 4" off or so.
Close enough jsut to extend it with some thick steel though!
I was worried that this might not be strong enough at first, but now that it is finished, I have no doubt that it will be plenty strong. it is a LOT stiffer than it was origionally, turned out pretty good I think

in that last pic you can also see that the driftmotion SS clutch line has been installed. I still need to tie it up a little, but the system has been bled and works. I hope the factory celica clutch master cyl, has enough throw to fully disengage the supra clutch.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Looks awesome.
So where is the IC going to go? It doesn't look like theres room between the headlights, is there?
I assume it's going below the bumper. Please tell me you're going to paint it black so it's nearly un-noticeable.
:evil2:

PS- The exhaust piping- I don't remember if you mentioned modification to it in previous posts,
but are you going to cut the DP and raise it a bit? Looks like it is WAY below the frame rails right now.

 

[speedfreak426]

Oh yeah, and if I havent mentioned it yet.... the fuel lines are in too, obviously I guess becasue I already posed the startup vid.... but overall, Converting to efi Sucks

 

[speedfreak426]

Ongoing
INTERCOOLER, PIPING, AIR INTAKE.

SO this is going to be one of the toughest parts I believe.

Intercooler.
There is not really all the much room to mount the intercooler, it is too tall to fit all the way behind the bumper (which will also be modified for airflow, after I get it figured out where exactly I am putting it)
I really dont want to be able see much of the intercooler In this thing, i want as much of a sleeper look as possible.

Stuff that is in the way...
The bumper shocks are close to being in the way, there is a piece that goes over top of where they bolt on that will need to be cut.

PIPING
I think I can have the in/outlets ABOVE the bumper shocks, I hope so at least because I dont want to be able see any piping really from outside of the car. I am going to have to cut holes for the pipes to go through above the bumper mounts above the frame rails (where ther ac lines used to go, I guess i will have to find another place to put them later.)
the top inlet on the engine will not be that hard to hook up to the intercooler. buttt the turbo outlet to the intercooler is a different story, it will be another PITA. down, across to clear puley, slight up, forward, and then a 90 to intercooler. gay
some of the pipes are half ass mocked up as to where they might be going.

AIR INTAKE AND FILTER
Another problem here.... the factory hose with the connections I need (pcv inlets, and place to recirs BOV in the future) is too long and there is just no room for the air filter. I just have some generic air filter, nothing special, I dont want to spend 200$ on the hks foam one(mega flow?), thats redicilous.

options are.....
1.try to cut the hose down slightly on both ends and try get it to stil clamp on both ends securely and at the right angles, all while not looking like crap.
2. make another intake pipe out of a piece of 3" aluminum pipe with a bend in it, then find someone to weld on a pcv inlet. I dont want to do this becasue i can not, or do not have the resources to weld aluminum...
3. I could remove a headlight I guess, to get some more airflow, but still, that would not give me much more room for a filter, afterall I dont want the filter sticking out at all, that would be dumb lookin.

or I could do a combo of #1 and #3, but then again... want a sleeper, idk.

heres the pics, look carefully to see everthing I am talking about.

heres the intercooler if you didn't see it on the other pages.

here are the bumper shock mounts that you can see from below.... I want the in/out above these.

piping close to where it might go

crap air filter I have

and where it needs to go.... right behind headlight...ish (can also see in pics above)

and here is my final pic for today I believe.
car as it sits as of 11pm last night... getting there

 

[ms07s]

Looks to be a very tight fit. A FFIM would help a little on your IC hardpipe situation. You realy don't have much room for a filter do you. I think someone makes a cheepo copy of the hks filter.
Ebay clone.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-...003QQitemZ130055680222QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
Another one cheeper.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-JD...021QQitemZ310064767805QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW


Just remember the REAL HKS filter wasen't all that great, but it will work in the limited space you have.

 

[Facime]

for your intake, get a tight radius 3" steel elbow. Put it on the end of your accordian hose and couple your MAF to that, that should put your filter in the little dead space in front of the right fender.

EDIT: I looked at your other pictures and I realized that would be worse. But you could cut the curve out of the accordian pipe on the MAF side (or some of the curve) and angle it towards that corner still. However, the most elegant option is a new pipe made from scratch.


As for the top radiator support. I put a different radiator in my 73 whehn I did the 20R conversion and left that top piece off entirely. I soldered some brackets to the sides of my radiator to bolt in the stock holes. Never replaced the support and never seemed to be any issue that I noticed.

 

[SilverSupraT]

Looking great man.

Here's what I was thinking.... **obviously not to scale**

 

[speedfreak426]

Looks awesome.
So where is the IC going to go? It doesn't look like theres room between the headlights, is there?
I assume it's going below the bumper. Please tell me you're going to paint it black so it's nearly un-noticeable.
:evil2:

PS- The exhaust piping- I don't remember if you mentioned modification to it in previous posts,
but are you going to cut the DP and raise it a bit? Looks like it is WAY below the frame rails right now.

The ic is going to go right behind the front bumper below the grille.
It is still a realllly tight fit, I need to cut a lot of support out of the back of the bumper to get it to drop down enough to hook the pipes up.
There will not be much airflow to it at al with it hidden like that, butI am thinking that I could cut a hold in the front bumper and try to cover it up with mesh or paint the ic or something, I dont know yet honestly.