MAFT-Pro Tuning Thread Unofficial and Uncensored
- Thread starter chriso
- Start date
If you cap the frequency to avoid fuel cut, wouldn't the a/f tracking still continue to add fuel to achieve your desired a/f at WOT. Also you could use the timing control to pull timing after the cut if you wanted??
Hope doc or turbobob are still watching this thread....are those guys still active on mkiiitech?....haven't been over there in a while.
Hope doc or turbobob are still watching this thread....are those guys still active on mkiiitech?....haven't been over there in a while.
tookwik4u89 said:
sure, but if the MAFT pro's output is capped (i.e. Foutmax) it won't make a bit of difference.
tookwik4u89 said:
sure.
tookwik4u89 said:
mkiiitech = read only.
whats up guys, maybe you can help me out with my MAFT-pro tuning problems. I wish I could give you guys a file to look at, but my laptop gave out on me. My problem is this-whenever I go WOT-the car is excessivly rich (like sub 10 afr's). I found a few boost leaks and fixed them-but its still ridiculously rich. I am running on version 4.40 and my settings are all the same as the quick setup guide with the exception of the mainscale is -3% and the afterstart is at 1%. I running at 32 psi of fuel pressure with the line off and I have not hooked up afr tracking as of yet. I even took 15% out from 3500rpm on up-but its still rich-the car just stumbles and puffs out black smoke at wot. Driving around, and starting up is no problem-the car idles at 14.7 afr and has no problems until it gets into boost. Any suggestions?
just to add, i noticed that my timing was a little high (17 degree's) when I brought it back down to 10 degree's, it runs worse. It seems as if the I have a massive boost leak-but I dont. I did a boost leak test and I have a tiny leak at my methanol nozzle where it goes into the ic pipe. I am stumped.......
I bet your cams are not timed correctly (blowing boosted air right past the still open exhaust valves at time of fire) and the CPS advance is making up for the difference in overlap in order to idle. Just a thought. And because I want to help
Reset your base timing:
crank pulley to 0*, cam pulleys on center pin hole, notches on cam gears straight up, install timing belt using spring tension only, torque tensioner pulley to 36ft/lbs, install the CPS correctly, upgrade and reset maft pro, then with car running adjust the timing to 10* using a timing gun.
Reset your base timing:
crank pulley to 0*, cam pulleys on center pin hole, notches on cam gears straight up, install timing belt using spring tension only, torque tensioner pulley to 36ft/lbs, install the CPS correctly, upgrade and reset maft pro, then with car running adjust the timing to 10* using a timing gun.
Thanks alot-no codes at the moment, but i think that my tps may be out of adjustment (using the q45 tps and throttle body). I cant get the timing to "jump around" like its supposed to before you jump the diag block. I had the cps set correct before installation-but I am going to pull it out again to make sure its right. FYI-I advanced the timing again-and now it gets good afr's but I am afraid to run it like that......(if you adjust the mainscale-doesnt it advance timing also?)
if you're running the Q45 TPS, chances are it's output isn't the same as the stock TPS....so the ECU has no real way to accurately measure load.
any AFM scaling affects timing.....but you have to make some serious corrections to get that sort of effect.
any AFM scaling affects timing.....but you have to make some serious corrections to get that sort of effect.
polobai said:
Based on the Q45 wiring write up that X-Man did a while back, you need to adjust the Q45 tps to reflect ~.385 volts, you need either a voltmeter or a S-AFC to read the voltage output, maybe the Maft-pro can read the tps voltage(not sure) Here's a quote from X-mans' write up. It worked fine for me when I was running the stock ecu
I think the heart of my problems are from the tps sensor. X mans write up was great, although it did not work for me (I had to move around some of the wires to get mine to rev past 3k). My voltage is .396 for the tps-I read 0% at idle and 100% at wot. I had this same problem with timing about 2 years ago now that I think about it-and it was the tps being out of adjustment to blame. I think I am going to get a q45 to stock tps adaptor and run the stock tps. This should solve my problems for the most part, but for now I will run it on low boost and keep an eye on my egts....... Thanks for the help guys!
hmmmm..... not sure about that but im running the maftpro and have never hit fuel cut. so you probably dont need the fuel cut defender if you tune it right. but i would up either get bigger injectors if you want to raise boost safely
Hi, Thanks for a quick reply. I have AEM Wideband lamda. So i can monitor A/F ratio to see that it is safe raising the boost. Rigth now i am adjusting the fuelpressure as I increase Boost. I am running at about 20 psi now.
what boost are you running on?
I am considereing 550 injectors, but is it a must for avoiding fuelcut with Maft Pro??
Regards Qurtis
what boost are you running on?
I am considereing 550 injectors, but is it a must for avoiding fuelcut with Maft Pro??
Regards Qurtis
try it and find out if you have FCO issues....far better than having excess worry from something you read on the internet.
properly tuned, FCO should really be an issue....
properly tuned, FCO should really be an issue....
darn still having problems with my setup....It seems as if the car falls FLAT on its face when into boost(slower than stock by a considerable amount). Once into boost, the car hesitates, stumbles and pops. Getting into boost it feels great (50% throttle and 2-3 pounds)-but past that it stinks. I reset all my settings and have not updated to the newest software version yet (still no laptop)-and I am running v 4.4. The car drives great-idles amazing, and all is well until into boost. There are no major boost leaks at all, not running crazy rich into boost (low 11s a/f)-but it feels like I do have a major boost leak. I did a boost leak test and the pipes hold pressure fine. I checked codes, and got a code 52 (knock sensor)-but this is on and off, even with no code 52 it performs the same. I also got a code 24 (hac signal-should not matter, correct?) and a code 34(fuel cut off signal-but have not hit FCO as of yet?) I am stumped guys, have any ideas? By the way, all my settings are stock with the exception of the mainscale at -20% and fuel pressure at 30psi with the line off and capped.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Ok, I'm laughing, but I still don't have my car running, and I've got nobody to blame but myself.. 
Did some more math.. (Scary, as I'm no rocket scientist, and do not claim to be by any stretch of the imagination..)
New injectors are 780cc PTE sourced Delphi injectors.
Stock is 440cc. Denso's..
Fuel pressure being a constant... Should provide the following mainscale data.
The new injectors are 340cc larger than the old, about 77.3% larger is 340.12cc... So the mainscale reduction should be set at -77.3% right? (Assuming that it can be cut down to that, or -77% if not.)
Also, my motor displacement is 3.24L. And reading on here, I believe the TranslatorPro will accept the 3.24L info.. (Or will it just accept 3.2L?)
Speed density setup with timing monitor/control wires hooked up and boost control too.
I put the IAT sensor in the mid IC pipe from the cooler to the upper IC pipe... so should not be heat soak issues.
Also located the MAP sensor just behind the right head light, near the IAT sensor so the wires were easy to route. My vac line also has the BOV's on it, and is coming off the intake manifold at the front port where the fuel pressure regulator stock is sourced. (Appears it's down a tube cast into the manifold, so it should be a good source right?) Is the BOV's on there going to cause me grief however on the signal?
Here is a photo. The vac line going to the BOV's also has a T fitting going to the MAP sensor that is facing downward under the plastic headlight hood gasket trim. The IAT sensor is sticking out of the IC pipe right there too.
Ok, to go back over this again.
1) At idle, with the hose to the AFPR clamped shut, base fuel pressure is going to be 30psi. (Will check to make sure it's still the same as before.)
2) TPS is new with rebuild, will confirm it's adjusted right if there are issues there, but should not be. (As per TSRM for voltage.)
3) No concerns about ICS with this right? It just has a filter clamped over the intake port, and should control idle speed air like normal, and be "metered" by the speed density calculation from the Translator Pro right?
4) Have a good stock O2 sensor, in "stock" location, and PLX Wideband in another bung further down the exhaust where it's cooler. Plan on using the TCCS/Stock O2 for idle and running around, and will only tune the WOT for now with the Translator Pro. (Eventually, might use the low and mid ranges and build up the fuel map from that data, but for now, I just want to get this car running again..)
5) All other parameters as indicated in the manual/etc.
Also plan on running the latest 4.8 version of the software, and have the 4.4 version of the User Manual and 4.80 Online guide/worksheet to take notes and keep reccords..
Anything I'm missing?
Did some more math.. (Scary, as I'm no rocket scientist, and do not claim to be by any stretch of the imagination..)
New injectors are 780cc PTE sourced Delphi injectors.
Stock is 440cc. Denso's..
Fuel pressure being a constant... Should provide the following mainscale data.
The new injectors are 340cc larger than the old, about 77.3% larger is 340.12cc... So the mainscale reduction should be set at -77.3% right? (Assuming that it can be cut down to that, or -77% if not.)
Also, my motor displacement is 3.24L. And reading on here, I believe the TranslatorPro will accept the 3.24L info.. (Or will it just accept 3.2L?)
Speed density setup with timing monitor/control wires hooked up and boost control too.
I put the IAT sensor in the mid IC pipe from the cooler to the upper IC pipe... so should not be heat soak issues.
Also located the MAP sensor just behind the right head light, near the IAT sensor so the wires were easy to route. My vac line also has the BOV's on it, and is coming off the intake manifold at the front port where the fuel pressure regulator stock is sourced. (Appears it's down a tube cast into the manifold, so it should be a good source right?) Is the BOV's on there going to cause me grief however on the signal?
Here is a photo. The vac line going to the BOV's also has a T fitting going to the MAP sensor that is facing downward under the plastic headlight hood gasket trim. The IAT sensor is sticking out of the IC pipe right there too.
Ok, to go back over this again.
1) At idle, with the hose to the AFPR clamped shut, base fuel pressure is going to be 30psi. (Will check to make sure it's still the same as before.)
2) TPS is new with rebuild, will confirm it's adjusted right if there are issues there, but should not be. (As per TSRM for voltage.)
3) No concerns about ICS with this right? It just has a filter clamped over the intake port, and should control idle speed air like normal, and be "metered" by the speed density calculation from the Translator Pro right?
4) Have a good stock O2 sensor, in "stock" location, and PLX Wideband in another bung further down the exhaust where it's cooler. Plan on using the TCCS/Stock O2 for idle and running around, and will only tune the WOT for now with the Translator Pro. (Eventually, might use the low and mid ranges and build up the fuel map from that data, but for now, I just want to get this car running again..)
5) All other parameters as indicated in the manual/etc.
Also plan on running the latest 4.8 version of the software, and have the 4.4 version of the User Manual and 4.80 Online guide/worksheet to take notes and keep reccords..
Anything I'm missing?
no way in hell id take 77% out of mainscale. that would screw your timing map and run extremely high timing. remember, mainscale is cumulative, so any corrections you have at rpm are going to be added to -77% which would make things that much worse.
also, you would probably be better off by using a lower displacement. on my car and all the others i have tuned i use 2.9 as the displacement. it shifts the map slightly it seems, and technically stock it isnt a true 3.0.
i would do as much bulk tuning as i could with the fuel pressure. the pte's will run fine down to about 26psi bfp.
lastly, ive had the best luck out of version 4.65. i never could get 4.8 to run that smooth, even with the part throttle correction turned off.
also, you would probably be better off by using a lower displacement. on my car and all the others i have tuned i use 2.9 as the displacement. it shifts the map slightly it seems, and technically stock it isnt a true 3.0.
i would do as much bulk tuning as i could with the fuel pressure. the pte's will run fine down to about 26psi bfp.
lastly, ive had the best luck out of version 4.65. i never could get 4.8 to run that smooth, even with the part throttle correction turned off.