MAFT-Pro Tuning Thread Unofficial and Uncensored
- Thread starter chriso
- Start date
i dont know if this was addressed but i have my plx wideband which also has a narrowband signal wire which im feeding to the ecu(
so i dont have a stock o2 sensor per say) anyways i was wondering if i could use the maftpro part throttle airfuel tracking with this configuration. ive heard that to use this feature one would have to disable the stock o2 but in my case im using a wideband's narrowband signal and sending that to the ecu. hope yall can understand what im saying.
so i dont have a stock o2 sensor per say) anyways i was wondering if i could use the maftpro part throttle airfuel tracking with this configuration. ive heard that to use this feature one would have to disable the stock o2 but in my case im using a wideband's narrowband signal and sending that to the ecu. hope yall can understand what im saying.
No, because the MAFT will be trying to correct to a target AFR, and the ECU correcting to another. So it would run poorly (I believe).
Bob
Bob
Yea I understand if you're using another o2 sensor but the narrowband signal im getting is from a wideband which is the same source the maftpro is getting its wideband signal from. But I hear you bob. Its just a weird way of looking at it cause like I said the wideband is sending two signals out and not two units sending out two different signals to two seperate units.turbobob said:
sorry if that last statement sounded like jiberish.atlpd3147 said:Yea I understand if you're using another o2 sensor but the narrowband signal im getting is from a wideband which is the same source the maftpro is getting its wideband signal from. But I hear you bob. Its just a weird way of looking at it cause like I said the wideband is sending two signals out and not two units sending out two different signals to two seperate units.
i think you're a bit confused- the problem isn't where the NB signal is coming from, it's where it's going. if the ECU is supplied w/a NB signal, it will do everything it can to maintain stoich closed loop.....then setting the MAFT pro to maintain a different ratio will cause the two to fight each other....resulting in a mess.
well here it goes it took me a week to get my brother to let me use his laptop to flash the unit to 4.8,
here's some details, im running speed density, 32psi fp at idle, 40-vac line off]
i have an afpr , lc-1 reading 14.ish while idling, i have a miss.
here's some settings some one let me know if i made a mistake.
vehical-00
number of cylinders-6
disp-3.0
airflow sour-0
manifold pressure source-0
denisty -0
baro-01
fe smoothin-00
mainscale-0
afterstart-0
tm base adjust-00-correction- 1.27 (not using timming monitor yet)
afr source-1
vout setpoint1- 2.45
vout setpoint2 3.53
freq out max -0
aux1-0
afr tracking -0
freq out mode -4
freq in mode -0
low-29.90
mid-100.10
hi-143
afr min map-92.36
afr min tps-1.52
afr min rpm-2048
afr correction lean-15
afr cor rich 20.10
afr cor gain-4
afr aux%-0
tps enrich-.45
tps decay-1
tps map max-0
map enrich-.65
boost enrich-.55
throttle body size 6
maf limit /krpm 0
map tps min-0
map rpm -0
maf limit-0
maf limit tps threshold -0
user tune lo
5,5,20,25,25,20,10,10.5,3.5,0,0,0
mid
0,0,20,25,25,25,15,15,15,15,15
hi
5,5,0,15,15,15,15,15,15,15,15,15
the car is lean spiking, i keep adding fuel tring to get it into acceptle ranges,
the whole time i sat here typing ths in my car the car has idle around 14.7 goling both leaner and richer.
i do not have the stock o2 hooked up, and i was having problems using the lm programer to programe the lc-1 to have a 0-5v out point on analog brown wire..
here's some details, im running speed density, 32psi fp at idle, 40-vac line off]
i have an afpr , lc-1 reading 14.ish while idling, i have a miss.
here's some settings some one let me know if i made a mistake.
vehical-00
number of cylinders-6
disp-3.0
airflow sour-0
manifold pressure source-0
denisty -0
baro-01
fe smoothin-00
mainscale-0
afterstart-0
tm base adjust-00-correction- 1.27 (not using timming monitor yet)
afr source-1
vout setpoint1- 2.45
vout setpoint2 3.53
freq out max -0
aux1-0
afr tracking -0
freq out mode -4
freq in mode -0
low-29.90
mid-100.10
hi-143
afr min map-92.36
afr min tps-1.52
afr min rpm-2048
afr correction lean-15
afr cor rich 20.10
afr cor gain-4
afr aux%-0
tps enrich-.45
tps decay-1
tps map max-0
map enrich-.65
boost enrich-.55
throttle body size 6
maf limit /krpm 0
map tps min-0
map rpm -0
maf limit-0
maf limit tps threshold -0
user tune lo
5,5,20,25,25,20,10,10.5,3.5,0,0,0
mid
0,0,20,25,25,25,15,15,15,15,15
hi
5,5,0,15,15,15,15,15,15,15,15,15
the car is lean spiking, i keep adding fuel tring to get it into acceptle ranges,
the whole time i sat here typing ths in my car the car has idle around 14.7 goling both leaner and richer.
i do not have the stock o2 hooked up, and i was having problems using the lm programer to programe the lc-1 to have a 0-5v out point on analog brown wire..
Last edited:
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Some quick questions.
I'm finally gettting my Maft Pro installed this weekend. I've been reading up, printing out charts and diagrams, and I removed the "7" resistor on the unit so I can run the Ignition monitor etc.
My engine is 3.24L displacement. Is that going to affect the "math" much? I'm thinking of putting that in as displacement if it allows me.
I have 780cc injectors. My standard plan would be to adjust the fuel pressure so that the Vf reading is about 2.5v at idle. Do I need to adjust the mainscale so it will reach that reading?
I have the stock O2 sensor, and a PLX wideband. I am only going to hook up the PLX to the Maft Pro. I plan on un plugging, and possibly even removing the stock one once I've got the base tune where I want it, and then use the AFR tracking from idle to WOT.
Question is will the "normal" settings get my displacement and injector size even close? Any advice on changes? (There has to be a few people out there with larger injectors like mine, running the Maft Pro, and I've looked at some of their posted settings.)
Sorry about the "newbie" questions, but I'm pretty excited about setting this up on Saturday, and getting my car running again after all this down time doing a larger turbo and other mods.
I'm finally gettting my Maft Pro installed this weekend. I've been reading up, printing out charts and diagrams, and I removed the "7" resistor on the unit so I can run the Ignition monitor etc.
My engine is 3.24L displacement. Is that going to affect the "math" much? I'm thinking of putting that in as displacement if it allows me.
I have 780cc injectors. My standard plan would be to adjust the fuel pressure so that the Vf reading is about 2.5v at idle. Do I need to adjust the mainscale so it will reach that reading?
I have the stock O2 sensor, and a PLX wideband. I am only going to hook up the PLX to the Maft Pro. I plan on un plugging, and possibly even removing the stock one once I've got the base tune where I want it, and then use the AFR tracking from idle to WOT.
Question is will the "normal" settings get my displacement and injector size even close? Any advice on changes? (There has to be a few people out there with larger injectors like mine, running the Maft Pro, and I've looked at some of their posted settings.)
Sorry about the "newbie" questions, but I'm pretty excited about setting this up on Saturday, and getting my car running again after all this down time doing a larger turbo and other mods.
First of all, make sure you are code-free, and have no boostleaks anywhere, or everything will be harder.
From what I understand, set fuel pressure via afpr to something close to "middle of the road" Vf readings. Then, using the maft-pro, you scale the mainscale setting back, according to the size injectors. I.E. stock is 440cc, you leave it around 0, 550cc is around 25% larger, so you back the setting on the maft-pro to about -25, 720cc is 61% larger than 440cc, so you back the mainscale setting to -60. Theoretically you cannot max out the maft-pro's mainscale if you use the afpr as well, but the trade off is running richer at idle.
Keep the ECU happy so that it doesn't retard timing/permanantly try to run rich by default due to codes.
So keep the stock o2 sensor hooked up to the ECU, and use an extra bung for the WBo2. That will make tuning easier
Update the maft-pro's software to 4.80. Base settings will run the car quite smoothly.
Don't place the IAT sensor directly on the 3000 pipe or intake manifold, your tune will be skewed by heat soak most of the time.
MAP sensor should be tapped into the manifold itself around the driver side (away from individual intake runners) middle for the most average readings possible for smooth drivability.
Most of the settings on the maft-pro don't need to be tinkered with. Read this link, its awesome: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/MAFT/Manual%204.80.php
Don't activate p-t settings until you have a good tune.
When wiring in the maft-pro, pay attention to the difference between splicing a wire and tapping into it. Splice is to severe the wire, and SOLDER your run to/from the maft-pro and ECU. Tapping is basically a 3-way connection. Soldering will help keep your readings accurate. Buying a "third-hand" soldering stand and using a butane pen torch with a soldering tip makes things much easier.
The maft-pro itself is pretty much maintaince free once you have your settings right, so placing it next to the ECU is fine.
You'll have to shop around for a Serial to USB adapter that is compatible with both your laptop and its software. I had to try 3. If you need a USB extension (most adapters aren't very long), get a USB 1.1 extension, there's no difference in cable construction between USB 2.0 and USB 1.1, so save a little money there.
I think that covers most of it.
-Dave
From what I understand, set fuel pressure via afpr to something close to "middle of the road" Vf readings. Then, using the maft-pro, you scale the mainscale setting back, according to the size injectors. I.E. stock is 440cc, you leave it around 0, 550cc is around 25% larger, so you back the setting on the maft-pro to about -25, 720cc is 61% larger than 440cc, so you back the mainscale setting to -60. Theoretically you cannot max out the maft-pro's mainscale if you use the afpr as well, but the trade off is running richer at idle.
Keep the ECU happy so that it doesn't retard timing/permanantly try to run rich by default due to codes.
So keep the stock o2 sensor hooked up to the ECU, and use an extra bung for the WBo2. That will make tuning easier
Update the maft-pro's software to 4.80. Base settings will run the car quite smoothly.
Don't place the IAT sensor directly on the 3000 pipe or intake manifold, your tune will be skewed by heat soak most of the time.
MAP sensor should be tapped into the manifold itself around the driver side (away from individual intake runners) middle for the most average readings possible for smooth drivability.
Most of the settings on the maft-pro don't need to be tinkered with. Read this link, its awesome: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/MAFT/Manual%204.80.php
Don't activate p-t settings until you have a good tune.
When wiring in the maft-pro, pay attention to the difference between splicing a wire and tapping into it. Splice is to severe the wire, and SOLDER your run to/from the maft-pro and ECU. Tapping is basically a 3-way connection. Soldering will help keep your readings accurate. Buying a "third-hand" soldering stand and using a butane pen torch with a soldering tip makes things much easier.
The maft-pro itself is pretty much maintaince free once you have your settings right, so placing it next to the ECU is fine.
You'll have to shop around for a Serial to USB adapter that is compatible with both your laptop and its software. I had to try 3. If you need a USB extension (most adapters aren't very long), get a USB 1.1 extension, there's no difference in cable construction between USB 2.0 and USB 1.1, so save a little money there.
I think that covers most of it.
-Dave
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i have a weird problem with my maftpro. ive had it installed for about 2 months now and everything is ok except a few things. my main concern is that i ran the wiring to the center console so i can keep an eye on the sensor monitor while im driving. only thing is that i notice that when im driving sometimes the tps signal and vf signal register a 0. if i wiggle the connectors to the keypad sometimes the signal will register and sometimes not. also sometimes the rpms drop for a second and then comes back.
anyone have this experience? im thinking it may be the connector but hopefully not the unit itself
thanks
-pete
anyone have this experience? im thinking it may be the connector but hopefully not the unit itself
thanks
-pete
ill have to check it out tomorrow... wonder how that could have happened. a bent pin on the harness to maftpro plug? or on the maftpo itself?
The pins in the connector on the MAFT Pro side are very robust. The most common (which is not to say that it's common) issue with this type of connector is that the retainer clip in the harness plug gets bent and the contact gets pushed back far enough to create an intermittant connection.
I'd suspect a short or a fracture in the solder of the connector first though. But check the pins for excess play first, shouldn't be more than 1 or 2mm.
I'd suspect a short or a fracture in the solder of the connector first though. But check the pins for excess play first, shouldn't be more than 1 or 2mm.
I think his female part of the harness had to be closed up a little. Be careful as the connectors are very thin metal. I think he had to squeeze the female a little. Figure out which conections it should be and look them over real close. I tried to find the thread for you but it must be buried. I've read about every thread about Maft-Pro and I can't remember which section it was in. Sorry and good luck:icon_bigg CRE beat me to itsneakypete said:
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Thanks thedave, but I guess where I'm confused, is without scaling back 60% or so on the mainscale, how the heck is the engine even going to run at idle?
The 780's will be flowing quite a bit more at idle duty cycle than the 440's were... so I'm either going to have to turn down fuel pressure to nearly 50% less pressure, or scale back on the duty cycle being sent to the injectors by changing the mainscale right?
My last setup was 550's, and the Lexus meter with a Eman sitting over it all. Vf was in the 2.5 range, and I have not changed the AFPR setting since, or change anything on the fuel other than the injectors. (I have another fuel pump ready to go into the tank if I think it's needed, but for now, I'm going to see what one Walbro 255lph HP pump will do on my setup.)
Anyone out there running the 780's? What is your fuel pressure setting, mainscale reduction and did you tune the Vf to the 2.5v range?
I plan on soldering the connections.
I have that list printed out, and I'm going to use it to keep track of my notes/tune setttings.
I will not play with AFR tracking untill the basics are working properly.
I've searched and read around, but I still see no notes on making any changes to the timing, only notes about monitoring it. Anyone actually making changes to timing? I think I'm going to have to pull some at higher boost pressures, especially if the mainscale is pulled back 60+%. That would advance timing quite a bit right?
The 780's will be flowing quite a bit more at idle duty cycle than the 440's were... so I'm either going to have to turn down fuel pressure to nearly 50% less pressure, or scale back on the duty cycle being sent to the injectors by changing the mainscale right?
My last setup was 550's, and the Lexus meter with a Eman sitting over it all. Vf was in the 2.5 range, and I have not changed the AFPR setting since, or change anything on the fuel other than the injectors. (I have another fuel pump ready to go into the tank if I think it's needed, but for now, I'm going to see what one Walbro 255lph HP pump will do on my setup.)
Anyone out there running the 780's? What is your fuel pressure setting, mainscale reduction and did you tune the Vf to the 2.5v range?
I plan on soldering the connections.
I have that list printed out, and I'm going to use it to keep track of my notes/tune setttings.
I will not play with AFR tracking untill the basics are working properly.
I've searched and read around, but I still see no notes on making any changes to the timing, only notes about monitoring it. Anyone actually making changes to timing? I think I'm going to have to pull some at higher boost pressures, especially if the mainscale is pulled back 60+%. That would advance timing quite a bit right?
Somebody out there has to already be running maft-pro with 720 injectors. Can't be too much different than 550s
If you left the afpr right where it is, and left mainscale on the maft-pro at 0, yeah the car will start but it'll probably run like crap at first due to way too much fuel than a completly stock car that just had the TCCS reset via fuse.
You have WB, use that and reading the vf to set your base afpr (disconnect vacuum line) before you mess with the mainscale. Be safe and set it on the rich side.
Playing with the afpr is tricky in itself in that you have to lean it out enough to reach "normal" vf and afr readings, but still enough base pressure to not have a lean spike during boost.
Mainscale skews what the ECU will see for airflow, therefore how much duty cyle at any given point. After you set the afpr base pressure, use the mainscale to get things closer to where they should be, and user tables to nail it head on.
If you left the afpr right where it is, and left mainscale on the maft-pro at 0, yeah the car will start but it'll probably run like crap at first due to way too much fuel than a completly stock car that just had the TCCS reset via fuse.
You have WB, use that and reading the vf to set your base afpr (disconnect vacuum line) before you mess with the mainscale. Be safe and set it on the rich side.
Playing with the afpr is tricky in itself in that you have to lean it out enough to reach "normal" vf and afr readings, but still enough base pressure to not have a lean spike during boost.
Mainscale skews what the ECU will see for airflow, therefore how much duty cyle at any given point. After you set the afpr base pressure, use the mainscale to get things closer to where they should be, and user tables to nail it head on.