We're keeping doors and door glass, it's going to be a functional street car, just not really for everyone.
And we did some more weighing of the stuff just lying around.
- Complete front subframe just missing shocks and sway bars and on Sawblades with stock sized tires - 302lbs.
- Complete rear subframe minus shocks and sway bars on 18x9.5 XT-7's with 235/40/18s and including diff, but also missing the e-brake shoes on one side - 398lbs.
- TIP Suspension - 42lbs.
- Hatch with glass and hatch struts, no wiper, wiper motor or interior panels - 54lbs.
- Door with glass, speakers, wiring but no door panel or mirror - 70lbs.
- Steering column with switches and hub but no steering wheel - 19lbs.
- Headlight assy, no motor - 5lbs.
- Hood, which we cut out most of the support bracing under and just used 4 hood pins to hold it down - 24lbs.
- Front bumper support - 24lbs.
- Rear bumper support - 26lbs.
- Bride brix knockoff - 23lbs.
And that's all we had measured. I have sway bar weights somewhere as well, but they weren't too much. And I want to weigh the gas tank once I dump out the old gas.
But with that stuff, I'm still about 1500lbs short of what the car weighed.
And the R154 weighing 99lbs, sounds about right, I think that weight was without the bellhousing.
Does anyone have an accurate 7mgte weight, with accessories and turbo and misc. crap?
But for doors and hatch and hood, there's some savings, I will be doing a lexan rear window. But right now our stuff weighs 218lbs. And there isn't much that I'm going to take out of the door because I still want windows. So unless I can figure out a way to make them manual, they will be staying about that weight. I would like to make a better hood, but until I find someone good with fiberglass work, it probably won't happen. The gutted hood is good, it's just flexible and we're putting some venting/ducting into it, so it's going to have even less metal.
Tim