Just Another Rebuild

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Ian - JAV was looking at using a Trasko by-pass filter in combo with a Wix full flow. The Wix will have all the oil flow through it...the Trasko will siphon off about 10% and filter down to the 1 micron range. The Trasko will have very little effect on the overall flow and cause near zero restriction. Over time, all the oil will eventually go through the Trasko...it will be very clean in comparison to using a full flow (or dual full flow) filters.
 

JustAnotherVictim

Supramania Contributor
You and all your thinking. :p

Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't the filters inline? So if I'm visualizing it correctly won't oil have to pass through both filters anyway? Like put the lower resistance filter first and then the higher one after.
I may be off my rocker but it seems to make sense. :dunno: In my head anyways, lol.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Ian - that is a true statement. The Trasko just happens to be that effective due to the filter element it uses ;)
Another big benefit is it also absorbs water...any condensation the PCV system misses from combustion will be removed. There is very little restriction with the Trasko in place on a dual head since 90% of the oil is by-passed any way...most of the oil will take the path of least resistance through the Wix.
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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Ummmm so I'm not understanding the benfits other than removing condensation (which should be pulled into the PCV and burnt off anyway) ;)

I'm not being a PITA just trying to understand the theory behind your setup.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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I know you're not IJ ;)
Here's some pics:










Wix full flow filters will catch particles down to the 20 micron range, and even then at 97% efficiency. The Canton full flow filter is an exception ;)
This leaves particles smaller than that in your oil, with the ones between 10-20 microns the most significant.

A by-pass filter basically uses a roll of TP as the filter element...it happens to be very effective, but does not flow very well. Hence the need for both...any contamination in the oil missed by the full flow will be caught with a Trasko. The other by-pass filters on the market (Franz & Motor Guard) require their own oil loop to work, but function on the same principle....a small amount of oil is filtered with the rest continuing through the system. The result is very clean oil...in some cases, cleaner than when it started. Diesel trucks are a big user of the Franz/Motor Guard. The cleaner the oil, the longer it's life...water removal is a bonus...especially when the oil is below temps to burn it off.

The Trasko advantage is you can just screw it on a filter head...the internal valve does the by-pass job vs. the separate oil loop required by the others. Down side to the Trasko is you have to buy the filter elements...the others actually use a roll of TP ;)
 

JustAnotherVictim

Supramania Contributor
I love detailed info. :)

The thermostat prevents oil from going to the cooler until the oil has warmed up correct, I'm curious to why you recommend it since I recall you saying(correct me if I'm wrong) that the oil doesn't take very long to heat up?
You also said it's something I never want to fail, I don't recall having one. :dunno:
Does the thermostat have a valve that redirects the oil back to the crankcase until the oil heats up and then allows it to flow to the cooler?

For the thermostat how exactly does that hook up?

I got the summit dual kit since it was almost the same price as just getting the dual flow adapter.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G4986&N=700+115&autoview=sku

For the hoses would -4an be an appropriate size?

I figure I'll get this cooler.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BMM-70264
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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It doesn't take that long to heat up on a *stock* system...the oil does not flow through the cooler until it hits 35-40 psi. On a full flow cooler system, it's the thermostat that get the oil up to ops temp quickly as possible...better than the method the stock system uses.

You always have some flow with most thermostats, if it fails closed, your oil will not flow through the cooler at the rate to be effective. If it fails open, the cooler will get full flow, delaying the oil to get up to temp. I didn't mean for it to sound so severe...you won't lose the motor if it fails.

You want to use AN-8 line at minimum....AN-10 is a bit of over kill unless you need that much flow.

You want a 180 deg stat. What I'm going to describe requires the stock 7M-GTE oil filter head removed. The oil adapter screws directly on the block using a 7M NA oil filter stud (3/4-16)...the "out" port routes to the "in" on the dual filter head. The "out" from the filter head routes to the "in" port on the thermostat...the "out" port on the same side of the stat then routes back to the block to the "in" on the block adapter. On the other side of the stat, both lines go to the cooler...doesn't really matter which one hooks up where on the cooler. The stat should have a diagram included with it.

The way this works is the stat by-passes the cooler until the oil gets to 180 degs. The oil goes through the filter, to the stat, back to the block. Like I said, there is *some* flow through the stat, even cold. When the stat fully opens, it opens up the path to the cooler.

I would use 1/2" NPT-AN8 fittings...the cooler you linked is 3/8" NPT. Same for the filter head... 1/2" NPT-AN8 fittings. The hose in these kits is ok and uses barbed type NPT fittings, but not as good as the Aeroquip I linked to previously. You can get the cooler and filter head with 1/2" NPT if you decide to use the included hose and that will let you upgrade later when you discover the rubber hose is not that great. Just make sure you keep the hose away from hot parts of the motor...you don't want to melt a hole in it ;)

The filter head you linked to also requires a PH8A size filter...if you decide to use a Trasko on this head, the model you want is the T 3/4-20S. The good news is this model is a bit bigger. Keep your filters same as stock...3/4-16 threads.

The Mocal thermostat will require AN-8 hose ends.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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I like the Mocal because it's a very good stat and you don't have to buy the NPT-AN fittings. The cost for 4 fittings is $24 ;)
 

JustAnotherVictim

Supramania Contributor
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