Jimi's build update

bigaaron

Supramania Contributor
Apr 12, 2005
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www.driftmotion.com
If any of the rod bearings were not sized correctly if could have rod knock the first time it was started. Lots of things could cause it from a machine shop mistake but I doubt it was anything you did wrong. I know that sucks so I sympathize with you :wtc:
 

jimi87-t

Active Member
Oct 12, 2005
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Colorado Springs
Tare down starts tomorrow. Jarco called and said to pull it and they will fix it. But I am going to keep the oil pan on it for shipping. So I won't find out whats wrong until they contact me. Then I have to find some way to crate this thing up to protect it.

Mail order rebuilds......................hind sight 20/20:nono:
 
N

NDBoost

Guest
How does that airbox work out for you? I was thinking about copy catting your idea but putting my filter further inside the headlight area so that way it gets more cold air.

Got any writeups for what you used etc?
 

jimi87-t

Active Member
Oct 12, 2005
1,126
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Colorado Springs
Sabotage said:
How does that airbox work out for you? I was thinking about copy catting your idea but putting my filter further inside the headlight area so that way it gets more cold air.

Got any writeups for what you used etc?

The airbox works great. The only air that gets to it is from outside. So moving the filter out more would not be necessary. I am planning on doing some sort of write up on it. The materials I used were, ABS plastic sheet, aluminum "L" stock, and lexan (for the lid).

I should be able to get some good pics now that the motor is out of the way.
 

jimi87-t

Active Member
Oct 12, 2005
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Colorado Springs
Ok, here is a little info on the airbox. I still could not get good pics of it. Everything is black, so you can't tell whats going on in the pics. So I made a diagram that lays it out.

The ABS sheets were bought off Ebay, I could not find a vender elsewhere that had good prices. (just search for "ABS sheet" on ebay). The sheets are 1/8" thick.

The aluminum "L" stock is, 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" (thick enough to be tapped for the bolts for the lid).

The flat piece of aluminum sheet metal in the pic is what was used for joining the two pieces of ABS together, and to hold the box to the car.

I fastened it all together with aluminum rivets (except for the lid), you could use screws or bolts, thats all up to you.

I used cardboard to make templates for the ABS, I just kept cutting it until it fit the way I wanted. And then transferred that to the ABS.

I think the diagram is pretty self explanatory :dunno: If it's not, just ask me questions, I don't mind.

Here is a pic of the materials I used (served to you on a nice big dish), I forgot to put in the foam rubber I used for the gasket.

p122795_1.jpg


Diagram:

p122795_2.jpg
 

89mkthree

supies ignore irish luck!
Apr 12, 2005
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near chi town
hey,
first i have to say awesome work! i was drooling over your engine for a while. i sent the link to some of my bimmer driving buddies and they all loved it. second i have to tell you that i know how you feel with the rod knock. my supie was out of comission for about 6 months while i saved for a new clutch, then right when it was done it developed rod knock and its been down for another 6 months and i am nowhere near getting it fixed. i know its not as bad as you senario but im only 19 so to me it sucks. once again AWSOME work, i do have one question though, were did you get that intake mani. im studying automotive engingeering and i was thinking about designing one (maybe with ITB's) but that wont be for three years so i want to buy one in the meantime.

thanks

p.s. im so jealous
 

jimi87-t

Active Member
Oct 12, 2005
1,126
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38
Colorado Springs
Thanks a lot man! I'm glad you and your Bimmer buds like it. I also own a BMW and am a bimmer nut, haha. It does suck to go all the way through a build and have something majorly go wrong. But it just makes it that much more sweet when it works.

The mani I fabbed up myself (if you look at my past build updates it will show that more, link is in the first post) , but there are a few guys around that make them and sell them. If you go over to SupraForums, I think there are two guys over there that are making them.

Good luck with getting yours back up and running.
 

jimi87-t

Active Member
Oct 12, 2005
1,126
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38
Colorado Springs
Ok guys, I figure since I had to pull the engine out, I will replace the fly wheel and pressure plate bolts with ARP hardware. Does anyone know of a vender the carries them?
 

jimi87-t

Active Member
Oct 12, 2005
1,126
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Colorado Springs
Thanks IJ,
here is a PDF of their flywheel page w/ toyo. Does anyone know what the UHL # is? arp-bolts

EDIT: nevermind I found it, "UHL: Means “Under Head Length.” The distance as measured from
tip of the fastener to a place directly at the base of the head."
 
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jimi87-t

Active Member
Oct 12, 2005
1,126
4
38
Colorado Springs
Update on the motor:

Jarco called me today to let me know the crank was bad, so they replaced it, put in new bearings, and a new HKS MHG. They said it was buttoned up and should ship out today.

The bad thing is, I just ripped my thumb out of joint working on the BMW. I was wrenching down a bolt and could only reach it with my thumb, so as I was tightening it down I heard a ripping noise and thought I f'd up the wrench or stripped a bolt, but then I realized my thumb was bent back toward my wrist! So now I have a splint on it, so this will slow down the reassembling of the sup. :3d_frown: