just curious on the benefits of running with/without a thermostat? and if absolutely necessary, what temp. would be best?
thanks!
-t3d
thanks!
-t3d
is it necessary to run a thermostat in-line with an oil cooler setup?
- Thread starter the t3d
- Start date
I would say its "not 100% necessary" but it will help with warming up quicker and keeping oil at the right temps. Some setup's that run a big oil cooler can cool to much and keep oil too cold for street driving. Where the thermostat will help keep it at a constant temp. But Im no expert. Also if you already spending $450 on a full flow oiling system why not just spend the extra $42 on the thermostat and have it the correct way?
well, i priced it out and everything would run me about 400-500 with the thermostat. i understand what you're saying. i was just curious
^^^ that price sounds right, I just bought all the parts needed for my remote oiling- cooling setup 2 days ago.
i'm just trying to figure out what to do here. i'm getting almost a 1000 bucks for my tax return. i need to replace my coolant bypass pipe, so i need to take everything apart but i'm trying to figure out all that i can since i'm going to have it apart. i really want new rims, but i'm thinking i should focus on everything to keep my motor lasting as long as possible at around 400+rwhp. i want to clean up my engine bay and get rid of things that i don't need. rims sound nice, but i need more opinions! help me out guys...this is tough
-t3d
-t3d
Back in around, I guess it was 1999, I was installing an oil cooler (a pretty damned big one btw) on my 90T, and I didn't have all the fittings I needed to put the thermostat in.
So I ran without it. In January. It was about 20 degrees out.
I started my car the next day, let it warm up, and started to drive to work. As I drove, I watched the temperature gauge drop lower and lower. When I reached the toll booth on GA 400, my car was back in high idle warmup.
I pulled over to the side and let it fully warm up again, and finished my ride to work. In the afternoon when it was 40 deg out, it ran fine.
That one incident let me know exactly how much cooling capacity an oil cooler can have. And I will never run without a thermostat on one again.
Oil really only does a good job in a specific temperature range. Running without a stat could put you below that range.
So I ran without it. In January. It was about 20 degrees out.
I started my car the next day, let it warm up, and started to drive to work. As I drove, I watched the temperature gauge drop lower and lower. When I reached the toll booth on GA 400, my car was back in high idle warmup.
I pulled over to the side and let it fully warm up again, and finished my ride to work. In the afternoon when it was 40 deg out, it ran fine.
That one incident let me know exactly how much cooling capacity an oil cooler can have. And I will never run without a thermostat on one again.
Oil really only does a good job in a specific temperature range. Running without a stat could put you below that range.
Supracentral;1513425 said:
i felt i was reading a really cool story about supras. i liked it and i understand. thanks
-t3d
Supracentral;1513425 said:
This is a lot more important than you think. Lower temps = higher viscosity oil...think about pumping honey. That will reduce oil flow to the bearings. Is it going to make your motor die on the spot? No. Is it going to properly lube your bearings? No. T3d - think about it...it's not something you want to do. FYI - the range SC is speaking of is 100 deg C +/- 10 deg.
Im not trying to thread jack but what you guys think about this kit? http://prosportgauges.com/air-fuel-ratio-gauge.aspx
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Only ever ran the 180's here, 200 is a bit too hot for me as in testing back in the Z car days I noticed that Oil temp closely follows coolant temps Vs load.
IJ.;1513684 said:
+1. Granted I have only searched around for 1 hour or so, but all I have found is 180, besides Cantons witch is 200++ degrees.
I bought a MoCal one for the Chev this time (it has built in -10 male fittings) but have had great results using the cheaper permacool's, all have been 180's.
$400-$500?!?! I'm no where near that in my setup. Using standard brass push on fittings instead of AN fittings where you can will save you big bucks. AN fittings are pricey!