is it necessary to run a thermostat in-line with an oil cooler setup?
- Thread starter the t3d
- Start date
i see the thermostat is a very important thing in this setup but... what about people like me that lives in a 100F normal temps and cooling play a big factor ? how does the thermostat will work in this kind of temperature??
:1zhelp: :1zhelp:
:1zhelp: :1zhelp:
IJ, in Jetjock's thread about installing a remove oil system, he actually recommends using push lock hoses.:dunno:
IJ.;1513893 said:
IJ is damned right there. When a part that cost you less than $1 costs you a motor, you change your perspective on this stuff.
SURUKO;1513905 said:
Remember an oil cooler is just a radiator. Just as running without a thermostat in your cooling system can cause lower cooling performance, the same can happen in oil. Besides, build a car that works everywhere, you'd be surprised the curve balls life can throw you.
IBoughtASupra;1513911 said:
I think you mean JDub's thread
Push lock hose is far different than barb fittings Kenny was talking about.
O, whoops. Ok, the Areoquip is the good hose you were talking about Jdub? Those are still AN kind of fittings, right?
THink of it like running without a thermostat in that kind of weather on the coolant system? What will mostly happen in stop and go traffic? Over heating right? Yep so the same goes for oiling systems. Jdub has a great write up as mentioned. Search for it and read up on it. FYI its a sticky on here somewhere.
NEVER had a pushlock fail in 30+ years of using them but have seen quite a few barb and hose clamps fail....
That's what I'm using is the Aeroquip Push-Lock hose. $70 bucks for 20' from Summit.
I am however using hose barb fittings. Some brass and some AN. Everything has been double secured with the wormgear clamps that utilize a sleeve as to not cut/mar the hose when tightened. The clamps are made by 'Ideal'.
As difficult as the pushlock hose is to install on the barb ends, I can't see them coming off! Especially with the clamps. I sure hope not anyway!!!!
EDIT: I think I'm confused with terms here. Are the brass ones 'Barb' ends and the AN ones 'Push-Lock'?
Also, this diagram shows the use of barb ends...
I am however using hose barb fittings. Some brass and some AN. Everything has been double secured with the wormgear clamps that utilize a sleeve as to not cut/mar the hose when tightened. The clamps are made by 'Ideal'.
As difficult as the pushlock hose is to install on the barb ends, I can't see them coming off! Especially with the clamps. I sure hope not anyway!!!!
EDIT: I think I'm confused with terms here. Are the brass ones 'Barb' ends and the AN ones 'Push-Lock'?
Also, this diagram shows the use of barb ends...
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I have a mixture of both in my system.
I will say that the AN barb fittings are MUCH harder to get the hose on to so judging by that, I would say that the AN barb fittings would hold better. That's just a guess of course...
I will say that the AN barb fittings are MUCH harder to get the hose on to so judging by that, I would say that the AN barb fittings would hold better. That's just a guess of course...
Pushlock fittings have aggressive widely spaced barbs on them and are designed to work clampless with the correct hose, common brass fittings aren't.
^IJ what do you think of running these. they seem to be the same just summit's brand.
and -10 is what should be run with a shimmed pump correct?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220753/
and -10 is what should be run with a shimmed pump correct?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220753/
No probs at all CK, only failures I've heard of with pushlok has been when used with the wrong hose, I'm actually about to do this on purpose with my heater hoses as the alternative was bulky/ugly to get through the firewall and pushlock hose isn't really flexible enough to do what I want (won't clamp down correctly on the plastic Chev heater tap/bypass).CajunKenny;1514100 said:
I'm using good quality heater hose but it will pop off the AN Pushlock fittings wehn hot, I have some thin Cobra Clamps that fit nicely between the barbs to prevent this happening, if you use normal clamps the barbs slice through the hose and it fails.
black89t;1514101 said:
Yep they should work just fine!
(swivel fittings make life a LOT easier)
I also have some of these on my bench. It sounds like I should run these instead of the standard brass barb ends.
Here's another question or thought... I've noticed that some of these hoses have resistance ratings on them. Is that because static electricity builds up as the oil passes through the hose? If so, would then the mixture of different metals be a problem? As in brass fittings, aluminum fittings, steel fittings, all in the same setup...
Here's another question or thought... I've noticed that some of these hoses have resistance ratings on them. Is that because static electricity builds up as the oil passes through the hose? If so, would then the mixture of different metals be a problem? As in brass fittings, aluminum fittings, steel fittings, all in the same setup...
You will be hating it if you ever have to remove the hose
There is no static problem - you can get corrosion between different metals - steel and aluminum primarily. In a system pumping oil though, it should not be an issue.
There is no static problem - you can get corrosion between different metals - steel and aluminum primarily. In a system pumping oil though, it should not be an issue.
jdub;1514171 said:You will be hating it if you ever have to remove the hose
That is a fact! :biglaugh:
Thx jdub!