I'm changing my timing belt and this is what I found. What does it indicate?
- Thread starter CajunKenny
- Start date
make sure your crank pulley bolt is TIGHT and torqued down to 190ft lbs IIRC.
and also check your tensioner, make sure that it has the spring on the correct location and its torqued to 34 ft lbs IIRC.
and also check your tensioner, make sure that it has the spring on the correct location and its torqued to 34 ft lbs IIRC.
Probably not it, just a guess
Maybe your front timing plate wasn't machined with the block. Hence the back of the head sits lower than the front, drawing the belt to ride in the back of the cam shaft pullies compared to the crank pulley.
To tight the crank pulley bolt, you need take the tension of the other belts off of the pulley, then get some motor oil on the bolt threads and tighten it to 196 ft-lbs. Chock off the wheels and put the tranny in 5th with the hand brake on.
Any other ideas out there?
Maybe your front timing plate wasn't machined with the block. Hence the back of the head sits lower than the front, drawing the belt to ride in the back of the cam shaft pullies compared to the crank pulley.
To tight the crank pulley bolt, you need take the tension of the other belts off of the pulley, then get some motor oil on the bolt threads and tighten it to 196 ft-lbs. Chock off the wheels and put the tranny in 5th with the hand brake on.
Any other ideas out there?
Thanks for the reply.
I'll check those things. I sure don't want to put a new belt on and have it chewed up in a few miles. Know what I mean...? :naughty:
Stock motor. No rebuilds; but, a great thought. I've heard the horror stories about that scenario.
Something else I forgot to ask...
The spring is in the groove closest to the front of the engine. Is that where it's supposed to be or should I move it into the back groove?
I'll check those things. I sure don't want to put a new belt on and have it chewed up in a few miles. Know what I mean...? :naughty:
thedave925;980869 said:
Stock motor. No rebuilds; but, a great thought. I've heard the horror stories about that scenario.
Something else I forgot to ask...
The spring is in the groove closest to the front of the engine. Is that where it's supposed to be or should I move it into the back groove?
I can't believe how much bad information is posted in this thread.
It's 195ft/lbs for crank bolt and 36ft/lbs for timing belt tensioner bolt.
That little jazz about the head being at an angle and making the belt ride back, now that's CLASSIC!!!!! Put the bong down buddy. He would have bigger problems than this if that was the case.
CajunKenny- How do the guides on the crankshaft timing belt gear look?
It's 195ft/lbs for crank bolt and 36ft/lbs for timing belt tensioner bolt.
That little jazz about the head being at an angle and making the belt ride back, now that's CLASSIC!!!!! Put the bong down buddy. He would have bigger problems than this if that was the case.
CajunKenny- How do the guides on the crankshaft timing belt gear look?
Correct answer. There should be a lip on both the front and the back of this gear. Sometimes one or the other falls off.Frank Rizzo;980896 said:
From the looks of wear id say your tensioner failed... it has not been running like that for a long time... :}
Well, I'll give those answers as soon as I get the crank pulley bolt off.
Dumb questions here; but, I took off a tranny inspection plate (driver's side) and wedged a screwdriver in there. I have a HUGE-O-La breaker bar and pipe; but, I can't break it loose. Well, I probably can; but, I'm afraid to pull any harder.
Any suggestions on getting the crank pulley bolt off? I thought of bumping the starter; but, not sure at the moment which direction the pulley turns and I have no helpers at this time.
:1zhelp:
Dumb questions here; but, I took off a tranny inspection plate (driver's side) and wedged a screwdriver in there. I have a HUGE-O-La breaker bar and pipe; but, I can't break it loose. Well, I probably can; but, I'm afraid to pull any harder.
Any suggestions on getting the crank pulley bolt off? I thought of bumping the starter; but, not sure at the moment which direction the pulley turns and I have no helpers at this time.
:1zhelp:
GrimJack;980900 said:
i totally forgot about that. and its funny because thats why i just did my timing belt. i heard a little "clanky" sound from the front, thought it was my waterpump... WRONG. it was those two pressed on guides. the front had fallen off so my belt was riding towards the front of the cam gears...
just go grab another crank timing pulley/gear.
i used an air gun and it came off. used the same way to put back on.
(i tried to tighten in 5th with the e-brake. just slipped my clutch... LOL)
(i tried to tighten in 5th with the e-brake. just slipped my clutch... LOL)
LOL I don't do drugs.
And since my 90 tsrm says 196 and not 195, you must be more right than toyota.
my off the top of my head guess is way over the top, i tend to complicate things LOL
Forgive my barging in to help, I'll sideline it more often
Mr CajunKenney, all I want is to learn.
Thanks
-Dave
And since my 90 tsrm says 196 and not 195, you must be more right than toyota.
my off the top of my head guess is way over the top, i tend to complicate things LOLForgive my barging in to help, I'll sideline it more often
Mr CajunKenney, all I want is to learn.
Thanks
-Dave
I have an air impact; but, not sure it'll put enough on it to break it loose, plus I was trying to do this without removing the radiator so I don't have room for the impact. Doh...:aigo:
I seriously found a 6' long piece of galv. pipe to fit over the handle of my 24" breaker bar and I still had to lean on it quite a bit to break the tension. I weigh 140.
I did have the car in 5th, with hand brake on, and a friend standing on the brakes.
When you do bust the bolt loose and remove it, mildly tap many times around the pully with a hammer to get the pully to loosen up from the snub of the crank.
Don't lose the key in the end of the crank. Its the little half circle chunk of metal imbedded in one side of the crank.
And Blue Loc-tite everything critical when reassembly for peace of mind.
I did have the car in 5th, with hand brake on, and a friend standing on the brakes.
When you do bust the bolt loose and remove it, mildly tap many times around the pully with a hammer to get the pully to loosen up from the snub of the crank.
Don't lose the key in the end of the crank. Its the little half circle chunk of metal imbedded in one side of the crank.
And Blue Loc-tite everything critical when reassembly for peace of mind.
thedave925;980930 said:
or just get a steeringwheel puller... makes life a TON easier... for steering wheels and harmonic pulleys..
Ok. I'll go out and get buy a huge-0-la pipe that I can slip over my breaker bar.
No ideas or takers on my bumping the starter approach?
No ideas or takers on my bumping the starter approach?
Ive been a Mechanic a long time and worked on crap load of diferant cars as i work for used car lots and brother inlaw mostly... Just did timing belt and seals on GFs 88 supra.. Took me 5 minuts.. First i laid fender cover infront of radiator then put a breaker bar on crank bolt pointing strait up.. then i wedged a wrench on bracket for compressor and frame area.. Hit the key and bam that was it... bolt loose. :}
I have prob done this 50 -75 times in my life on diferant cars.. if not 100
I have prob done this 50 -75 times in my life on diferant cars.. if not 100
Ok. So then everything rotates in the form of the good 'ol "Righty tighty...Lefty loosey" when bumping the starter? If so, that's what I'm going to try. :naughty:
Not second guessing you here Hommer; but, can anyone confirm that for me?
Thanks everyone!
Not second guessing you here Hommer; but, can anyone confirm that for me?
Thanks everyone!