I'm changing my timing belt and this is what I found. What does it indicate?

[thedave925]

wedge that breaker bar and pipe under the car to the ground pointing towards the driver side. Then hit the starter.
I'd rather you break a motor mount than hurt yourself...

Things that limit power to the starter:
-Bad/corroded/dirty ground points
-Those useless lead terminals on the battery leads, get brass terminals meant for boats, no corrosion
-A BIGGER battery will have more AMPS. Volts are like pressure past resistance, Amps are the flow of power.

 

[Zumtizzle]

wedge that breaker bar and pipe under the car to the ground pointing towards the driver side. Then hit the starter.
I'd rather you break a motor mount than hurt yourself...

Things that limit power to the starter:
-Bad/corroded/dirty ground points
-Those useless lead terminals on the battery leads, get brass terminals meant for boats, no corrosion
-A BIGGER battery will have more AMPS. Volts are like pressure past resistance, Amps are the flow of power.

you can wire two batteries in series to get that extra juice.


we did that with a toyota hilux.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

That's all hack shit.

If you are not strong enough to loosen a crank bolt by hand, close the hood, go inside and watch some more American idol.

If you can't break the crank bolt by hand, then riddle me this, how do you plan to torque the bolt (OH shit you mean I hafta tighten it?) when you are all done playing mechanic?

 

[Keros]

That's all hack shit.

If you are not strong enough to loosen a crank bolt by hand, close the hood, go inside and watch some more American idol.

If you can't break the crank bolt by hand, then riddle me this, how do you plan to torque the bolt (OH shit you mean I hafta tighten it?) when you are all done playing mechanic?

Probably by not having to torque against corrosion and anything else holding it on? Eh? Tightening on clean threads with a new bolt is entirely different than loosening a bolt that's probably partially bonded to the threads.

Putting a bolt on to any toque is always easier than taking it off an 18 year old car.

Mastercraft makes a 36" breaker bar... and breaker bars are cheaper than ratchets. If your breaker bar breaks before the bolt does, something is wrong, lol, and you're applying alot more than the 196ft-lbs that it should be torqued to. I think my 16" breaker bar would probably require more than 200ft-lbs to break... Get some liquid wrench in that sucker?

If all else fails, heating the bolt may be the only solution, but as jdub pointed out, the pulley should be replaced if that is done. Not the best solution... but if you're about to snap a 24" breaker bar, and you broke a 1/2" drive ratchet, clearly you're applying alot more torque than this bolt is supposed to be tightened to... if replacing the pulley and bolt is an option, I'd give heating it a try.

 

[HommerSimpson]

Some people are not as strong as other's never fault someone because they are not as strong as you..

Now if all eles fails and if its a stick wedge that breaker bar real real good get someone to tow ya and pop the clutch... just remmber push it back in asap lol or breaker bar and bolt be laying in road...
Now thats the hard ass way to do it... but by god it will break bolt loose..

 

[CajunKenny]

Well, I am not by any means the strongest guy out there; but, certainly not the weekest either. Lack of strength isn't the issue.

As already stated, the fact that the bolt has been on there for 21 years and been exposed to road grime, moisture, weather, and who knows what other foreign liquids from the road, I'm sure it's rusted on. It's gotta be!

The ratchet that I broke wasn't no slouch of a ratchet either! It was a 2 foot 1/2 drive Craftsman. Well capable of handling 190 ft pounds of tq. Or more. On top of that I had a 3 foot pipe. I don't know what kind of ft pounds I was applying; but, it was a lot! A 2 ft ratchet and a 3 ft piece of pipe should've broken it free; but, it didn't.

Alas, the saga continues... :nono:

 

[Keros]

A 3ft peice of pipe would only need ~70 pounds to be well over 200ft-lbs.

Buy the biggest, meanest breaker bar you can get ahold of, and go for it with a giant cheater bar on an impact socket.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

AHH you figured it out Keros? As you posted, you only need 70 pounds of pressure to break it loose (YOU said it, I have NFI).

Next thing you are going to tell me is you use the same pipe on your torque wrench, correct?

Craftsman is junk. Anyone that tells you otherwise doesn't do this for a living.

Oh and if you snap a breaker bar on your crank bolt, send the bill over to me. I've done many hardcore jobs (I work on diesel trucks for a living) and NEVER broke a breaker bar, bent it like a banana SURE, but never broke one. I torque lug nuts on rigs higher than most people torque their crank bolt, everyday pal.

Like I said, If you can't get the crank bolt off with a breaker bar and a pipe of YOUR DESIRED LENGTH, then you have no fucking chance of torqueing the crank bolt with a torque wrench, period. I'm done here anyways. BUH BYE

 

[CajunKenny]

Alrighty then... Not sure what prompted all that; but, anyway... Hopefully it's all out of everyone's system. Sometimes we forget that this forum is a community for people of like interests to share tips, tricks, and friendly advice. :icon_bigg

That being said, thank you to everyone for your suggestions. I will consider all of them and see what works. I decided just to put it back together because I'll be Auto-Crossing this weekend. I'll make a re-attempt the following weekend when I install all of my new goodies. And hopefully have a better outcome. :biglaugh:

Thanks guys! Stay cool my fellow supra bruthas and sistas!!!

 

[kaz87supra]

sounds to me like the belt may have been replaced in the past and they used loktite when reassymbling it.

this was the case on my 22r in the work truck. used a 24" snapon breaker bar and a 4ft pipe, broke 2 normal snapon 6pt sockets and had to go get a impact socket.

at that point the clutch began slipping instead of breaking sockets. to solve this, my dad cranked on the pipe while i used a 3lb hammer, beat on the breaker bar in the ccw rotation to impact the bolt... with the clutch slipping we had to regroup and hamer again and again. but in the end it came loose.

i hope you find an easier way but maybe if it comes down to it this experience will help

 

[KMinAF]

Toyota has a "special tool" that holds the crank both for loosening and tightening.
My son made one for me out of scrap laying around the shop. It took him all of an hour to weld up and I have since used it many many times.
I have found that the paint on the damper will bond the crank bolts to the face of the pulley which acts like thread lock making them very difficult to loosen, but I have always been able to loosen them using the starter/breaker bar method. Make sure there is a little play between the bar and the frame/ground so that the starter will have a little momentum to snap the bolt loose.

 

[CajunKenny]

Yeah, after reading everyone's suggestions, I think that's part of why the "starter" method didn't work. I didn't have any gap at all between the frame and the breaker bar. I was afraid to use the ground for fear of it lifting the car enough to allow for a whole revolution with the breaker bar attached to the pulley bolt. That would be BAAAAAAD! :biglaugh:

In my next attempt I'll leave a gap between the breaker bar and frame/ground as you suggested.

 

[tlo86]

my timing belt started doing that.. oddly enough.. not taking any chances anymore replacing tensioner balancer and gear and guide Lol

i doubt it would lift the car

 

[DegreE]

Wow, mine with 235k miles came right off with my MAC 1/2" impact and a harbor frieght 19mm impact socket on the first try.

Then the harmonic balancer just needed a little jiggling with some elbow grease and slid right off.


GL with everything.

PS: I hope you're using all genuine Toyota parts from the dealer. They're not as expensive as you prob think. I just did mine on Wednesday and I went ahead and replaced my waterpump, all 3 drivebelts, thermostat with gasket, timing belt, and tensioner with new spring. I ended up dropping $250 at the parts counter that day. Not as bad as I expected.

 

[Keros]

I've done many hardcore jobs (I work on diesel trucks for a living)

You're so hardcore on the internet Frank.



Kenny, just keep trying different suggestions, it'll come off eventually. I don't think it'll lift the car, I have "heard" of it happening, but I think the bolt will break loose before that happens. Probably lifting 1500lbs on a 2ft torque radius, that's serious buisiness Bolt = owned at that point.

 

[ABQMK2]

I just removed mine a few min. ago. Pulled the rad...15 min. Pulled fan and water pump 15 min. Took my impact( got it at sams club, goodyear brand blue) 19mm shallow socket and it spun it right off.

Now im stuck at the crank pulley. i cant get it off by hand. going to autozone for a pulley puller.

Im using a 100psi on my compressor and think my impact is adjustable upto 250lbs...i though i was 500lbs but i cant remember.

how is going so far?

 

[Frank Rizzo]

You're so hardcore on the internet Frank.

Feel that sting big boy?

That's pride fuckin with ya.

You gotta fight through that shit.

Don't get mad because I know the right way to take a crank pulley bolt off, and you have NFI.

I have "heard" of it happening

I'm sure most of the garbage that you post is "heard of".

The difference between you and me, is I actually do this shit everyday.

You talk about it everyday.

 

[GrimJack]

Only one problem...the crank pulley (dampner) has rubber in it
Plus, I wouldn't re-use that bolt.

Truth. New bolts don't cost much from the local dealership, though.

PB Blaster would probably work as well, without hurting anything...

Not likely. The design of this bolt is 'special', as in, short bus special. It has a built in collar, AND a smaller radius section after that before the threads. PB would have a hell of a time getting all the way back to the threads.

Gotta say, folks, for all the people getting this out easy, you're lucky.

On the other hand, for those having problems, put your back into it - I've BROKEN these bolts, by hand, more than once. (Getting the rest of the bolt out of the crank after you snap off the head is a BITCH, btw.) I'd use the torch method and replace the bolt / damper before I go through that again.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

The design of this bolt is 'special', as in, short bus special. It has a built in collar, AND a smaller radius section after that before the threads. PB would have a hell of a time getting all the way back to the threads.

x1000

I thought I was the only one who noticed the smaller diameter section before the threads.

Short bus special LOL so true.

I never said mine came out easy.

Yet another reason why I torqued my crank bolt the way I did.

 

[thedave925]

Frank, by what method did you retorque the crank bolt?