I'm changing my timing belt and this is what I found. What does it indicate?

[tlo86]

Frank, by what method did you retorque the crank bolt?

he held the flywheel with his bare hand and used his feet to turn the torque wrench

 

[upgradedsupra]

Truth. New bolts don't cost much from the local dealership, though.

Yup, a must.

On the other hand, for those having problems, put your back into it - I've BROKEN these bolts, by hand, more than once. (Getting the rest of the bolt out of the crank after you snap off the head is a BITCH, btw.) I'd use the torch method and replace the bolt / damper before I go through that again.

Ask me how I know that one make custom sleeves to fit over the snout of crank to ensure you get the drill perfectly straight and take about 2 hours to drill it out. VERY VERY, time consuming and hard work. Been there, done that.

Duane

 

[jmanbball]

Reading this thread makes me glad that I live well south of the rust belt and that my car is from here too.

 

[bigaaron]

There should be a lip on both the front and the back of this gear. Sometimes one or the other falls off.

:withstupi

I got my money on this as the cause of the problem!

 

[CajunKenny]

I'm thinking that too. As soon as it was mentioned, I remembered that there is this ever so slight little rattle type noise. It's not consistant though. I may go a week without hearing it.

Hey Aaron...thanks for the hook-up on the Intercooler by the way. I do appreciate it! :icon_bigg

 

[Reign_Maker]

he held the flywheel with his bare hand and used his feet to turn the torque wrench

Dude, that's ALMOST sig worthy... OMG! :aigo:

 

[IwantMKIII]

Honestly, i would just get another torque wrench and try again. I highly doubt the torque wrench you boke was in good shape and more than likely failed from wear/manufacture imperfection or some fracture from a previous use. A typical 1/2" drive handles upwards of 500ftlbs of torque and that's probably disregaurding safety factors in the specs (of course this heavily depends on what its made of and how its made).

 

[gte]

i used an air gun and it came off. used the same way to put back on.

(i tried to tighten in 5th with the e-brake. just slipped my clutch... LOL)

You either were over tightening that crank pulley or your clutch is garbage. 196ft*lb's shouldn't slip on your clutch.

 

[supraguy31]

Ok, Getting back to his Original Question. When I had my first 7M built a few Years back I incountered the same thing. Timing belt was riding to the back part of the timing gears to the point that the Belt was being eaten into.

I decided that... OH SHIT... Let me get another belt on there, Short story, Pulled everything apart and once I got the front timing belt cover off, I looked and the Back part of the timing belt drive gear on the crank had come apart and there wasnt anything keeping the belt from sliding back into the motor. Switched it out, Installed a new on and havent had that Problem since. I can Pretty much guarantee you that this is the Problem. the outer rings on those timing belt drive gears come off pretty easy.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Good work, sherlock.

 

[black89t]

i just tore my spare motor apart that was sitting in my garage. the crank pully bolt cam of no problem with a snap-on impact gun. that is what i would recommend. crank up the psi on the compressor too. i think mine was at 150psi. the hammering of the impact gun is what gets it.

 

[TurboWarrior]

I just left the car in gear, ebrake up, rear wheels on the ground. And I was able to muscle it to 195ft/lbs that way.

 

[spoolin87]

Just did mine two weeks ago and the breaker bar with extention cranking over the motor worked great..

 

[antman]

Dude, that's ALMOST sig worthy... OMG! :aigo:

Yeah, that was pretty freakin funny!