idle/driving problems, with vid.

[GotTurbos?]

So I'm nearing the end of the swap process and have come upon these problems. It has a pulsing idle, from 1400-2100. I can mess with the tps to get it to stop pulsing... with a downside of having an idle of around 3k rpm! I'm fairly certain I've verified my ISC is in working order, as I swapped it out with my friends isc on his car (which runs fine) and the car still did the same thing.

The second problem is when I actually take the car out to drive it, somewhere around 3000rpm it just cuts out and I can't accelerate past that point.

Here is a video of the car idling:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1K0Kmqlr-k


Another thing I noticed, which may or may not be related to any of these issues, but if I blip the throttle it will raise the rpm's and kind of hang there for a second. I'm pretty sure you can kind of hear this in the video towards the end.

Mods are:
mkiv 550's with resistor pack
2j map sensor
Fuel pressure regulator set at 38psi, with the vac not attached
VRP61S turbo (garrett)
3" turbo back
mustang O2 sensor
AEM Wideband
AFC Neo



What do you guys think could be causing the problem?

Thanks in advance,
Jon

 

[Datsrboi]

Have to add wiring are check time after time and verified GOOD. CEL light does not seem to want to give up any codes. When jump it stays solid.

Whats weird is that his ECU is good and verified good. When we put my ISC on his car it stop the surging for about a minute.. I mean the car was running GOOD. Then all the sudden it started doing it again.

 

[Bigzavs]

poop crap

 

[JonoTurbo]

Check the crank position sensor, the 1jz uses it to help set idle.

 

[Bigzavs]

jon, ive got a good crank sensor at home if you wanna try it

 

[annoyingrob]

I still say it's the TPS. adjust it properly, not by just playing with it. It's an EXTREMELY precise piece to get right.

 

[sctwinturbo]

i have the same problem
my 1jz was doing the same thing
i plugged up the isv and cracked the throttle plate a little and it even out . hard to start but idles good for a day and tomorrow you have to re ajust it it is the isv valve maybe wireing or the water loop but its isv for sure
i know it cant stay like that but thats the problem isv
as for the 3000rpm rev
i have the same problem but when i reach 4000rpm the car launches off like a bat out of hell
it has something to do with the fuel pressure try lowering it a little

 

[Satan]

I've had similar issues and have got it to the point where the idle does not bounce anymore, does not run too rich, and can rev past 2K RPM. Mostly because I adjusted the TPS.

However, even after changing out the plugs, it seems that it's sputtering/breaking-up at anything over 2K RPM.

A local JZer is gonna stop by this evening and doublecheck my TPS setting. Hopefully that's all it really is. I'll let ya know later how it turns out.

 

[GotTurbos?]

I just tested my 1j and 2j tps' side by side and found interesting results. I had the ohm meter on the idl and e2 pins on the tps, and where the 1jz tps was showing 4.14 ohms the 2j tps was showing 0.04-0.05 which is where I'd imagine it is supposed to be. This would mean my tps is broken right? I can't find any solid results on what the 1jz tps is supposed to be showing but I found that particularly interesting. Any input?

 

[Dylan JZ]

I just tested my 1j and 2j tps' side by side and found interesting results. I had the ohm meter on the idl and e2 pins on the tps, and where the 1jz tps was showing 4.14 ohms the 2j tps was showing 0.04-0.05 which is where I'd imagine it is supposed to be. This would mean my tps is broken right? I can't find any solid results on what the 1jz tps is supposed to be showing but I found that particularly interesting. Any input?

hmm, well all things considered I'd say that may be your problem.. I have no idea on the 2J sensor though. I'm sure someone will help out later in the morning.

 

[GotTurbos?]

Tested another known good tps today and the readings came out the same as mine. I decided to let the car idle for an extended period of time just to see what happened and I'm glad I did. Here is what happened:

Started up and idled at around 2k rpm for about 5 seconds
Idle dropped down to 1400ish and started doing the usual pulsing from 1400 to 2100
about 5 minutes later it started to make a misfire sound, kept that up intermittently for a minute or so
All of a sudden the rpms dropped down to the 500 range, idling like shit, then a few seconds later it started pulsing from 400-800ish
about 30 seconds after that the car dropped way down in rpm, struggling to keep itself alive, then died.

The car will no longer start.

Interesting! Also the CEL refuses to give me any codes, or even give me the steady flash letting me know there are no codes. My friend was here and gave Bigaaron a call at this point and he seems to think its the ECU, which I'm going to have to lean towards now too. However I opened up the ecu and everything looked okay to me, so I don't know whats going on there! I'll try to get one of my friends over here with a known good ECU for me to plug up.

Jon

 

[JonoTurbo]

Yeah the ECU seems to cause just about any and all problems, and you can't even really verify them to be good by putting them in another car. When my ECU went bad my car wouldn't start no matter what I did. So I put it in my friends car to check and it started right up. But in the end, it turned out to be the ECU anyhow.

 

[supra1jz]

hey man my car did that you need a idle air controler you can block it off till you get a new one it will cost 500 in the toyota ok now you know i have not got one yey cause off the price good luck.....

 

[Satan]

TRD87T helped me do some troubleshooting the other day and I'm having very similar issues. Looking more like the connection/wiring AT the ECU. This is why the car would start up when I swapped ECUs, but have the same issues later.

Car would turn-over and not start and he saw that the ingnitor wasn't getting the correct signal, unless I "moved" the ECU, to re-establish that connection. I've had a similar issue where the CEL would not come on, until I pushed/wiggled the wire into the ECU connector (though it seemed good). Wierd stuff.

He's got an oscilliscope(SP?) that he was using to monitor different signals. Anyways, swapped out my E9 connector yesterday and now need to find an E10, to finish it up. I have an extra ECU you can borrow, but if it's a loose solder joint and not a connector, you my have the same symptoms with mine.

 

[Bigzavs]

ok, im gonna update this since the OP is in Austin today

hes going to check his timing see if it maybe jumped a tooth, as well as he has my spare cam position and crank position sensors which i have run and know are good, so once he swaps those out hell post up about the progress

also, noticed something last night, he jiggled the ecu around and his AFCNeo had intermittent power, it would shut off and come on in accordance with him moving the ecu around, so hes gonna double check his wiring and make sure its solid there as well

 

[Satan]

Picked up an E9 and E10 connector today from an SC300. Will replace all of my old wiring/solder with the strands from the E10 connector I just picked up. I'm also going to double check the dash connections.

When I borrowed another 2J ECU, it had the same sputter, so at this point I am fairly sure it's something in the wiring... maybe specific to the Tach's connection.

I did get another weird symptom the other day, when it did start. The aftermarket temp guage went all the way past 250 degrees, before the car really warmed up. It may be a bad connection, since I did re-do the E9 connections, but since I have not started the car again, I have not noticed it spike up like that anymore (while trying to start).

I'll be re-doing the E10 connections tomorrow AM, 'cause it's just too dang hot in the DF-dub!! Heatshink tubing may start shrinking before I can get it on the wires ;-).

FYI... Came across a few MKIIIs which had the tan interior, fairly intact. Guage clusters looked good, but I was looking for the engine harness connections for an 89+ and they did not have 'em. I did pick up an 89+ climate control and LS400 MAF.

 

[Datsrboi]

Go back and hand re-solder all the wires.. Do not crimp them.

 

[Satan]

Resoldered everything coming off of the E10. I only have a butt connector on a temporary wire coming from the coolant temp sensor now. A/C blower's working and the temp gauge is good too.

Did get a code 78 this time 'round (Fuel Control Signal), so need to re-check to see why (I may have missed something).

oh yeah... still idling at around 1K and rich. There's a sputter/breaking-up that is more evident when I rev at 2K+ RPM.


Any update with yours Jon?

 

[GotTurbos?]

No update yet, was in Austin all yesterday and today until 5am. I'll try to get some stuff done today, figure out specifically which wires are giving my problems, I really need this thing running soon!

 

[Satan]

I swapped ECU and still had the same symptoms, 'cept it did not shake alot at idle. I could hear the sputtering, etc., but the engine did not seem to bounce-around as much and was very steady.

I am believing my injectors are a factor as well. Looking for a replcement set to see what I can do.