How would you get the heat out of your Supra?
- Thread starter SUPRASTEVE
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475rwhp459torq an climbin
adampecush;1062567 said:
I have it installed properly for sure, and it is the Earls billet aluminum thermostat. It has directionnal arrows pointing showing the flow of in and out. This is the first thing that I checked.
I think part of the problem is that the filters also act like coolers and they hold like 3 quarts of oli by themseleves. The are mounted on the front bumper subframe and the air from the Bomex vents ut the back on the side of them.
This coupled with the 13x6x2 cooler keeps things extremely cool. During the summer weather like now it will drive between 140, and ususally hit 160 while driving. In the winter it does not want to go over 140 while driving. After evaluating everythhing I think a small part of the problem is my tuner tuned the fans to come on at 91 degrees centigrade, and to go off at 89 degrees centigrade, and may have put a lower thermosat in than 195 degrees. I also think that the fan is coming on too frequently over cooling things aslo.
Well I am Running with out the Seal , But my supra is never in the rain any more . I am currently adding a lot of metallic dryer hose in the area between the right fog light area and the power stearing pump area to guide more air past the turbo and oil filter . I am not really sure if it is helping , But I think it is so no harm no foul .
I still need a few things . I need a fan shroud. I am also planning on getting smaller eletric fans and wiring them to come on at a higher temp then normal as a safty net some what.
I do A lot of mountain driving ( Not drifting) and I push her a lot . with the fans Iwant to set them up to run for a time after my TT shuts down the car to help move air from under the hood
I still need a few things . I need a fan shroud. I am also planning on getting smaller eletric fans and wiring them to come on at a higher temp then normal as a safty net some what.
I do A lot of mountain driving ( Not drifting) and I push her a lot . with the fans Iwant to set them up to run for a time after my TT shuts down the car to help move air from under the hood
john93t;1060643 said:
I was thinking about doing this but my cars body is in great shape and I don't want the heat to start messing with my paint. I just want to keep the original paint as long as possible. Will removing the rubber seal let the heat to my paint too much? Sorry if a dumb question but I was just wondering.
IJ.;1061186 said:
I stand by this and everyone who says to keep the undercover, its a HUGE difference.
I blew a small radiator hose that emptied my entire coolant supply, ALL of it trickled out the bottom so there was no smoke or indication that it was being emptied other than the coolant light. I was on the highway on a 90+ degree day and noticed the coolant light, i made it 40 miles on the highway to the nearest town and the temp didnt flinch, and yes it works. When i pulled over and had it idling to look for the leek the temp gauge finally twitched upward a couple millimeters.
Good air ducting will save you especially on the highway.
Ps. I also have removed the rubber strip behind the hood for over 3 years now and havent felt the ill effects even in the carwash, so i dunno i guess i'm just getting lucky. I pop the hood and the engine is dry, meh.
MaJiKaL TaNk;1063501 said:
I would leave it, if you aren't having overheating issues...why try to cool off the engine bay beyond preventing that heat from emanating in the first place? If you have a turbo I say aftermarket heat shielding/turbo blankets and call it a day. toyota put that seal there for a reason....
americanjebus;1063726 said:
You mean just your overflow emptied? you still had some in the circulation though, right? I can't see your engine running to well after 40 miles on no liquid coolant... the temp sensor only can read temps it touches so if there wasn't any circulation i'd worry what temps the other end of the engine reached with little or no liquid in there and just air to cool it...
its probably ok if you've put a bunch of miles on it though...
americanjebus;1063726 said:
i think there's enough air-intake for the AC and little plastic walls to prevent any water from flowing down there. the water flows through the plastic screen and out, so unless you hit the hood from the back to the front with a sprayer i doubt you'd see any water under the hood.
Someone on this forum or at SF actually meassured pressure on a few different spots on the supra while driving. Showed that its not working to raise the hood or remove the rubber because thats a high pressure zone and you get air entering the bay not exiting and then the air has to go out under the car creating lift...
If I remember correctly a small scoop facing the windshield just above the coilpack, or ducts behind the front wheel like the c4 vette proved to be the best for lower temps.
(with the plastic undercover in place)
And finally to you who commented my spelling last time, :thefinger
suprafredde
If I remember correctly a small scoop facing the windshield just above the coilpack, or ducts behind the front wheel like the c4 vette proved to be the best for lower temps.
(with the plastic undercover in place)
And finally to you who commented my spelling last time, :thefinger
suprafredde
suprafredde;1064049 said:
Exactly why a cowl induction hood works. Due to the pressure differential it draws in cool air when the vehicle is in motion. When the vehicle is stationary, it will vent hot air as that is the highest point of the engine compartment (heat rises up and out). When I was driving at speed on a rainy day I could see the rain drops being sucked in the back of my cowl. When I would come to a stop I could see the heat waves billowing out the back.
theWeezL;1064202 said:
I totally forgot about cowl induction hoods....damn. :nono: i feel silly.
sorry, i'm not everyday....anyways, i'm still rebuilding and haven't put it on yet, but you can see the product at THERMOTEC.COM. it's shiny silver on the side that faces down to the engine and blanket-type material that goes towards the hood. they also have liner spray adhesive, but i'm not cool onthe idea of spraying glue on my hood directly. i'm replacing the hood liner pins. dunno yet. it might be awhile b4 i do it, but i'll keep you guys up to date.
IJ.;1061731 said:
"Why do drift cars jack up the back of their hoods?" is usually the response I get to shooting down people that remove the seal.
Drift cars are at HIGH RPM and slow speed for most of their use. If you're doing such a thing, then fine. If you're on the highway or doing ANY highspeed runs, you can actually HINDER the function of the radiator.
Drift cars are at HIGH RPM and slow speed for most of their use. If you're doing such a thing, then fine. If you're on the highway or doing ANY highspeed runs, you can actually HINDER the function of the radiator.
Fwiw the Body Electrical Manual (which covers the climate system in detail) shows pressure distribution vectors on the car. The base of the hood/windshield is quite a bit positive. One reason the fresh air inlets are there...
Reverse flow cowls vents scoops in the hood infront of the engine behind the radiator that suck air through the radiator and create more downforce for the car works well if they are placed in the right spot wont get water on your engine.
Removing the rubber seal or raising the back of the hood to alow exhaust and poisonous gas fumes into the cabin vent portions is just plain dumb.
Other good things to consider is air to water cooling for intercooler comined radiator and FMIC in one assembley there is a place in australia that makes these.
mounting the radiator horizontal or tilted with revese scoop above the radiator and plumbing direting air efficiently as such help kind of like the GT40
Removing the rubber seal or raising the back of the hood to alow exhaust and poisonous gas fumes into the cabin vent portions is just plain dumb.
Other good things to consider is air to water cooling for intercooler comined radiator and FMIC in one assembley there is a place in australia that makes these.
mounting the radiator horizontal or tilted with revese scoop above the radiator and plumbing direting air efficiently as such help kind of like the GT40
jetjock;1064669 said:
can i see that page? if you remember where it is easily...
just curious what it looks like.