HID Bi-Xenon, 5000k vs Hella Halogen, Pics!

[shaeff]

the dark spots aren't above the cutoff, which is why i mentioned them. i figured the flare was supposed to be there, but there are two very obvious diagonal slashes. i don't like the way they look, very concentrated beam.

i figured it was the movement of the bulb causing the left shift as well. the only reason i could think of would be the pattern on the exterior of the bulb. (the tringualar wedge shape faces toward the driver's side)- it seems as if the shifting of the bulb is causing more light to be scattered to the left side of the road.

exactly. be sure to post what you find after you modify your HID's to your liking! the light is excellent, the pattern- not so much.

-shaeff

 

[Poodles]

try dropping in some cheap H4 bulbs into the housings and see what I mean...

I have one good camera, but it's with the girl...

 

[3p141592654]

The high beam indicator is driven through the low-beam filaments. Its a bit of a weird design, but my guess is the HID ECU is not supporting the small current through its low-beam circuit like the regular halogen filaments do when they are powered off.

Best way to make it work is to replace the indicator bulb with an LED, and then use a small resistor across the low-beam headlight circuit, like maybe a 400ohm 1 watt resistor. You would need to play with the resistance until you get the desired brightness.

 

[spipedong]

Anybody have a comparison pic of the Hi/Lo kit in the E-Code housings?

I know what the low beams look like in my own car, but I'd like to see what the highs look like too in case I want to get a new kit...

 

[improved]

Mine came as a kit where you just unplugged the plug from the stock globe and plugged the Ballast in and it powers the HID, I ended up wiring in a bunch of relay's to help solve an issue where one or the other Hid won't fire up when switched on (Instantaneous current draw is a bit excessive for the stock wiring on startup)

The High Beam indicator works as usual.

The "Instantaneous current draw" seems to be having the same affect on my car as well. I can't have both wired correctly, although both will not fire up with both connected to power.

Maybe you would be so kind to expand on what the "bunch of relay's" consist of...

Matt-

 

[improved]

Well the "Instantaneous current draw" was the problem keeping my set of Pilot H.I.D.s (H4) from working. The stock harness was the main issue, it would only power one light and flicker the other one at initial start-up and thereafter would not power two H.I.D ballasts.

I purchased a relay kit, it required an extra 10 minutes of install time. It included the wiring and relay's to receive power directly from the battery to the ballasts.

It powered both lights with no flicker or momentary light loss.

Good luck future H.I.D. installers.

Matt-

 

[shaeff]

i'm going to bump this for an update, even though these are in my 4x4 yota pickup instead of my supra.

i was tired of the hot-spot effect i had before, and the lack of a perfect cutoff like i had anticipated. i spent another 15 min in a 100% dark parkinglot last night playing around with the adjusters. (keep in mind- hella e-code housings, HID bixenon kit)

i got an almost perfect cutoff now, and a great light spread. both high and low beams are awesome, and i don't blind anyone.

just figured i'd update!

-shaeff

 

[mkIIIman089]

Pics of said almost perfect cutoff shaeff?

 

[SPD TRP]

it's the little control box that's the issue, though I like it...

I can probably rewire the high beam indicator pretty easily...

All this time I thought it was the bulb.

I'm gonna try something.

Let you know of my findings.

Wayne

 

[SPD TRP]

Thought maybe if I grouned the passenger side headlight ground on the sealed beam plug it might work, nope.

I will try tying both passenger and driver's side low beam wires together, same for the high beam p/s and d/s wires; then tie into the bi-xenon controller.



Wayne

 

[shaeff]

colin, i'll get some pics.

-shaeff

 

[selfinfliction]

colin, i'll get some pics.

-shaeff

bumpity bump

 

[shaeff]

holy hell, i completely forgot about that! i'll snap some tomorrow.

 

[selfinfliction]

holy hell, i completely forgot about that! i'll snap some tomorrow.

thanks, i was just curious on it, cause the other pics i've seen have wash on them. i love the hid's, but without a good cutoff, even a small bit of wash is not cool (thinking of me being on the other side of the lights)

 

[bountykilla0118]

pink dog:biglaugh: still no pics?

 

[AF1JZ]

This might probably be the best option like HIDPlanet said earlier in this thread if you don't mind not having high beams. It is designed to use a D2S bulb and it will block the lower portion of the bulb, in turn less glare.

 

[shaeff]

damn, sorry guys, i've just been wicked busy. trying to take advantage of the 40* winter weather to get some work done to the car. want it done for summer!

i put my camera in my truck just a few min ago, so i should remember to snap some pics when it gets dark as long as the snow holds off.

 

[Clueless]

this looks like a lot of work... :1zhelp:

 

[Ckanderson]

This might probably be the best option like HIDPlanet said earlier in this thread if you don't mind not having high beams. It is designed to use a D2S bulb and it will block the lower portion of the bulb, in turn less glare.

The bulbs that come in the kit I sell have this sheild already installed. :sarcasm:

 

[spipedong]

This might probably be the best option like HIDPlanet said earlier in this thread if you don't mind not having high beams. It is designed to use a D2S bulb and it will block the lower portion of the bulb, in turn less glare.

I use these shields in my setup.

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