H beam vs. I beam

Supadeviljuice

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Jul 3, 2008
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From what I understand, a connecting rod is put to it's greatest test under tensile loads and not compressive force. Does anyone know which connecting rod design, H-beam or I-beam, performs best under said conditions?
 

osofast7m

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Apr 22, 2008
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I have Pauter rods and they have an I beam design. The tensile strength of the billet material used to make them is 190K; someone correct me if I am wrong. However when I purchased these rods I was more concerned with the fasterners that were attaching them to the crank. A system is only as strong as it's weakest link, be sure to get connecting rod bolts with at least 190K of tensile strength otherwise you will always be prone to mechanical failure. Hope this helps and good luck!

Khris
 

figgie

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Mar 30, 2005
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Supadeviljuice;1085299 said:
From what I understand, a connecting rod is put to it's greatest test under tensile loads and not compressive force. Does anyone know which connecting rod design, H-beam or I-beam, performs best under said conditions?


They both do there job correctly given a correct design.

Basically the rods main job at high rpm and power is to keep the piston from launching itself into high orbit as that is where the most force is exherted of a non-slowing piston.
 

adampecush

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May 11, 2006
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osofast7m;1085374 said:
be sure to get connecting rod bolts with at least 190K of tensile strength otherwise you will always be prone to mechanical failure. Hope this helps and good luck!

Khris

no, you want the bolts to have equivalent or greater load carrying capacity than the portion of the rod with the smallest cross-section.

for example:
if the rod x-section is 1" square (ie, it can support 190,000 lbs)
and your combined bolt x-section is 0.5" square, you want a minimum bolt strength of 380 ksi.
 

Supadeviljuice

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So in a practical sense, fasteners on high quality rods are the biggest worry. Cool deal. I have eagles w/ ARP's, so I imagine my weakest link is definitely not my rods. :icon_wink
 

GrimJack

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Do you really want tougher bolts than rods? Wouldn't that make your point of failure be the rod itself, rather than a bolt?

I always try to set things up so that the cheapest part to replace fails first...
 

starscream5000

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I don't think you'll have to worry about breaking one of the Eagle, Pauter, Crower rods first anyways Grim unless something went horribly wrong with the motor...
 

adampecush

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GrimJack;1085727 said:
Do you really want tougher bolts than rods? Wouldn't that make your point of failure be the rod itself, rather than a bolt?

I always try to set things up so that the cheapest part to replace fails first...

Have you ever seen or experienced a rod bolt failure? If you break a rod bolt, you certainly won't be re-using the rod.
 

GrimJack

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adampecush;1085735 said:
Have you ever seen or experienced a rod bolt failure? If you break a rod bolt, you certainly won't be re-using the rod.
Come to think of it, I don't think so... I've seen lots of failed rods, but I can't recall seeing a failed rod bolt.

I don't suppose there is anything connected to the crank that you can get to fail gracefully under load.
 

need new tires

rubber slinger
Nov 10, 2005
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p1085766_1.jpg

p1085766_2.jpg


or just put in the stockers.........
p1085766_3.jpg



rule of thumb over 500 whp go forged for the reliability. i know others have done much more on stock internals but my crowers and je's help me sleep at night

-shane
 

92nsx

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Sep 30, 2005
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need new tires;1085766 said:

Shane, what are the end two rods? I am guessing the first two are Stock toyota, the third is Eagle H beam. one a crower? I like you pic. for referance so I am kind of interested in the end two.