IJ. said:It's gonna help Spool the Windmill sooner for sure!
i know problem is ian brain keeps popping up with cloud thoughts with the word gt47 in it but lets get it running first any thoughts on the latest idea :naughty:
Group A's group a rebuild
- Thread starter group a supra
- Start date
i know problem is ian brain keeps popping up with cloud thoughts with the word gt47 in it but lets get it running first any thoughts on the latest idea :naughty:
Hmmm the even bigger Windmill!
I'd say get it running on the 42 and see just what breaks fix that then think about more HP!
I'd say get it running on the 42 and see just what breaks fix that then think about more HP!
IJ. said:Hmmm the even bigger Windmill!
I'd say get it running on the 42 and see just what breaks fix that then think about more HP!
well that was the plan anyway what about the stroking bit :icon_conf
Have a look at Adjusters thread on his stroker then maybe PM him and ask what he thinks of it!
Personally I wouldn't as it's only 400cc.
Personally I wouldn't as it's only 400cc.
IJ. said:
yeah you might be right ian it was just a floating idea nothing more really but if feedback was do it i was going to look into it in a bit more detail:icon_bigg
It's a LOT of extra $$$ and the 7M strokers are welded stockers not billet cranks like the 2JZ ones so you always have that ? mark.
Last edited:
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
IJ's right, the stroker "kit" for the 7MGTE is a welded stock forged steel crank.
Crankshaftspecialist.com does the work. Starting with a stock 6M crank (I supose they could do the 7M one, but why start with a heavy crank?) They use a submerged arc welder, and add material to the rod journals on the outer edges. The crank is then re-ground for 327 SBC rod journals in a 97.5mm throw. (V/s stock of 91mm.) I suppose you could have it even larger, but you really don't have much left of the oil pump mount at this point, and every mm you take here, adds up to less material on the oil pump mount, and oil pump drive shaft too. Defiant has gone to 101mm, but has an external oil pump as a result. Your also going to run into clearance problems at the bottem of the cyc. bores, and going much larger is going to require even deeper cuts into them to clear the shoulders of the rods.
I reccomend if your going this route, deal with Crankshaft specialist directly. Flatlander is run by a true butt nugget, and he really does not save you much money. The vendors will deal directly with you. I'd start out getting the rod journals hard chromed from the start as well. Be advised that my first crank "relaxed" after about 350 miles, but it may have been due to some wicked detonation. (30+psi on pump gas..by the shop on that motor before I got my hands on it, the mechanic took it out for a little spin...)
The rods I used are from Pauter Machine. Absolutely the best rods I've ever come across for the money. They are 6.0" long, and prices are reassonable as they for a SBC V8. (IF you ask, you can use Honda pins, smaller and lighter, and very strong, or Chevy ones, or Toyota ones, just make sure ROSS is on the same page as Pauter, or your going to be in the same boat I ended up in due to Flatlander/Phil's screw up.)
Pistons are ROSS, custom pin height, mine need a seperate oil ring "floor" since the pin bore is into the oil ring. Pistons are drilled to force scraped oil to the pin bore, and coated with thermal dispersant on the underside, molydisulfied on the skirts, and thermal barrier on the crown. Size is 84mm IIRC. You can go to 85.5mm, but the bore walls become quite thin, but HKS sells the 85.5mm pistons with no problems from what I've found.
Machined the block in a mill to get all the clearances for the rods. It took about 8 hours the first time, but the second time it was 3 because we knew where to cut better.
Make sure you install and clearance your oil pump drive shaft. It will be hit by the rod shoulders, but turning it down in some locations slightly is easy on a lathe.
Final thing is if I did this again, I'd get longer skirts on the pistons, and I'd have them cut the sides by the pins to reduce piston weight somewhat since that area is not a thrust area anyway.
Piston to wall clearance is at 4.5 thousands on my car, and they still slap when cold. I'd go to 3mm this next time with the coatings. ***I believe the coatings are keeping the pistons cooler, so they don't expand as much, so no need for the "loose" fit.)
Bearings are easy.
327 Chevy for the rods from Clevite.
Stock, or Clevite Toyota for the mains.
Used ARP studs for the crank and head.
Rods come with awesome bolts themselves.
Now, how does it run? How's over 470lbs of tourqe at 18psi sound? This is on a 60-1 bolt on T4 setup. With a larger turbo, it should be even better. (9:1 CR and about 3.24L of displacement.) Ultimate HP is not really much better at 420rwhp at the same 18psi, but driveablility around town is very nice with great tourqe from 1000rpm up. (Seriously you can pull from 5th gear at 30mph, down around 1000rpm, and it will pull away smoothly.) Best part is my old stock displacment motor was laggy with this turbo, not bad, but it was laggy. Now it's like being on a stock CT again. Instant spool, and power, the pressure goes positive almost as soon as you step on it, and above 2000 is starting to build boost. Power peaks at about 4200, sometimes sooner depending on the loading of the engine/car. I'm tempted to go with a GT40 on this engine as I think it would be the ultimate street setup with a good balance of low end tourqe and top end power.
That being said, next time around, I'm going with a LS6 engine. More displacemnt, and less development hassels. (And put the turbo in the rear, where the muffler now resides.) Can we say 1500hp boys and girls....? LOL
Crankshaftspecialist.com does the work. Starting with a stock 6M crank (I supose they could do the 7M one, but why start with a heavy crank?) They use a submerged arc welder, and add material to the rod journals on the outer edges. The crank is then re-ground for 327 SBC rod journals in a 97.5mm throw. (V/s stock of 91mm.) I suppose you could have it even larger, but you really don't have much left of the oil pump mount at this point, and every mm you take here, adds up to less material on the oil pump mount, and oil pump drive shaft too. Defiant has gone to 101mm, but has an external oil pump as a result. Your also going to run into clearance problems at the bottem of the cyc. bores, and going much larger is going to require even deeper cuts into them to clear the shoulders of the rods.
I reccomend if your going this route, deal with Crankshaft specialist directly. Flatlander is run by a true butt nugget, and he really does not save you much money. The vendors will deal directly with you. I'd start out getting the rod journals hard chromed from the start as well. Be advised that my first crank "relaxed" after about 350 miles, but it may have been due to some wicked detonation. (30+psi on pump gas..by the shop on that motor before I got my hands on it, the mechanic took it out for a little spin...)
The rods I used are from Pauter Machine. Absolutely the best rods I've ever come across for the money. They are 6.0" long, and prices are reassonable as they for a SBC V8. (IF you ask, you can use Honda pins, smaller and lighter, and very strong, or Chevy ones, or Toyota ones, just make sure ROSS is on the same page as Pauter, or your going to be in the same boat I ended up in due to Flatlander/Phil's screw up.)
Pistons are ROSS, custom pin height, mine need a seperate oil ring "floor" since the pin bore is into the oil ring. Pistons are drilled to force scraped oil to the pin bore, and coated with thermal dispersant on the underside, molydisulfied on the skirts, and thermal barrier on the crown. Size is 84mm IIRC. You can go to 85.5mm, but the bore walls become quite thin, but HKS sells the 85.5mm pistons with no problems from what I've found.
Machined the block in a mill to get all the clearances for the rods. It took about 8 hours the first time, but the second time it was 3 because we knew where to cut better.
Make sure you install and clearance your oil pump drive shaft. It will be hit by the rod shoulders, but turning it down in some locations slightly is easy on a lathe.
Final thing is if I did this again, I'd get longer skirts on the pistons, and I'd have them cut the sides by the pins to reduce piston weight somewhat since that area is not a thrust area anyway.
Piston to wall clearance is at 4.5 thousands on my car, and they still slap when cold. I'd go to 3mm this next time with the coatings. ***I believe the coatings are keeping the pistons cooler, so they don't expand as much, so no need for the "loose" fit.)
Bearings are easy.
327 Chevy for the rods from Clevite.
Stock, or Clevite Toyota for the mains.
Used ARP studs for the crank and head.
Rods come with awesome bolts themselves.
Now, how does it run? How's over 470lbs of tourqe at 18psi sound? This is on a 60-1 bolt on T4 setup. With a larger turbo, it should be even better. (9:1 CR and about 3.24L of displacement.) Ultimate HP is not really much better at 420rwhp at the same 18psi, but driveablility around town is very nice with great tourqe from 1000rpm up. (Seriously you can pull from 5th gear at 30mph, down around 1000rpm, and it will pull away smoothly.) Best part is my old stock displacment motor was laggy with this turbo, not bad, but it was laggy. Now it's like being on a stock CT again. Instant spool, and power, the pressure goes positive almost as soon as you step on it, and above 2000 is starting to build boost. Power peaks at about 4200, sometimes sooner depending on the loading of the engine/car. I'm tempted to go with a GT40 on this engine as I think it would be the ultimate street setup with a good balance of low end tourqe and top end power.
That being said, next time around, I'm going with a LS6 engine. More displacemnt, and less development hassels. (And put the turbo in the rear, where the muffler now resides.) Can we say 1500hp boys and girls....? LOL
greg you have made my mind up i'm gonna stick with normal cc as at this rate i'll never get to drive the car
cheers
cheers
IJ. said:Well look what the cat dragged in
thanks ian nice to know where i stand in the rank of things :biglaugh:
ROFLMAO! now don't be like that Steve the cat's choosy what and who it drags ingroup a supra said:
!
IJ. said:ROFLMAO! now don't be like that Steve the cat's choosy what and who it drags in
it must be a sabre tooth tiger to drag supras in here
they aint light now are they
as for who must be blind puttin me in here :biglaugh:
Time for more details Steve, stuff I've never asked like is your car one of the genuine GrpA's if so what's it's history and where did ya get it?
IJ. said:
no my car was a uk 90 spec turbo bought it in 1997 as a mint car with history and 44k on clock still only has 65k now but aquired all engine parts of an ex trd man who happened to also be md for motec europe
Ahhh with ya now Steve!
It was bordering on sacrilegious if you were indeed hacking up a genuine GrpA!
It was bordering on sacrilegious if you were indeed hacking up a genuine GrpA
!
IJ. said:Ahhh with ya now Steve!
It was bordering on sacrilegious if you were indeed hacking up a genuine GrpA
if were works car i would have retired as i would be very rich as only 11 were built and two remain
but there are as far as i am aware only 2 grpa engined road cars in the world mine is one and the other is over in your part of the world