Got my built 7m running last night!! couple questions. Vid. on post 66

jdub

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Yep...that's mine ;)

Seth made that FFIM and he uses the same TB on his as well.

An 80mm will easily handle a GT35/37...I'm looking at the T04Z or GT40R. Not that I would use the 42R, I'd go 90mm if I did.
 

jdub

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Seth got it for me...it was the same as the eBay price at the time. Mine is identical to the one you showed in post #96.
 

92nsx

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For a update on this thread:
I sent the ECU and TPS's out to JJ and he just got done checking them out, and both checked out GOOD. He even hardwired the TPS to the ECU and it was happy with no codes!!!!. I just doubled checked E2 and it is good. 1.4 ohms form TPS to ECU. May a trip out to Cail, fixed the ECU or TPS, LOL. Any way's right now I am wating for them to show back up in the mail so I can hook them back up and see what happens.

If anyone has any other ideas feel free to post it.
 

annoyingrob

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Here's what I want you do do when you get the ECU and TPS back.

-Insert a small wire, or strip the insulation back so you can measure E2 while it's plugged into the TPS

-With the ECU and TPS installed, turn the key to on.

-Measure the voltage between E2 at the TPS, and the battery negative. You SHOULD have 0v. If you're getting anything else, like 0.5v or something, then you have a problem with your grounds.

-Measure the voltage between VCC and the battery ground too (with the ECU on, and TPS connected. It should read very close to 5V.

If either if these signals are off, then you are effectively scaling the signal that the TPS is sending the ECU. If this scaled signal falls too low, your ECU throws a code.

Then, measure the voltage between E1 and the battery ground, then E2 and the battery ground at the ECU, while the ECU is plugged in, and on.

What I believe is happening is that somewhere, something is pulling your ground (or 0v to keep figgy happy) up a little bit, maybe to 0.5v or something. If the TPS was originally sending the ECU a 500mv signal, now all of the sudden the ground that the ECU is referencing at is at 400mv, the ECU thinks the TPS is actually sending a 100mv signal, and throws a code.

does this make sense to you at all?
 

92nsx

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First a update :). well I recived the ECU back form JJ and everything checked out good!! So I hooked everything back up and...........same idle problem (revs on its own from 1000 rpm's to 2000 rpm's) but code 41 dose not show up!!
Code 41 fixed :)
But now there is a code 52 showing up, lol. Knock sensor crap.


Ok Rob here are your readings:
I put a small wire(28 agw) wire in on E2 at the tps and with the key on there was a reading recorded of .008 vdc (8 ma)

VC to E2 is 4.99 vdc with TPS connected.

E1 to battery ground has a reading of .005 and E2 to battery ground has a reading of.006.

Here is the video again to maybe spark some ideas.
http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc231/92nsx/?action=view&current=S5002345.flv
 

figgie

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vacuum

check cam overlap. on our turbo cars you should ZERO overlap on each of the exhaust to intake stroke. Yes that means deviating from cam cards.

that surgin,. what happens when you completly block off the IAC from the picture? technically that surging should stop.
 

92nsx

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Ok next I will work on the valve over lap, as for a vacuum leak, if there is one it can not be found. I have already been threw 2 cans of starting fluid, and tripled checked every hose in the engine bay. I have also blocked off my vacuum block (so nothing gets vacuum) and it changes nothing. As for TPS needing adjustment, unless some one can prove JJ is wrong, I am going with what the ecu is giving me for mv and 384 mv, the ECU is happy with.

As for when I block off the IAC with my finger it dose nothing!! It still reves as it likes. I noticed yersterday when I pulled the supra out of the garage, the idle was fluctuating for the first 5-7 sec. then it was at high idle (2000 rpm's) and stayed there for about 1 min. Almost like when it has a higher idle to warm up quicker. but after 1 min or so it goes back to the up and down thing.
 

jetjock

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Your TPS is fine. The code 51 activity you PMed me about proves that, as does a closed VTA of 384 mv. That's a bit high but well within what the ECU needs to be happy. Fwiw if you block the ISC hose and the PCV port on the TB the engine should die. If it doesn't you either have a leak or the throttle plate isn't fully closed...
 

92nsx

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^^^^thank you JJ.

The TB is closed as much as it can, it doesn’t completely close on the one side, since it was a "custom piece o-crap" TB I received from tubbie.

JJ, this also gave me another idea, I am also going to block off the TB completely with some tick plastic I have. Wrap the plastic around the TB, reinstall the intercooler coupler over it, and tighten it down. This way NO air can get past the TB and everything needs to go through the ISC.
 

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jdub

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Dude - you really need to replace that TB per our previous series of posts ;)
You will never be able to get it to work with that gap.
 

annoyingrob

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92nsx;1157584 said:
Ok Rob here are your readings:
I put a small wire(28 agw) wire in on E2 at the tps and with the key on there was a reading recorded of .008 vdc (8 mV)

VC to E2 is 4.99 vdc with TPS connected.

E1 to battery ground has a reading of .005 and E2 to battery ground has a reading of.006.

Well that's all very good. Looks like your TPS is working fine now anyways.
 

92nsx

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Yes, at the moment the TPS seams to work fine. The ride to china must have some how fixed it. Sorry I didn't get time last night to work on the poopra. I finished sheetrocking the garage so this winter it is easier to heat, and then fall garage cleaning ensued. LOL
 

92nsx

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^^^^ YES it dose, LOL. Before to much more troubleshooting the TB is going to be replaced, so this thread might go dormant again. :( Thank you Rob for the TS tips on flashchat.