Furious But Lazy 7M owner who gave Up.
- Thread starter Turbo Habanero
- Start date
May your friend rest in peace Jordan. But I'd get rid of your efans, idk how you lasted this long in Arizona. I ran my mishi fans for one drive and I over heated on a November day in Utah.
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Sent From My HTC One S using Tapatalk 2
thats right i for got your on stock rad again, another thing is the FAL fans are over 1" thick so think of that being gone and more core. and 2.5" - 3" is much difference in diameter (1/4 of an inch a side more). so im betting there is more than enough room for a thicker core....ive done itAlbert;1922138 said:
i had FAL fans a CX rad and 2.5 IC piping with room to spare
also sorry about your pup bro
maybe it's just preference but i'm gonna stick with my efans... i haven't had any issues with overheating once in my jz 87 or current 89 (couple summers of driving... the e fans i had were the cheap ones that come with the mishimoto rad. Flexalites with the controller should work as good if not better.
Turbo Habanero;1922124 said:
should have gave him a steak before he went
... I did that for a couple of my dogs....
So second gear started acting up today. Its not locking in if you don't pay attention and make sure its in. But only part time. And it doesnt really pop out vs its just not going in. No grinding
Also today in the az heat noticed the efans were not doing a great job keeping the car cool.
It normally sits just below half on the gauge.
Today it was alittle higher during the heat.
About halfway and alittle above on the gauge.
Also today in the az heat noticed the efans were not doing a great job keeping the car cool.
It normally sits just below half on the gauge.
Today it was alittle higher during the heat.
About halfway and alittle above on the gauge.
Plau000;1922513 said:
no reservoir tank yet. he's running only on water which can guarantee the combination is causing the over heating. he just showed up so lets see what we can figure out.
one good thing is it flushed out all that nasty green coolant that was in there.
Albert;1922138 said:
So 2JZGE (N/A) clutch fan is the thinnest clutch fan that can be ran on 1JZ swapped MKIII Supra's?
Which blade do you run with this? Or just 2JZGE blade as well?
I dont get this car.
So we bled the clutch today and fixed the knock sensor wire.
But upon leaving I still cant get the in and out of reverse without forcing it.
Same goes for driving around town at low speeds for all gears. But sometimes it goes in no problem.
2nd gear decided on the way home it was not gonna stay in gear anymore also.. I have not rapped this trans and it worked fine when george had it.
Im starting to wonder about my clutch plate. Because when we tried to slide it on the spline with grease it didnt want to go on. But georges clutch plate slid back and forth fine.
So we bled the clutch today and fixed the knock sensor wire.
But upon leaving I still cant get the in and out of reverse without forcing it.
Same goes for driving around town at low speeds for all gears. But sometimes it goes in no problem.
2nd gear decided on the way home it was not gonna stay in gear anymore also.. I have not rapped this trans and it worked fine when george had it.
Im starting to wonder about my clutch plate. Because when we tried to slide it on the spline with grease it didnt want to go on. But georges clutch plate slid back and forth fine.
I remember reading you've got to double clutch into reverse with the MC kit. Don't know about the other issues though.
AbsoluteSpeed;1922599 said:
Trans is stock. And no matter how many times I pump the clutch it has to be forced into reverse
If second isn't staying, regardless it sound like the thrust washer.
Does it go into gears easy with the car off? If so its something keeping the clutch engaged.
Next test, put it in gear and keep the clutch down if it starts to kill the motor you know you have a hydraulic leak. Check the back of the firewall for leakage, and the slave leaking out of the seal (pull the boot off)
Last, make sure there's no excess play in the clutch pedal when your going to press down on it, like misadjusted or something loose causing slop. You can adjust it out if need be.
If its none of that its something clutch related either the pp or disk.
Does it go into gears easy with the car off? If so its something keeping the clutch engaged.
Next test, put it in gear and keep the clutch down if it starts to kill the motor you know you have a hydraulic leak. Check the back of the firewall for leakage, and the slave leaking out of the seal (pull the boot off)
Last, make sure there's no excess play in the clutch pedal when your going to press down on it, like misadjusted or something loose causing slop. You can adjust it out if need be.
If its none of that its something clutch related either the pp or disk.
Car goes into gear if car is off.
Car does not studder or die in any gear if clutch is in.
There is alittle slop at the beginning of clutch pedal clutch has to be pushed to the floor for engagement.
Also the clutch is very light and easy compared to all of my buddys supra's with 6pucks and act clutches.
Car does not studder or die in any gear if clutch is in.
There is alittle slop at the beginning of clutch pedal clutch has to be pushed to the floor for engagement.
Also the clutch is very light and easy compared to all of my buddys supra's with 6pucks and act clutches.